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Coolant Filter Kits

12K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  dave75d  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok guys, I have a question. I pretty new to deisel pickup engines but am learning a lot, everyday. But one thing still puzzels me.....coolant filter kits.

Now, I know how they work and how they connect, but is ity REALLY doing much in the long run? Here's why I ask.......my 6.0 holds about 7 gallons of coolant. The filter kits connect to the heater cores' output line, which if you think about it, the heater core and its' related plumbing only really holds about what, a gallon or so? Please correct me if that's wrong, by the way! Anyways, out of the flowing coolant running through that line, only a fraction really gets diverted into the coolant filter, and then sent to the holding tank to be recirculated. So it would seem to me that, in reality, only a very small fraction of the entire systems' coolant actually gets filtered.

Now please, if I'm missing somethin by all means inform and/or correct me. I'm also not dumb and realize that when it comes to preventitive maintenence, every little bit helps. But does this really help enough to warrent its' use? Thanks in advance to everyone out there!!
 
#3 ·
Yes you're right, in 95% of the filtration kits, they're built as a bypass style and yes, only a small amount gets filtered.....at one time. But your coolant doesn't just circulate through the system once.....it's moving through your system so EVERY time your coolant makes a circuit, some of it is going through that filter......after enough run time, all of that coolant has passed through the filter at one point.

If you really need some visible proof, just google "6.0 coolant filter cut" on images and look at the all the pictures that come up when guys cut their filters open. It's crazy nasty what kind of crap you're able to filter out with these as a bypass.

If you're hard up on getting it all filtered at once, check out the IPR full flow kit. The downside to this is you absolutely at all times HAVE to have the filter clean, or else the coolant flow suffers. With a bypass system, if it fills up/clogs, coolant can still travel along it's merry way, but with a full flow once the filter is clogged, flow stops.
 
#7 ·
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If you're hard up on getting it all filtered at once, check out the IPR full flow kit. The downside to this is you absolutely at all times HAVE to have the filter clean, or else the coolant flow suffers. With a bypass system, if it fills up/clogs, coolant can still travel along it's merry way, but with a full flow once the filter is clogged, flow stops.
Well, Im going to have to disagree to a point. If you use the IPR manifold and plumb the system as a complete full flow, then you are absolutely correct. BUT, if you do not use the manifold and plumb it in the heater supply line, it is still (basically) a full flow filter as long as your not using heat and it will not affect coolant flow to the rest of the engine if clogged. Not saying you should skimp on cleaning the filter, just clarifying.

Image
 
#6 ·
If you're worried about it only filtering a tiny percentage look up what a bypass oil filter can do.
 
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#9 ·
our heaters always have flow unless it's blocked by a heater control valve during max AC
that diagram doesn't really represent this application

I also argue with the term "full flow" it is not filtering like a true full flow coolant filter it couldn't handle the volume

it just filters all the fluid that runs through it on a branch line so to speak
 
#10 ·
Agreed. Unless you have a filter on the lower radiator hose, it's not full flow. However, the IPR system filters a lot more than other bypass setups. Even when you're not on Max A/C.

I live in Florida, so about 9 months out of the year, I get as close to full flow as you can get without that lower radiator hose filter thingy.
 
#11 ·
Thank you to everyone who posted replies. I see that I was right in my thinking, however I see the advantage a bit more clearly now. And thanks nighthawk285 for the suggestion of looking up coolant filter cutaways.....Definitely opened my eyes!!! Now, excluding the IPR kit, is there really one kit better than the others? They all seem identical in their design, with just minor viral differences. Thanks again guys!
 
#12 ·
I personally like the xdp one the best so that's the one I have. You don't have to splice into the overflow line from the degas bottle to the radiator and it has ball valve on the the housing assembly so it makes it nice and clean when you change the filter. It takes ten minutes to install no cutting just a few hose clamps and the nut and bolt to mount it. Change the first one after 500 miles and cut it open. You'll be amazed. Do it again after 1000 and again after 3000 and once more after 3000. Then once a year. At least that's what's in the instructions.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I have a Dieselsite. It required a bracket modification to counter what I considered to be basic design deficiencies. The need for modification didn't bother me nearly as much as DS's lack of interest in discussing how to make the design better. Their chief contended that there is insufficient profit margin in coolant filtration systems to blather on about bracket design techniques. Yeah.

If I were to buy a pre-made setup again, I would get the XDP XD143.

XDP 6.0L Coolant Filtration System XD143

The hoses are exceptionally well executed and the bracket is made of steel instead of aluminum - which is too brittle to be sensibly used for a cantilever mount. For the price, it seems a better option.

XDP is a ORG site sponsor. XDP also has a 10% site-wide sale going on now, IIRC.

Hope this helps.
 
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