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Fuel supply line from fuel tank to chassis. Help

16K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  GETFURIOUS  
#1 ·
I have developed a fuel leak along the chassis. Dropped the midship 37 gal fuel tank and the hose that is leaking is the grey semi hard nylon fuel line with some kind of quick connect fitting at the sender. Ford says NLA as do the Reilly’s, Napa. Can I Substitute a standard rubber fuel line in this location or is the pump in the tank High Pressure? This is kind of a 911 situation as I have a 6000 mi trip I’m beginning in 4 days and I’ve got to get this back up and running now!! HeLP!!!

Ford couldn’t even come up with a part number that I thought represented the part. # 1C3Z-9S278-AA

Bill
 
#2 ·
The fuel pump is mounted on the frame(just under the driver feet area), not in the tank -- so yes a diesel fuel rated rubber hose would be fine -- don't use the cheap hose -- would be a good idea at some point to drop the tanks and clean the in-tank screens
 
owns 2006 Ford F250 Lariat FX4
#3 ·
Hydro

Thank you. So regular rubber fuel line is okay for the supply side as well. Why in the hell did Ford use that damn plastic hose instead of a conventional rubber hose? I’ve been pulling my hair out in clumps all day because of it. Go Figure!

I thought that I read somewhere that the pump was in the tank top and was rated at 150 psi. Maybe that was for the gas engines. IDK.

Ill check the screens tomorrow. Oh and the O ring for the sender is NLA as well.

Bill
 
#4 ·
"Regular rubber fuel hose" used to be decent stuff, but not any more -- I usually use the premium emissions rated hose nowadays, it has an extra layer of reinforcing and seems to hold up against cracking longer -- the nylon hose you have is pretty common, the problem is fittings on the ends -- you can use a hose and clamps for a connector, but you need the metal insert to keep it from collapsing over time -- can also use the brass compression fittings on the nylon hose(need to use the insert)

The machines I work on daily use the nylon line that is over a plastic connector, they can be repaired by heating and stretching the line -- it has a memory and will shrink onto the fitting
 
owns 2006 Ford F250 Lariat FX4
#5 ·
#7 ·
Frustration



I have been having a problem that I THINK I have tracked back to those nylon tubes. I have a 48 gallon steel replacement tank that make the fit even tighter. My truck would start up fine and run great for about 5 miles and then would feel like it was starving for fuel until it would not accelerate at all. I had done the hutch mod years ago so no in tank filters to plug but dropped the tank and there was obvious sediment and crap on the bottom. Took it to a good radiator shop and had it flushed, reinstalled, not better?!?

Drove it to a local DSL shop who said the #8 injector was failing... They have about 170K on them so decided to replace with FFD Stage 1.5, Edge for basic data and code reading, FRX, HPx. Starts up great, runs fine for about 5 miles... Changed the fuel filter and upon shining a bright lite inside, found a ton of MUDDY SLUDGE :surprise: Bought the fuel bowl seal kit and reinstalled, no change. Bought fuel pressure tester and am getting 60psi, UNTIL IT IS UNDER LOAD where it drops to 0 !!! Pulled line to pump and installed tubing into a jug of fuel and it runs great with no pressure drop at all. The issue has to be from the tank to the pump! Dropped tank AGAIN, blew out lines really well this time, took apart and checked all connections and reinstalled. No change!!?! Replaced nylon tubing with new fuel line using OE "quick connects" and reinstalled. NO Change! The tubing is making a hell of an s curve and it may be getting crushed, VERY TIGHT FIT that cannot be seen or felt. Did the exterior jug intake again to confirm and it still does run great when not pulling from the main tank. The angle of the sender fitting is about 7 o'clock and the feed and return lines about 3 o'clock. A 90 degree elbow on 1 end might help but I hate the idea of restricting the line.

Suggestions?
 
#10 ·
I have been having a problem that I THINK I have tracked back to those nylon tubes. I have a 48 gallon steel replacement tank that make the fit even tighter. My truck would start up fine and run great for about 5 miles and then would feel like it was starving for fuel until it would not accelerate at all. I had done the hutch mod years ago so no in tank filters to plug but dropped the tank and there was obvious sediment and crap on the bottom. Took it to a good radiator shop and had it flushed, reinstalled, not better?!?

Drove it to a local DSL shop who said the #8 injector was failing... They have about 170K on them so decided to replace with FFD Stage 1.5, Edge for basic data and code reading, FRX, HPx. Starts up great, runs fine for about 5 miles... Changed the fuel filter and upon shining a bright lite inside, found a ton of MUDDY SLUDGE :surprise: Bought the fuel bowl seal kit and reinstalled, no change. Bought fuel pressure tester and am getting 60psi, UNTIL IT IS UNDER LOAD where it drops to 0 !!! Pulled line to pump and installed tubing into a jug of fuel and it runs great with no pressure drop at all. The issue has to be from the tank to the pump! Dropped tank AGAIN, blew out lines really well this time, took apart and checked all connections and reinstalled. No change!!?! Replaced nylon tubing with new fuel line using OE "quick connects" and reinstalled. NO Change! The tubing is making a hell of an s curve and it may be getting crushed, VERY TIGHT FIT that cannot be seen or felt. Did the exterior jug intake again to confirm and it still does run great when not pulling from the main tank. The angle of the sender fitting is about 7 o'clock and the feed and return lines about 3 o'clock. A 90 degree elbow on 1 end might help but I hate the idea of restricting the line.

Suggestions?
I MISSED THAT PART WHEN I READ IT THE FIRST TIME.....

IN ORDER TO SOLVE THIS ISSUE.....YOU MAY HAVE TO TAKE THE BED OFF.....SO THAT YOU CAN SEE THE ENTIRE FUEL LINE PATH WHILE IT IS INSTALLED.....

IS IT POSSIBLE TO GET A CAMERA OR A CELL PHONE UP THERE TO TAKE A PHOTO AND SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE?....

ONE LAST IDEA.....IF THE LINE IS GETTING CRUSHED / PINCHED WHEN THE TANK IS BOLTED IN PLACE.....YOU MAY HAVE TO PUT A SHIELD OVER THE HOSE OR DIMPLE THE TOP OF THE TANK TO PROTECT OR MAKE SPACE FOR THE FUEL LINE.....
 
#8 ·
ARE YOU USING THE ORIGINAL FUEL PUMP.....OR HAS IT BEEN REPLACED?....

IF IT IS THE ORIGINAL PUMP....IT MAY BE "WEAK" UNDER LOAD.....AND STARVING YOUR TRUCK.....

DO YOU HAVE A PRE-PUMP FILTER SYSTEM INSTALLED?....

GOT ANY PHOTOS?....
 
#9 · (Edited)
The pump was replaced many years ago and I was about to order one, but cannot keep throwing parts at the truck! Running low on funds I had scrimped on the UVCG harnesses so had to go back in. I replaced the IPR after throwing a 1211 and was worried about the HPOP but realized I need to slow down and ISOLATE THE PROBLEM!

If I am getting 60psi after max acceleration when not drawing off the 47 gallon tank, in my mind the problem is from the tank to the pump.

I am not currently running a pre-pump filter. I'll look for some pix. I haven't been taking many pictures due to the fact I am not sure what I am doing and very much figuring it out as I go.
 
#11 ·
I just tried jamming my phone in there but can't see a thing. With the tank down about 12" you can so when I do that I will take a few pix. The C channel of the frame shields most of it. This fuel tank has a cutout notch about where the lines go and a largish bracket on the bottom of the bed that the tank rests against. Between the slack in the fuel hose needed for the "drop" and the 2 sharp angles of the fittings, I can definitely see how it could kink.

The tank is about 1/3 full so very heavy. I already have a dozen 5 gal jugs of fuel pumped out at the beginning of this saga laying around.

These jinky nylon lines aren't a problem if undisturbed, but after dropping the tank 5 or 6 times it is not much of a surprise to have an issue. The truck is not throwing any relevant codes I do not like the idea of running the engine with NO fuel pressure! A short run up the road and the gauge I am leaving on the fuel bowl reads ZERO? I thought it was broken. I would think it would show at least 5 or 10 to be running...
 
#12 ·
TWO OTHER THINGS THAT I THOUGHT OF.....

MAYBE THE NEW HOSE IS TOO LONG.....AND ONCE THE TANK IS IN PLACE THE HOSE KINKS.....

MOST OF THE FUEL TANKS DON'T GIVE MUCH ROOM TO LET THEM DOWN WITHOUT IMMEDIATELY DISCONNECTING THE FUEL LINES FIRST.....

ALSO.....DID YOU CHECK THE TANK VENT AND THE FUEL CAP.....HAVE YOU TRIED RUNNING THE TRUCK WITH THE CAP OFF TO SEE IF THE FUEL PRESSURE STAYS UP?....