I see crappy pictures taken with a dirty lens.

If it were me, I’d spend less than a third of that and change the filters again in 500 miles myself to see what I find. I don’t trust dealerships.


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Yea whatever it is, it doesn’t look catastrophic, that’s for sure. My independent mechanic will charge $280 for same work so either way I’m not paying the dealership.

I’m more wondering what the contamination is and where it came from.

I also have dieselsite filter system to install so that should help as well.

 

What fuel do you regularly use, where do you operate the vehicle? That looks like wax (Paraffin) crystallization typically associated with very high cetane fuel (Over 60), cold weather or adding an additive to high cetane fuel. Also associated with Bio Diesel fuels

 

Are you referring to the whiteish buildup on the filter or to the little red specs caught in the fold of the filter in the first pic?

I live in Houston and buy 90% of my fuel from the local Kroger that has probably the highest turnover of fuel in my area.

Primarily I have run Arcoil 6200 (no cetane boost) but have run stanadyne lube and perf (cetane boost) a couple of times in between. I have run Schaeffer’s (some cetane boost) for the past 3 tanks now and have been running it at 2-3x the recommended amount as told to do so by Jody at DP Tuner.

 

Yes, the white buildup looks like waxing while the red specks look like burnt fuel. Waxing is normally a byproduct of the fuel getting cold and reaching its cloud point, then crystallization then gelling. The burnt fuel byproduct typically happens when the injectors get so hot that it starts burning the fuel and excess fuel is returned to the tank. This was a common occurrence in older class VIII diesels with fuel return lines but not very common these days.

Recommendation:

1) Fill up at a reputable retailer; Chevron, Texaco, BP, Shell.
2) Try running 3 tanks of Diesel Kleen at prescribed dosage (Good all around fuel additive and cheap
3) Check primary fuel filter every 500 miles to clear out fuel tank debris.
4) Change and crack/cut/pry open old secondary fuel filter (In the engine bay) and look for fowling/debris that the primary filter may have passed.
5) Your filters should have caught most if not all debris so I do not see a reason to pay $900 to clean fuel lines since you have not stated that performance was influenced or injector codes.
6) Keep an eye on those filters and change frequently until no debris is observed!!!!

 

Yes, the white buildup looks like waxing while the red specks look like burnt fuel. Waxing is normally a byproduct of the fuel getting cold and reaching its cloud point, then crystallization then gelling. The burnt fuel byproduct typically happens when the injectors get so hot that it starts burning the fuel and excess fuel is returned to the tank. This was a common occurrence in older class VIII diesels with fuel return lines but not very common these days.



Recommendation:



1) Fill up at a reputable retailer; Chevron, Texaco, BP, Shell.

2) Try running 3 tanks of Diesel Kleen at prescribed dosage (Good all around fuel additive and cheap

3) Check primary fuel filter every 500 miles to clear out fuel tank debris.

4) Change and crack/cut/pry open old secondary fuel filter (In the engine bay) and look for fowling/debris that the primary filter may have passed.

5) Your filters should have caught most if not all debris so I do not see a reason to pay $900 to clean fuel lines since you have not stated that performance was influenced or injector codes.

6) Keep an eye on those filters and change frequently until no debris is observed!!!!

Thanks again for your continued replies



1)The Kroger gets its fuel from the same distributor as any of the other “reputable” retailers in the area and since more people fill up there than anywhere else around me, I have to assume that they have the freshest fuel with smallest chance of contaminants. My inclination is to stick with them.

2) do you honestly think there is that much difference between additives? Everyone swears by their one choice, but I’ve run 3 different types and have not seen much difference between them. Jody swears by Schaeffer’s and has been using it for over 10yrs.

3) ok

4) ok

5) my independent mechanic said he would charge $280 for cleaning tank and lines. Think it’s worth it for peace of mind?

6) will do




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The 6.7L was designed to run on the ultra low sulfur diesel. I can't see any reason at all to run a fuel additive at 3x the mix ratio amount. The companies who designed these additives already have the negative snake oil perception to fight. Now someone is tell you to run 3x the amount then normal?


I would just skip the fuel treatments for a while it sounds like all the treatments are causing a reaction to the fuel. Diesel is dirty but when you start adding chemicals to it let alone 3X the required amount it is bound to cause some sort of reaction. Once you run a few tanks without any treatment just use what the company recommends per tank/gallon on the mix ratios. I could imagine the stuff isn't cheap at all. You got to remember most of the diesel pickup drivers never use any oil/fuel treatments and just follow a regular maintenance schedule trouble free for hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will stop using additives for a while.

I told the dealer to change the fuel filters and put it back together. I’ll install my diesel site filters this weekend and go on my merry way.

 

Started a new thread continuing on where this one left off.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1338018

 

I haven’t been using fuel additive and today changed both fuel filters and installed the Diesel Site dual filter kit I’ve been sitting on. It’s been 787 miles since the dealer changed the fuel filters (I’m now under the impression the only changed the lower filter, not the upper). The lower filter element looked perfectly clean. No traces of the stuff on the last filter. I’m going to consider this whole thing behind me.