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Coolant leak only when engine is off and system is pressurized

11K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  GaterJ  
#1 ·
Hoping someone can help me out here as I'm completely stumped and have a 3 hr drive back home. About a week ago I noticed coolant dripping from the driver's side, front of the motor. Nothing crazy, just a steady drip every few seconds. Enough to soak the crossmember. I topped it off and let the truck idle for an hour in my driveway with no leaks whatsoever. I drove the truck for a week and had no leaks at all other than a little bit that puked out the degas bottle from overfilling.
Then yesterday I drive the truck to work, came back out on a break 3 hrs later and it was bone dry under the truck. I did not run the truck at all, but when I came out again in another 3 hrs or so there was the same steady drip from the driver's side front of the motor. So I popped of the cap of the degas bottle and the system was still fully pressurized. After releasing the pressure the leak stopped. I topped it off again and drove it home, again letting it idle in the driveway for about 30 minutes with no leaks at all.

So it seems that it only leaks when the truck is off, and there is pressure in the system. If I take the cap off after I park the truck it doesn't seem to leak. I've checked all my hoses, the water pump and the thermostat housing and can't spot any leaks. Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?

FYI: I had a cracked head which allowed diesel into the coolant, so it's only been about 3k miles since everything was flushed and all hoses replaced since the diesel had made them weak

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#2 ·
I realize you recently did head gaskets, and I’m sure it has already crossed your mind. Start with the cap. It’s quick and cheap. That being said, when my hg went, the truck would hold pressure overnight
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I actually ended up just using an aftermarket sleeve to seal the crack, so I didn't get into the head gaskets. My only question is wouldn't it leak at idle after the truck was already hot if it was the hg causing too much pressure in the system? I've yet to see any leaks other than when the truck is off, and even still it's intermittent

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#4 ·
I'd recommend taking mirror and snake cam and find the leak. Odds are that the coolant is drying out and you can trace a chalky white or pink back to the source. Could be something like the Y-Connector under the Degas bottle.

I bought a coolant pressure tester from Harbor Freight and am able to hand pump the system to 16 PSI. The large leaks you can hear or see them drip, and the small leaks show up with bubble solution. I found three leaks in my Ford car this way. The price of these testers is much cheaper on Amazon or other vendors.
 
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#5 ·
I'd recommend taking mirror and snake cam and find the leak. Odds are that the coolant is drying out and you can trace a chalky white or pink back to the source. Could be something like the Y-Connector under the Degas bottle.



I bought a coolant pressure tester from Harbor Freight and am able to hand pump the system to 16 PSI. The large leaks you can hear or see them drip, and the small leaks show up with bubble solution. I found three leaks in my Ford car this way. The price of these testers is much cheaper on Amazon or other vendors.
All of my hoses have been replaced with oem Ford hoses very recently, including the y pipe piece which was actually the most recent one I've swapped, so I doubt it is that. But the pressure tester is certainly worth investing in, thanks for the suggestion!

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#7 ·
I'm wondering if it could be the water pump. It is extremely hard to see hidden behind the shroud. I had the EGR crack externally, which leaked on the passenger side. Was very hard to locate. I actually changed the block heater element thinking that was the culprit prior to finding the leak. Persistence will pay off.
 
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#8 ·
If your pump is leaking you can see it from under the center of the engine
Also new hoses are great but what about the clamps old or new if new are they oem
Old clamps can and do crack and loose tension.
The long start can be caused by the initial oil lose and the oil foamed up in the hpop and is just going to have to work all the air out
What kind of oil are you using personally i recommend rotella t6 full syn
Gater J

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