It would probably just be an iterative process of taking just a little bit off the rod until it's where you want it. You should be able to get it attached over the pedal's nub without pushing the rod into the master (too long) or moving the pedal (too short). Cheers!

 

Hey Patrick. Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah, that is what I am going to do. Take a little bit off. What happened originally is I cut the 1st push rod a little short and there was about and inch of slack in the pedal. This caused the pedal to be pushed right up against the floor in order for the neutral safety switch to engage. I was just going to remove the lever and re-index it a little closer to the firewall but getting that lever out without removing the pedal box is a major PITA. The good news is the master cylinder push rod can be removed without taking the master cylinder off.

 

Is it better after u trimmed the rod

 

I never needed to do the heim joint mod on my 94 (it wasn't an available "thing" when my OEM bushing disintegrated). I used a modified bushing with a drill stop/shaft collar and some grease and never had another issue. When I had to change the master, line and slave with new updated ones (due to cracking slave cylinders on early smaller bore cylinders on early trucks), the new master rod required me to "slightly" push the rod in to get in on the nub. That never caused an issue other than I couldn't bleed the system without disconnecting the rod from the pedal linkage. I don't know if it caused a port to be blocked in the master or what. Cheers!