It's best to call BPD. Their customer service is top notch. I have not used it, but it looks like the kit is built for small cracks in the head that leak diesel, but no coolant.

When I've explained what I want to BPD, they will tell me if its unnecessary even if it's a loss of hundreds in business to them. I had my brakes done there and they talked me out out slotted drilled rotors and kept me with OEM, in addition to other wants I had.

 

I will 2nd their customer service! A couple weeks back while in Disney and having to replace a failed injector, upon replacement I was getting a low voltage code on cylinder 8. On the way I was noticing my FICM dropping to 47 volts at times. So in a panic, I called BPD thinking I would need a new FICM power supply sent to me overnight. After talking to me for at least 1/2 hour, they felt the issue was not the FICM but rather a wiring (perhaps chaffing) issue. They were correct and basically talked me out of spending $700.

So needless to say.....when I need a FICM or anything else for that matter, BPD is my first stop. Their service is stellar.

 

@Sentinel@BPD

 

I've talked to BP about their kit before. I couldn't find a review that wasn't a magazine, or Youtube personality. Was hoping I could find someone who has put some miles on a fix before.

I called and talked to Tim at Accurate Diesel, and decided to go with their kit. I'm not too excited to have a different lower injector body, but only because it offends my OCD.

I'm only 90% sure it's the head, it still may be the cup. I can't quite get in there with my eyes, only with a mirror. So after spending the $650 on the BP tool, I still may need to buy/rent a cup puller and do the cup. With the Accurate Diesel kit, it replaces the cup with a longer one that spans that crack. Seems like a permanent fix also, where the BP is likely a permanent fix, but cracks may grow.

With the ability to rent a cup puller from Accurate, it's also $200 cheaper to go with them.

https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/279.html

 

I will do. It looks straightforward, but I also haven't done cups before.


The dirty injector is the one that came out of #5. Any idea what is causing the discoloration/burning on the lower body? I suspect the lower o-ring is also bad (it's flat and hard) and letting diesel down into the cup? Any ideas?

 

I would guess a failure of the copper crush washer allowing combustion gasses to blowback into the injector bore. Could you detect a lesser amount of torque on the fastener for that cylinder?