I have an 05 F350 6.0 Powerstroke I bought a few years back. I went to Wal-Mart one day and was pulling out of the parking spot driving forward, when I ran into a handicap cart someone had left in the right front blind spot (have 3.5" lift). It cut my lower radiator hose and lost all coolant. Fortunately was only a mile from the house. Repaired the hose..went to local Advance Store..guy says "computer says Ford Gold coolant." Put it in...ran for 2 days then it starts belching smoke and I'm losing water like no one's business. Do research, find that the EGR and Oil Cooler are bad? So, pulled the oil cooler and EGR...the coolant had turned into gel like baby diaper stuff and clogged everything. No repair possible except to replace. $900 later after extensive research, I use only CAT Red 50 now and it has been fine since. It seems only the CAT coolant has the make up needed to handle the heat and stresses for everyday driving as well as pulling - at least from my experience.

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For some reason I can't see the chart, I'm supposed to buy the caterpillar coolant today and wonder if that is a good choice in the chart?

 

Shell Ultra ELC is my recommendation for the 6.0 .
Got mine from Keller Heartt Oil.
https://www.kellerheartt.com/Shell-...VRXa215dHlyWnVjcUgwTmtFY2ZhXC83cUczbnp1RVJWSVZqOVJscDFiZVB1QVZsSG41SEFTNlUifQ==

 

I myself bought the CAT EC1 because that is what everyone else is copying. Why not use the real stuff, that said if I couldn't get it I would go with the Shell Rotella and nothing else. I just don't trust generic stuff at all.

 

I chose the Rotella ELC because of price (~$15/gallon of concentrated) and availability since it's carried at most Tractor Supply stores. I've used Shell products for many years and never had a complaint.

 

So rotella elc is better than the cat brand?

 

Better? No but they are the same spec.

 

When I switched to Cat ELC I noticed the rusty looking residue in the bottom of my degas bottle disappeared within a couple weeks. Has anyone noticed if the Rotella or Zerex accomplishes the same thing?

 

Never noticed it, maybe the red just hides the rust? Zerex is different though, part of the reason for this thread

 

Good to know

 

I say brand XYZ is the best without so much as a hypothesis, data, or anecdotal experience.

 

Luckily, I have that in stock...

Everyone knows you can't use green XYZ ! It'll mess up the defibralinker valve and ruin the muffler joint. I'd only put that in a 12V

 

Luckily, I have that in stock...

 

Rather than bring back a old thread I thought I would ask here @SparkyF250 :thumb:
I'm due for a oil cooler backflush and would like to install valves this go around on the plugs.
I know the fumoto part # is F108N anyone know what the ez-drain part # is..
I like the O-Ring idea better overall.. PS would a 90 degree valve work better on passenger side ..:dunno:

 

The Fumoto is 16 mm so maybe this EZ Engine Oil Drain Valve EZ-108(16mm-1.5) & L-Shaped Hose End L-001 COMBO PACK | eBay I'm not sure though

 

Hmm anyone have. Procedure to back flush? So question. I bought this truck 10 k ago it now has 122k on it. I have no idea of the coolant has ever been swapped. Would it b worth it to do a bAck flush with a coolant flush when doing the water pump? I need to swap the serp belt while it's all out and figure it's a good time to swap the coolant. Deltas are within 5-8 normal driving unloaded at sea level


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Boudah I would surely get that Gold out of your truck. Your oil cooler temps are good so yea I would flush it out and put in a EC1 Coolant.
I did four of these trucks now and I used Cascade Dishwasher soap in all of them with no oil cooler issues afterwards. There's threads on the forum on the procedure, I would just stay away from any acid cleaner. You just want to get out the silicates and debris out of the engine. Just make sure to pull BOTH block drain plugs.

Good Luck with it, a wise thing to do for sure.

 

Is $25.00 a gallon for Cat ELC Concentrate a good price....

 

I'ts been an hour are you done reading it yet @Boudah:doh:

 

XYZ or ABC. Nothing else.

 

Ya'll do realize this is a Sticky thread, right? oke :look: :sofa:

 

Not yet. :wall:

I guess I just miss jetjock, so I'm mocking him. :rofl:

 

Thanks for sharing the info @SparkyF250, definitely worth the sticky.

When I backflush my oil cooler I think I am going to use a different ELC, currently I am running Zerex.

 

I might have to as well. A tractor supply just opened up about 40 minutes from me.

 

I never had a leak til I made the switch to red Cat EC-1. Now it leaks like mad. LOX said there is a green that's good for the 6.0 but I haven't gotten to the bottom of that.

 

I have a bottle of VC-9 if anyone wants it. I read the ingredients and said there's no frickin way I'm putting that in my engine.

 

Yea its a metal etching cleaner. One of the trucks I did was a old friends 2003 and Ford did his with VC9. All of his aluminum inside was Black, no kidding. That's when I took the angle of no-way on the acid stuff.

 

Sparky.............................You're a Rooster

 

Who...what :angel1:

 

That looks like one pissed off rooster. Or as I call it, a rooster.

 

That rooster's got the blues :rofl:

He was running G05 and clogged his oil cooler :chicken:

 

im running the ford gold and haven't had any issues yet. might switch to ELC when i go to stud the truck

 

Good Luck with that.

 

I had Ford gold coolant in mine for up to about 150k+ miles and didn't have an issue. I switched to ELC when I swapped out the stock oil cooler for the BPD relocation kit. Just because someone has had gold coolant in their truck doesn't mean they are going to have failure.

 

I had it in mine until 193K when I had to replace the oil cooler. It came out like snot. I think eventually it's gonna clog so better safe than sorry..but if you can monitor your temps then I suppose you can hold off until it does

 

anyone use the fleetrite elc coolant from international?

 

Yep. That is what I am running.