It would be in the 6.5" range for the Ex, bringing it up to a SD with a 4.5" lift.

Just get all the parts for a 4.5" Superduty lift.
Shouldn't need to use a drop tracbar bracket or drop pitman, just need a longer adjustable tracbar.

 

That’s what I was hoping, but the Icon adjustable track bar states anything over 5.5” of lift requires a drop track bar bracket. So I’m unsure of how to proceed since I’ll have 6.5” of lift on the Ex. I hate to tear down the truck and be in the middle of the swap and not have a long enough track bar.

 

It's all based on the pickup. You're over complicating it.

 

Sounds good. Thanks for the help.

 

If you are lifting more then 4" you are going to have to install a track bar drop bracket. You want to get the correct one that is for amount of lift being installed.
If you don't install one you will have a bump steer issue because the geometry of the steering drag link and the track bar will now have different angles of drop. I would also be looking into whether you also need to get a drop down pitman arm so everything stays in harmony.

 

Beta was correct, he is overcomplicating things. The suspension manufacturers call their kits 2.5" or 4.5" or whatever as relative to the vehicle they are going on, which means pickups for the most part. As the OP said, he has an Excursion which sits lower than the pickups. The front frame spars are the same as the truck chassis, any components that work together properly on a 4.5" lift on a pickup will also be the correct combination on his truck even though the net amount of lift will be higher than with a pickup. The final lifted height will be the same.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I’m getting excited...ordered Icon 4.5” lift coils and an adjustable track bar on Black Friday. I’m tearing down the axle and replacing tired TRE’s & bad seals, also installing an ARB air locker. Should be a great setup for adventuring with my family.

 

A set of One Up Offroad Adjustable Link Arms is going to make it easy getting your caster perfect. They also provide more room for larger tires and not rub on the arms with the offset axle mount. The chromoly frame joint allows for much greater suspension articulation than the OEM radius arms (which barely allow for any).

 

I’ve planned for a set of Fabtech radius arms, but the ones you mentioned look sweet.

Any thoughts on how the front end flexes with the upgraded radius arms & sway bars still connected? Does anyone make a quick disconnect swag bar link similar to what the Jeep community has available?

 

I wouldn't go with the Fabtech radius arms. Bushing pivot at the frame bracket, ovalized hole for caster adjustment. Before I switched over to One Up Offroad, I had Fabtech traction bars on my 2004 6L and broke them. Kinda turned me off from the brand.

Current truck has lots of OUO goodies and I couldn't be happier with everything. Initial $ buy-in is higher, but when it's only a one time purchase it's cheaper in the long run.

As to the sway bar link, I haven't seen a disconnect yet for a Superduty. I just use a stock one, and it isn't as tight a Hellwig, not even close so there is some flex to it. I have disconnected a link on each end and it makes a huge difference but is a pain to dig out the tools and lay in the dirt to do it if you're on the trail.

 

Lol I have the same exact lift height as you and identical Icon 7” coil springs up front. I have the Fabtech radius arms and they have a adjustable cam on the bottom bolt for adjusting trucks camber. The Fabtech arms are fine and have no flawed parts that wear out etc.
But if I was doing the lift today I would go the OUO 3 link setup because it’s not as broad as the Fabtech arms. I placed black aluminum plating behind my Fabtech’s side plates to cover the holes that they come with. Reason is so they don’t look like aftermarket bling suspension parts.
The OUO arms are very descrete and that’s why I like them. Plus the Fabtech arms are going to run you around $1,000.00 anyways so the OUO is not much more.

I am going to tell you that the rear leaf springs are your determining factor of how the trucks going ride. There is no factory leaf springs regardless of year that are anywhere remotely as good of a ride as the Carli/Deaver set. Another improving factor is the leafs have 13 individual leafs and they reduced my axle wrap completely. Now they only come as high as 4-1/2” of lift and that’s without the OEM blocks. I found them closer to 5-1/2” and I made a pair of 1-1/2” 6* angled blocks with 1” center pin offset for axle centerline adjustment. It’s a game changer for sure and worth every dollar.

As far as tire noise with the Toyo M/T I can hear mine in the cab but it’s light. I have zero engine or turbo noise in my truck from the Dyna-Mat and all of the foam rubber insulating.
But I do have a low frequency hum that comes from my tires at higher speeds. But it is neglageble and the only sound I hear in the truck. I would bet the R/T Toyo’s are a fair amount less then the M/T design.
Regardless being a M/T tread my last set of 38/15.50/18 went a little over 55,000 miles on my old 2006 F250. They are good tires and will last as long as you don’t torque them hard leaving a dead stop. They go much further then my Mud Grapplers did. They also are 30 lbs more weight then the Grapplers were.

 

Wanted to update everyone on how my axle swap played out.

The truck drives and rides so nice now compared to the leaf spring setup. The tighter turning radius is very nice when turning around on two-track forest service roads!

No major challenges with the swap.

Here's all the parts I ended up using...

2006 F-250 Dana 60
35"x12.50"x18" Goodyear Wrangler Dura-trac tires
4.30 factory gears
ARB air locker
One Up Offroad Adjustable Link Arms
One Up Offroad Radius Arm Brackets
Icon 4.5" coil springs
Icon adjustable track bar
PMF Suspension draglink
PMF Suspension brake lines
PMF Suspension dual steering stabilizer kit
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Spicer axle joints
Napa Premium brake pads
Moog TRE's

 

That looks nice!