Call the shop that did the work and ask them what part were used. If everything runs fine, you're probably ok for now, just know that if you're replacing one thing (EGR), you'll likely replace more.

Oh, and you might surprise yourself with your abilities....:thumb:

 

Call the shop that did the work and ask them what part were used. ...

Good recommendation. If you have an early '04 truck and the EGR cooler is OEM, you are going to have a stout cooler. That's good. For late '04, I'd be hoping for a hardened aftermarket cooler like a BPD. Other companies make them too, though. I wouldn't want an OEM EGR cooler for the late '04 truck.

Do some research on that K&N filter. Not the best option for the 6.0. ...

That was my first thought. I'd be more concerned about the K&N than the EGR cooler, at the moment.

... The other downfall is of coarse the soot and snot that is now being pumped into your intake. ...

^^^ this. I wanted my EGR system intact for emissions testing concerns, but had no desire for the EGR system to be functional during normal use. So... I installed a hardened EGR cooler and an aluminum spool in place of the EGR valve. It basically acts as a closed valve. You can get the spools on eBay.

My real EGR valve is plugged in and rides in the valley of the engine zip-tied to the back of the intake elbow. This way, I get no crap in the intake but can go legal in under ten minutes.

 

Do some research on that K&N filter. Not the best option for the 6.0. Lots of dusted turbos out there from it. Not bad mouthing K&N as a whole, just their offering for the 6.0.

 

The EGR system is really not doing the engine any favors. The fact that it's recirculating exhaust gases back into the engines intake is the sin. It's hot engine exhaust that is routed through the EGR cooler which at that is 195-200* at best being introduced with the air from intercooler.
It's basically a buzz kill for everything attempting to cool the air before it's in the combustion chamber for the added power from more expansion pressures from the actual combustion. Basically cold air coming into engine expands more from the combustion itself then if it's hotter air temps.

The other downfall is of coarse the soot and snot that is now being pumped into your intake. That alone can build up carbon in the intake and porting of the heads. It can reduce the flow of intake air to a degree from coking up over time.


It's better to not have the EGR system on the engine and that's a well known fact. If you have no emmision testing there it's a good system to kick to the curb.
If you have to run the EGR system using a good fuel additive like diesel kleen or the Ford stuff raises the cetane levels enough to actually help keep the intake and EGR valve much cleaner. I can attest to that being true from my own experience with my first 6.0 that I had the EGR system in it.

Its a system that is better gone if you have no emission testing to deal with. That said the states are coming on line with EPA endorsed smog testing on the diesel powered engines. That is only going to become more rigid as time goes by. Your not going to have any seat of your pants power gains from removing it. But the engine will be more healthy without it.

Decisions decisions.................Tree Hugger or Tree Logger.

 

My EGR is disabled on my truck. I have the EGR cooler welded with 1/2 inch steel so I can pass the visual inspection and I have the EGR valve still hooked up with no codes. I also have a coolant filter with ELC coolant. I have no issues passing a tail pipe emissions here and the sad thing is the inspectors don't even look for the required devices. I had a emission test few months ago and all they did was open the hood and close it. I was surprised that's all they did.

 

So what, the K&N lets too much in and does not do an adequate job filtering the incoming air? What would the recommended replacement?

 

F8Ford & Renegade are correct about the K&N filters short comings. The Donaldson OEM air filter assy is actually one of the things Ford did right with. It is capable of holding 7-8 lbs. of dirt and still flow enough for the engines needs. My truck had a S&B filter assy on it and I had several people on the forum telling me I was much better off with the OEM.
I told them all off, and pointed out to them they don't know squat. After that I took the OEM filter housing setup off one of my brother in laws 6.0 trucks he scrapped and installed into my truck.

The problem is the K&N filter for our truck is very light for the higher CFM flows K&N was looking for. Problem there is the trucks that are in the dusty conditions eat the dirt basically.
The OEM filter is fine for the 450-500HP range but if your going for all the power with bigger injectors and intake etc the aftermarket filters are needed. I know Nick and others are running high flow air filters but K&N isn't one of them. LOL I honestly don't know which high flowing filter is the go to brand, but there are good ones that work well and clean the air properly.
Another issue with the K&N is oil getting on the MAF sensor creating other issues.
I'm sure its ok when properly maintained and not in extreme duty situations.

 

Unless you are making over 500HP or so the OEM air filter is as good as it gets.