I go to start my truck and i have to cycle the key repeatedly. Even when I do that it takes a while of rolling over and sputtering to actually start. It smokes a bit when trying to start smelling like raw fuel. Once it starts if I hold it around 1500 and let it warm up it runs fine. If I let off and it drops below 1000 it will die. It’s around 70 degrees out so I don’t think it’s too cold. I replaced the fuel bowl heater and just changed the oil being told that it was a possible issue with the oil being too thick. Nothing I have done is making it any better. It seems to be getting progressively worse. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
DDDrill
First get a good scanner and bluetooth reader, ForScan Lite is a good choice and is likely the most common and powerful for diagnosing the truck.
Second what oil and filter did you use. Proper oil is key. Use Ford spec oil only. Be extremely careful with additives in the oil as most are not good for the engine.
Third.. Just guessing but maybe leaky/ tired injectors and just time for new. (emphasize the guessing) Please do not guess. Get the reader. Then we can walk you through some trouble shooting.
Second what oil and filter did you use. Proper oil is key. Use Ford spec oil only. Be extremely careful with additives in the oil as most are not good for the engine.
Third.. Just guessing but maybe leaky/ tired injectors and just time for new. (emphasize the guessing) Please do not guess. Get the reader. Then we can walk you through some trouble shooting.
How 'bout some more info??
Year?
Mileage?
Mods?
Original Injectors?
Acts the same when the engine is Cold ~vs~ Hot?
Try this, 2-3hrs before you're going to start for the first time, plug in the Block Heater. Does that make it start normally?
Also, if the "cycle the key repeatedly" is associated with the WTS light going off, you can stop that
Just leave the key On for a while as the Glow Plugs continue to run long after that light goes out...
Year?
Mileage?
Mods?
Original Injectors?
Acts the same when the engine is Cold ~vs~ Hot?
Try this, 2-3hrs before you're going to start for the first time, plug in the Block Heater. Does that make it start normally?
Also, if the "cycle the key repeatedly" is associated with the WTS light going off, you can stop that
Just leave the key On for a while as the Glow Plugs continue to run long after that light goes out...
If your injectors have over 300K on them then it's acting like high mileage injectors can....
Do that Plug In test, see if it makes a big difference, if it does, then it's a good indication that the injectors are the problem.
Good Read on Injector issues -> https://swampsmotorsports.com/files/7.3LInjectorDiagnostic.pdf
My usual scanner advice;
If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.
To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/
Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.
www.powerstroke.org
Do that Plug In test, see if it makes a big difference, if it does, then it's a good indication that the injectors are the problem.
Good Read on Injector issues -> https://swampsmotorsports.com/files/7.3LInjectorDiagnostic.pdf
My usual scanner advice;
If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.
To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/
Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.
Ford SuperDuty Diagnosis on the Cheap
How To: Super Duty Diagnosis on the Cheap! This will be a multi-part write-up, covering how to diagnose, monitor, and run tests on Ford Super Duty Trucks, focusing on the Ford 7.3L Super Duty as that is the truck that I own, but these tools work for all Super Duty Trucks. Warning: Some...
www.powerstroke.org
I pulled the plug to the icp today and there is oil in it. I am going to buy one in the morning and see if that helps at all.
That wouldn't be a good move at ALL...
Most ICP plugs, after 20yrs, are going to have some oil in them, doesn't tell you much. You know what a Genuine Ford/IH ICP costs??? (and you do Not want to waste money on an Aftermarket ICP). You'd spend all that, to save a $30 investment that would confirm an ICP problem, and hope to just Get Lucky and have Guessed where your problem is???
Smarten-Up Dude
Most ICP plugs, after 20yrs, are going to have some oil in them, doesn't tell you much. You know what a Genuine Ford/IH ICP costs??? (and you do Not want to waste money on an Aftermarket ICP). You'd spend all that, to save a $30 investment that would confirm an ICP problem, and hope to just Get Lucky and have Guessed where your problem is???
Smarten-Up Dude
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