I have to replace 1 injector on the drivers side. Do I need to replace the valve cover gasket also? Do I need to replace the harness, like you most likely have to do with the glow plugs?
Dub976
As far as parts all you need is the injector you can reuse the valve cover gasket. Special tools you will need a T 30 and T 40 and torque wrench
Thanks I've read up and watched videos of how to do it. Nobody ever mentions anything about the gasket
Replacement Instructions:
6.0L injector replacement is not extremely difficult and does not usually require special tools, but is only recommended for those with at least a minimum of mechanical training. It does require strict attention to the details mentioned below - Please read the following to avoid common errors.
EVERY time an injector is removed / replaced the copper tip washer and o-rings MUST be replaced. Be sure not to install two copper washers (Ensure the old one did not stay in the head.) CAUTION: The seal between the tip of the injector (where the copper tip washer contacts the head) is very critical. Make sure this area is clean, that only one washer is installed, and that the injector retaining bolt is properly torqued. If a leak occurs in this area, combustion gases will pass up the side of the injector and burn out the lower injector o-ring. This, in turn, will allow fuel into the cylinder which, in a worst-case scenario, can cause hydro-locking and engine damage. This is NOT a warrantable condition.
Book time for a single injector replacement on a pickup is 1.6 hours with additional injectors on that side paying 0.2 hours each. Vans are much more difficult and replacing an entire set can consume 8 hours.
Owners of 2004.5 and newer trucks should consider replacing the standpipe and dummy plug seals while the valve covers are off - leaks at these locations are a common cause of hard hot starting. (See related items below.)
Torque on the injector retaining bolt is very critical! Early build trucks with a T40 retaining bolt require 24ft-lbs. Later trucks with T45 retaining bolt require 26 ft-lbs.
'Quick' Removal /Installation Guide (NOT a substitute for your manual):
Remove valve cover
Early build trucks (before 2004.25) will have a tubular style oil rail that requires a special tool to disconnect the supply line from the oil rail (such as OTC 6594). In most cases it is not actually necessary to disconnect the rail. You can gently move it around to clear the injector as needed.
Later build trucks require removal of the high pressure oil standpipe that delivers oil to the 'wavy' design oil rail. The standpipes require an allen wrench for removal.
Remove the 8 bolts that retain the high pressure oil rail and pull straight up to remove.
Inspect the oil inlet area of the injectors for metal shavings which indicate high pressure oil pump failure in process. If shavings are found, the high pressure oil pump must be replaced and the system flushed or failure of the new injectors will occur in very short time. Also note that if the tops of any injectors are broken off the cause is insufficient fuel pressure or air in the fuel and that this issue must be corrected to prevent short-term reoccurrence.
After disconnecting the electrical connector, use a 19mm 12 point chrome socket to push the remaining portion of the connector body out of the rocker housing.
Loosen the torx bolt that holds the injector in place. Be sure to use a medium length torx bit to avoid making contact with the solenoid on the injector and breaking it off. Unscrewing the injector hold down bolt will unseat the injector - do not use air tools, and do not pry on the injector coils which will damage them. Also, be sure the copper tip gasket does not stay in the head.
Before installing the injector be sure that the injector cup in the cylinder head is perfectly clean, particularly the tip gasket and o-ring contact areas. Lubricate the o-rings with engine oil before installation.
Before tightening the injector hold down bolt, clean any oil out of the bolt hole. Oil remaining in the bolt hole will cause the bolt to tighten before the injector is seated resulting in catastrophic failure. Remember that injector hold down bolt torque is very critical.
Lubricate the inlet tubes on the high pressure oil rail with engine oil and seat the rail by hand before tightening bolts. CAUTION: Not seating the oil rail properly when installing the rail back on the injectors is the #1 installation error. If the rail is not installed with finesse, the injector inlet seal will be damaged and a high pressure oil leak will result, ultimately causing a hard hot start condition. Seating the rail properly is not difficult, just be careful to work it into the injectors slowly and keep it square so the seals are not damaged. Do not use force!
Changing the engine oil, oil filter, and primary and secondary fuel filters is recommended.
Be aware that the engine will be somewhat difficult to start since air has been introduced into the oil and fuel systems. Upon starting, the engine will run rough for some time until all of the air has purged.
This copy pasted from AccurateDiesel
6.0L injector replacement is not extremely difficult and does not usually require special tools, but is only recommended for those with at least a minimum of mechanical training. It does require strict attention to the details mentioned below - Please read the following to avoid common errors.
EVERY time an injector is removed / replaced the copper tip washer and o-rings MUST be replaced. Be sure not to install two copper washers (Ensure the old one did not stay in the head.) CAUTION: The seal between the tip of the injector (where the copper tip washer contacts the head) is very critical. Make sure this area is clean, that only one washer is installed, and that the injector retaining bolt is properly torqued. If a leak occurs in this area, combustion gases will pass up the side of the injector and burn out the lower injector o-ring. This, in turn, will allow fuel into the cylinder which, in a worst-case scenario, can cause hydro-locking and engine damage. This is NOT a warrantable condition.
Book time for a single injector replacement on a pickup is 1.6 hours with additional injectors on that side paying 0.2 hours each. Vans are much more difficult and replacing an entire set can consume 8 hours.
Owners of 2004.5 and newer trucks should consider replacing the standpipe and dummy plug seals while the valve covers are off - leaks at these locations are a common cause of hard hot starting. (See related items below.)
Torque on the injector retaining bolt is very critical! Early build trucks with a T40 retaining bolt require 24ft-lbs. Later trucks with T45 retaining bolt require 26 ft-lbs.
'Quick' Removal /Installation Guide (NOT a substitute for your manual):
Remove valve cover
Early build trucks (before 2004.25) will have a tubular style oil rail that requires a special tool to disconnect the supply line from the oil rail (such as OTC 6594). In most cases it is not actually necessary to disconnect the rail. You can gently move it around to clear the injector as needed.
Later build trucks require removal of the high pressure oil standpipe that delivers oil to the 'wavy' design oil rail. The standpipes require an allen wrench for removal.
Remove the 8 bolts that retain the high pressure oil rail and pull straight up to remove.
Inspect the oil inlet area of the injectors for metal shavings which indicate high pressure oil pump failure in process. If shavings are found, the high pressure oil pump must be replaced and the system flushed or failure of the new injectors will occur in very short time. Also note that if the tops of any injectors are broken off the cause is insufficient fuel pressure or air in the fuel and that this issue must be corrected to prevent short-term reoccurrence.
After disconnecting the electrical connector, use a 19mm 12 point chrome socket to push the remaining portion of the connector body out of the rocker housing.
Loosen the torx bolt that holds the injector in place. Be sure to use a medium length torx bit to avoid making contact with the solenoid on the injector and breaking it off. Unscrewing the injector hold down bolt will unseat the injector - do not use air tools, and do not pry on the injector coils which will damage them. Also, be sure the copper tip gasket does not stay in the head.
Before installing the injector be sure that the injector cup in the cylinder head is perfectly clean, particularly the tip gasket and o-ring contact areas. Lubricate the o-rings with engine oil before installation.
Before tightening the injector hold down bolt, clean any oil out of the bolt hole. Oil remaining in the bolt hole will cause the bolt to tighten before the injector is seated resulting in catastrophic failure. Remember that injector hold down bolt torque is very critical.
Lubricate the inlet tubes on the high pressure oil rail with engine oil and seat the rail by hand before tightening bolts. CAUTION: Not seating the oil rail properly when installing the rail back on the injectors is the #1 installation error. If the rail is not installed with finesse, the injector inlet seal will be damaged and a high pressure oil leak will result, ultimately causing a hard hot start condition. Seating the rail properly is not difficult, just be careful to work it into the injectors slowly and keep it square so the seals are not damaged. Do not use force!
Changing the engine oil, oil filter, and primary and secondary fuel filters is recommended.
Be aware that the engine will be somewhat difficult to start since air has been introduced into the oil and fuel systems. Upon starting, the engine will run rough for some time until all of the air has purged.
This copy pasted from AccurateDiesel
Might as well do the Stand pipe and dummy plug upgrade on that side while your in there too...
If you don’t have the injectors yet go this route
https://www.accuratediesel.com/6-0l-powerstroke-injector-brand-new-not-remanufactured.html
https://www.accuratediesel.com/6-0l-powerstroke-injector-brand-new-not-remanufactured.html
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