Are you having a problem with high temps? Did you flush the system thoroughly with water after the restore? What coolant is currently in it?

 

Had high EOT hence oil cooler all temps are inline now 7 degree delta 195ect 202eot. Never ECT high temps

flushed quite a bit after restore +, but as I have read through forum it's tough to get all the crap out of system after using that product(shop flushed again before BPD OC install)

Rotella ELC

 

Cavitation on the front cover would put coolant into the oil. Do you have that, otherwise, this seems like a fishing expedition?

The chemical is easy to flush out, the debris left behind is not.

 

Nope no coolant in oil, they freaked me out saying this could mean a new engine if this happens??? Seems dooms day to me?
.

 

Front cover cavitation is not a 6.0L thing but it is with the 6.4L. As mentioned front cover cavitation would put coolant in the oil therefore if your coolant level is not unexplainably dropping I would not waste your money on it at this time. A better reason to pull the water pump is to inspect the pump itself. On rare occasions the impeller may crack and spin freely on the shaft... if your engine temperatures are no longer a concern I would let it rest.

 

What are signs to watch for of cavitation of front cover, now that they have me paranoid?? Is it cataphoric if this happens? I'll be watching for signs like a hawk!!

Previous owner ran straight water from looks of the rust/scale that is/was in system, hence flushing with restore + 2x. New radiator and hoses, new OC and degas bottle.

 

Easy way, is pull the water pump and look at the front engine cover for major pitting -- else wise, it is the coolant in the oil that has been explained already -- but there are other sources for coolant intrusion -- cavitation is not common on the 6.0

 

Pretty simple, that would be coolant in the oil.

If you are paranoid about this, pull or have the water pump pulled and look at the back of the cover.

6.4L cover.

The Ford description

It ain't like the 6.0 has a low coolant pressure history.

 

Changing/inspecting WP sounds to be good maintenance. Reading fan can be a SOB to get off. Any tips and tricks to knock that sucker free when it comes time to do the job. No reason to pay a shop $150 hr to go about that job.

OEM or aftermarket WP if I change that puppy out???

 

It’s not good maintenance ……. Unless you have a coolant in oil issue seen on the dipstick, a leaking water pump, or an over temp issue where the impeller came loose. Otherwise it’s a waste of time and a good water pump o-ring.

If this was a 6.4L, OK.

 

Roger that!!!

Why the shop made it sound oil on coolant was game over for engine.... So this definitely has me super paranoid as you can tell

 

this, what Jack said ^^^^
@jack or a leak out the seal weep hole

I have a wrench set that fits an air hammer -- but other wise put a wrench on the nut and give a tug, it may not be all that tight
Dont forget , turn in the direction of normal rotation, so in the case of the 6.0 to the left

You can use a large blunt punch and give a good rap on the left side of a flat on the clutch nut, to jar it loose

 

Send an oil sample to BlackStone

 

Oil on coolant (in the degas bottle) is a different problem. Typically oil cooler or oil cooler gaskets.

Some aftermarket delete kits are prone to leaking no matter what you do. Not an engineer bone in their body.

Cavitation behind the water pump impeller is a design fault of the impeller, which the 6.4L has. The two OE 6.0 water pump impellers do not, the early generation had too small of a hole in the impeller, which when pressed onto the shaft caused stress and in-service cracking. But both pumps designed by AutoJim (Jim Crider) never had the issue.

 

Thanks for the hand holding I appreciate it. The rusty scale in the system have me super paranoid😂😂 Hopefully the flushing of restore + will solve the issue along with good coolant mixes etc.

mechanic didn't help with his wanting to Sonia exploration looking for issues!