It should take a few miles to learn the operating parameters.. how long is a little time?

 

Sounds like a lot of sales pitch.

You should tell us:

• what you were seeing before, and what you are seeing now
• how do you use the truck
• where/what climate is the truck in
• what condition and configuration is the truck in (preferably with pics)

 

17 6.7 powerstroke drw lariat 4x4 60+k miles. Before tuning I was getting 10.1 towing my 10k trailer. After tuning was getting 8 to 9. When I bought the truck I was getting16 combined an 12 to 13 towing. So assumed a delete would atleast get me back to original numbers. Egr cooler removed/ deleted explosive diesel tune sotf 40hp , 80, 125, 200hp. Says cai recommended for 200. Sct c4 tuner. Also can I use an egt sensor off my dpf and get accurate reading with sct or do I have to buy probe. I have the one from motor in it currently cause I couldn’t get the others out. Not home so can’t take pics

 

Why would you get more mpgs? Just from cleaner air? Lots of great reasons egr and dfp have no reason on any engine but silly political mandates, but mpgs I don’t think Is one. I’ve never ran the woke political equipment on any of my trucks and I’ve always had poor mpgs so sorry to say but no mpg gains.

 

Mpg gains due to clogged dpf. I was getting better mpg when I purchased truck. Then mpgs started dropping the more I used it

 

This

This is funny because I have noticed a drop in MPG's as well. I haul a 13,000 5TH wheel and was getting around 11/12 but now it's hard to get 11. I'm not going to delete my truck because I live in that state. But personally I don't think I would ever delete if I moved. To many guys having issues with tunes these days.

 

You're only going to see a gain in MPGs with delete if you REGEN a lot.

 

Good point that I didn’t consider. I deleted mine with 6 miles so never experienced a regen. And I stepped up from a 2006 so I really have no experience with them.

 

Are you reading off the dash? If so, this question is irrelevant.
There are a number of factors that go into it... Has you trans finished its relearn (and did you actually let it do so, usually takes several hundred miles)? Which tune are you running? Towing and performance tunes both have different shift points/tc lockup strategies. Generally guys find the best mpg tunes are somewhere in the middle. If you tow a lot, leave it on a tow tune. A 2% loss is fuel economy is nothing compared to burning up a trans.

Over time deleted trucks do generally save on fuel, but its almost never gonna be a MASSIVE gain. Not having to burn fuel to regen WILL save fuel.

These trucks do actively "learn" as we drive them, when you tune a truck that memory is typically wiped. Its also a bad time of year to talk about fuel economy, winter fuel really skew's the numbers.

On to the millage losses over time, welcome to the maintenance woe's of owning these trucks. There is a lot of really heavy components that all need to spin freely from the motor to the wheels. All of it wears over time... Thats also why people who tune a truck with higher hp tunes tend to start "having problems". At 100k miles there will be things wearing out, all that does is add stress farther up. Tires, brakes, fluid maintenance, bearings, ujoints, accessories bolted to the motor (ac, alternator, etc)................ The list goes on. Loss in fuel economy is the %1 thing that indicates its time for maintenance. If you noticed a drop in fuel economy before tuning, the delete probably isn't your "fix".

 

Tires are a big factor with MPG's. Even stock size tires of different brands will effect millage. I think it has to do with tread design. Crazy has the right idea as some things wear out. This is why I keep up with my maintenance. I only use Motorcraft filters and have only used Motorcraft oil but my dealer has a problem getting oil so I went with Rotella T6. I get my service at the dealer and tell them to inspect everything. So far they do a good job.

 

I saw an immediate 4 mpg increase. But as my mechanic says - "If it's not a full delete, then it's not a delete." So, I would listen to the pros on here and compare if your mechanic took care of all the components and not just the DEF. My truck is also considerably more powerful - it even felt a little froggy on the punch. 2012 F350 Lariat. Best of luck!

 

I did the delete myself. Removed dpf , egr cooler. Debating on k&n cai, still trying to research. Currently running light tow tune. Guys I got tune from told me to run a single tune until my truck got used to being deleted before running sotf. Who knows if that will solve anything. I definitely can feel a difference in pep so I know I’m getting more hp. What are y’all’s thoughts on cai?

 

do yourself a favour get an s&b or afe intake. instead of k&n for your 6.7

 

That’s the other I been looking at but seen some getting worse mpg with s&b. But can’t find anything on 2017 6.7

 

Ok thanks. So u think a 200 hp tune will do better than a 125 hp tune? I hv options 1) stock hp 2) heavy tow 40hp 3) light tow 80 hp 4) street 125 hp 5) race 200. But says race needs cai. I feel like street would need it. Any info or thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

You don't need a CAI for a stock truck. And yes just deleting and adding tunes still qualifies as a "stock" truck when it comes to performance. Chasing the good MPGs dragon is borderline futile, you're driving a an almost 5 ton brick.

 

I know it’s a brick. I’m just trying to get back to original miles. I didn’t buy it for mileage. But ever sense Stupid cheated his way into presidency, everyone is trying to get better mpg

 

Well just an update. I guess my truck just needed a little time to get used to being deleted. I haven’t been thru a full tank yet but looking at my fuel gauge and amount of miles driven I can comfortably say I’m getting atleast a 5 mpg increase. Maybe more

 

Is the plug that the shift on the fly switch is wired to, supposed to be plugged back in or left unplugged

Is the plug that the shift on the fly wired to supposed to be plugged back in or left unplugged?