This video is short and helpful. I am also going to do this very soon on my 2011 F450. I bought Daystar bushings, because it came in a complete set for a good price.

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All this talk about cab bushings I figured the ones on my '04 have got to be shot by now so I crawled under the truck and was surprised to see that they all looked great, not dry or cracked or rotted away, are all these can bushing issues in road salting regions?

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I am on the coast in Texas so that is possible. I think it’s more of a ford issue probably hit or miss on some years. My bottom half’s are just crumbling the tops are not nearly as bad.


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I heard that 2011 -later do not last long, but my truck was owned(abused, no doubt) by a Louisiana logging Co for 168,000 miles before I bought it.


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Run from the Daystars, return them now if they are still in the box.
Read the negative reviews on Amazon, although they will work on the 2011's & up, they don't fit properly.
Way too much slack between the inside and outside clearances.

I put them on my 2011 and pretty much wish someone would steal the truck for the months I had them on there.

Go over a bump or turn with a bump in it and I felt it. It was terrible.

I had to bite the bullet and replace the Daystars with factor Motorcraft parts.
I pieced them together on eBay for a total of $540ish.

I used the video above to both body mount swaps.
Do not use and impact, slow and steady wins the race with these bolts.

Now that I have the factory bushings in my truck
rides nice and smooth as it did before the body mounts wore out.


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I took picture of the sloppy fit prior to removing the Daystars in hopes that I cold use them to help prevent someone else from making the same mistake I did.

This gap translates into the whole cab shifting over bumps in the road.
I even took the truck to a mechanic to check the front end out. He replaced one part but was at a loss on what was causing the clunk. He even went through each body mount and impacted the bolt further than what I had tightened them. It was then that I read the negative reviews and realized my issue.

The daystars evidently fit through year model 2010, but not 11+, bigger holes in the newer models evidently.

 

@00buck. Do you have similar pics of the Motorcraft fitment? Thanks


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I don’t believe so.
Just envision a puzzle piece that fits completely inside the slots with no gaps like you can see in those pictures.
Much larger chunks of foam/rubber to soften the bumps in the road.
I thought I would be OK with the firmer ride, and I was.
it was the clunking I could feel in my feet and the popping I could hear when driving over bumps that was driving me nuts.


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If you look at these negative reviews on Amazon on the daystars you can see the size difference.

A fella named "jesse" posted pics with a tape measure showing the size difference.

https://www.amazon.com/product-revi...=cm_cr_arp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&filterByStar=one_star&pageNumber=1

 

I'm getting ready to tackle this as well and I will be using OEM mounts, too many bad stories about the fitment on aftermarket mounts. I spend too much time on the not so smooth roads to be dealing with a worse ride!

 

Have you priced the oem mounts?


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Yeah, what I have found have been between $50-70 a piece. Gotta pay attention to it though because it'll say "bushing set" but really its only one bushing with all the hardware included.

 

The Motorcraft parts I purchased didn't come with any hardware. But none is needed.
You simply reuse the bolts you pull from your truck.

BTW, the second or third bolt towards the rear of the cab was a mother to get out (on both sides) . I was concerned it was stripping out on removal, but once removed it looked fine. Once again, slow and steady with a cheater bar- don't want to strip out the caged nut or you'll be taking the cab apart to hold the nut from the top. (as mentioned in the video)


There is another brand of replacement bushings that sells them in sets- Doreman or something to that effect. (as listed with orielly and auto zone)

I read the reviews on them and was scared off by previous mistake of steering clear of OEM.
The Doremans are made in China and I read of one review saying they didn't fit correctly for the 2011's & up and another saying they squeaked, that was enough for me to pay up and go back to what I know worked.

 

My apologies, Dorman is what I found. Do you happen to know the part numbers you used?

 

I swapped them two weeks ago and happily threw all the information that went along with it.

I pulled a search online for the parts and pieced together the parts list from one of the schematics shown on some of the dealers parts pages.

I then took the parts list to ebay and started filling my cart until I had all 16.
Kind of a pain in the butt, but worth while to save the $200 compared to just buying at my local dealer. The lady there did hand me the parts list she put together, but I found one set of her numbers to be for a 2010.

I'll dig around on my ebay account and see if I cant do some srt of copy and paste to over here.
Here is what I ordered, some I was able to order 2 at a time, others only 1 at a time due to how the listing was sold on ebay.
It takes two of each part number. 8 different numbers x2 and I think one set is used twice if that isn't confusing enough.
hopefully this will get you started.

Genuine Ford Lower Insulator 7C3Z-1000155-GA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-For...-1000155-GA/332364377708?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Genuine Ford Lower Insulator 7C3Z-1000155-AA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-For...-1000155-AA/332364387298?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

FORD 7C3Z1000154LB GENUINE OEM UPPER INSULATOR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-7C3Z10...R-INSULATOR/291658216766?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

FORD 7C3Z1000155A GENUINE OEM LOWER INSULATOR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-7C3Z10...R-INSULATOR/301845862684?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

FORD 7C3Z1000155B GENUINE OEM LOWER INSULATOR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-7C3Z10...R-INSULATOR/302376192233?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

FORD OEM 05-16 F-250 Super Duty Frame-Upper Insulator 7C3Z1000154LB
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-05...3Z1000154LB/162588545075?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

FORD OEM 08-16 F-350 Super Duty Frame-Upper Insulator 7C3Z1000154BA
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-08...3Z1000154BA/162588545538?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

FORD OEM 08-16 F-250 Super Duty Frame-Upper Insulator 7C3Z1000154AB
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-08...3Z1000154AB/162588545725?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Is this all parts needed? You just reused existing hardware correct?


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Yes on using the existing hardware, which is the bolts and some thick washers.

I provided the parts I used as a guide to help those along, but please double check the part numbers with a schematic of the parts needed so that you can order properly.
I’ll try to dig one up and post it when I can.
I used a drawing one of the ford dealers provided online to piece it together.

16 total, 1 top and 1 bottom each for all 8 mounts. Most have different part numbers to help confuse the consumer I guess. I remember 2 of the bottoms having the same part numbers, all the rest were different numbers- if I remember correctly.


Here is a chart similar to the one I used to build the buy list-
remember you are looking for insulators -
https://www.hennessyfordparts.com/a...super-duty/lariat-trim/6-7l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/frame-and-components-scat

 

1 7C3Z-1000154-BA Upper Insulator
Upper Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #1
$50.77 $39.45


 
1 7C3Z-1000154-BA Upper Insulator
Upper Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #1
$50.77 $39.45


 
2 7C3Z-1000154-AB Upper Insulator
Upper Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #2
$49.60 $38.54


 
2 7C3Z-1000154-AB Upper Insulator
Upper Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #2
$49.60 $38.54


 
3 7C3Z-1000154-LB Upper Insulator
Upper Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #3
$47.43 $36.86


 
3 7C3Z-1000154-LB Upper Insulator
Upper Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #3
$47.43 $36.86


 
5 7C3Z-1000155-GA Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #1
$31.98 $24.85


 
5 7C3Z-1000155-GA Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #1
$31.98 $24.85


 
6 7C3Z-1000155-AA Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #2
$37.08 $28.81


 
6 7C3Z-1000155-AA Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #2
$37.08 $28.81


 
7 7C3Z-1000155-B Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #3
$40.92 $31.79


 
7 7C3Z-1000155-B Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #3
$40.92 $31.79


 
8 7C3Z-1000155-A Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, LEFT

BODY MOUNTING, #4
$30.98 $24.07


 
8 7C3Z-1000155-A Lower Insulator
Lower Insulator, RIGHT

BODY MOUNTING, #4
$30.98 $24.07


This is copied from the link I sent with the proper part numbers you'll need.
if I'm looking at their drawing correctly, it's the #3's- 154LB's that get used twice.
I'll go check my ebay account to see which I ordered 4 of.
 
Yes, that is correct. I ordered 4 of the 154lb's from 2 different vendors since one only had 2 in stock, but was at a cheaper price.

 

So quoted these parts through local dealer and getting quotes of $900 for all of them. Really need to get some ordered soon


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Ouch, your dealers trying to get you for worse than mine was.




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I believe those are the two that didn’t degrade near as bad as the rest. Not sure why they used a different rubber where that one goes, but they did. Just make sure to add the part numbers up with the location on the cab to keep it the way they had it.
I would replace the lowers that are broken or rotted out
(Buying local at this point?) .
I’m not sure how important that is, but you might want to do it right the first time instead of having to do it all over again later.
My lowers were degraded or rotted out just as bad as the uppers, if not worse.


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Come to think of it if they were all made of that same black material they would all probably last a lot longer, (but maybe ride a tad rougher ) those were the only two out of my 8 original uppers that weren’t clapped out.
So smart money, if you planned on keeping the truck forever, might be going with the all Blacks on top instead of the squishy orange ones.


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Is that the one that squashed down? I think 3rd from the front



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I remember it being third from the front, having cracks in them , but not squished down . my fronts were clapped out and my second backs were shot the ones toward the rear were only half shot.

Luckily for you, they will replace the black ones that you pull out. [emoji106]



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Alright so today was the day. Replaced the body mounts. Unfortunately the driver side front right under the radiator support was the only problem child. Bolt refused to come out got it about 1/2 in from top of nut and it siezed up on me. Going to have to cut it out. Only problem is there is no replacement nut for it. It is designed inside of the radiator lower support frame. So unless I can drill out the rest of the bolt and retap the nut I will be replacing this support. It’s only $120 but going to be a lot of work. Anyone else have this issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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body mounts

Joined today to say thank you to all the contributors to this thread. My 2011 F-250 has been needing new mounts and I was able to get everything ordered quickly because of 00Buck et al.

Should be delivered today from Tasca Parts and will be doing this over the weekend.

Thanks!

 

Well, got everything installed without any major issues. Did have to get position 3 uppers switched out, as the 154LB mounts were different from what came out, but using a breaker bar and the wife's torch was able to knock them all out in a couple of hours. Truck rides like new again.

 

I'm confused on the "positions". My 2012 F350 single-cab has 3 mounts on each side. So, are the ones in the very front considered "position 1" or "radiator mount"? the ones under the doors, "position 2"? and the ones right behind the seats by the back wall of the cab are "position 3"?

 

Old post but FYI for anyone researching.
I did OEM, it was expensive but too many people were not happy with there aftermarket for my liking. All went in fine but the front core support ones had to be backed out to get the forward cab ones in. Be careful here and dont do what I did. I went out all the way with radiator support ones and then back in two turns. Then pulled front cabs. Passenger went in fine but driver needed a little more space to squeze in. Went up forward and backed out the Rad support driver one more turn which caused it to drop fully unsupported. I slid up to the Body mount and put it in then went to front and tightened the Rad support back in. ( we had a lift, not off jacks )
It has been many miles since the install and there are no leaks or issues from the nose dropping. I am very lucky. My mechanic buddy at the front of the truck said he was happy I put it back together without coming out to look as I would have s__t my pants at how bad it looked in the front and in the engine compartment 😂 We did ( to be safe ) take a bunch of stuff out so inspect all the engine compartment items that could have been damaged from the tention after the drop.
Next issue I had was I am used to ( old cars and such ) tightening the body mounts down till they squish then backing it off a little bit. When I did this with the Super Duty, all was good until there was a decent bump in a turn, say 15MPH and a bump. Then loud snap noise im guessing like the Polyurethane guys talk about. Put em to Ford Torque value and all body lines are perfect, rides great and no noise in turn bumps. Even hammering on a dirt road all is good.

 

Anyone try the S&B or No Limit body mounts? Sounds like they may be comparable in price to OEMs.

 

I have the S&B silicone - came with all new hardware too, lock tite on the bolts ready to install-

S&b silicone body mounts

So I went with them for the f450. Removing the old ones showed how bad some were just after 5 years and 110k . Short test drive and everything is nice and firm, no noises. Will see how they perform. Going to try and post some pictures.

www.powerstroke.org

 

I have the S&B paid for just waiting for delivery
I was not giving OEM more money for mounts that are not UV stable

the No limit version seems like it may be the S&B also ?