Nothing wrong with the OEM gaskets, it's the design of the 6.0 with the 4 TTY bolts per cylinder that's the problem. The single most important thing to do when studding is to get your heads to a machine shop to be pressure tested and machined flat. There are some threads on here about gasket comparisons if you want to read it, http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/971506-6-0l-head-gasket-comparison.html

 

There are some threads on here about gasket comparisons if you want to read it, http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/971506-6-0l-head-gasket-comparison.html

I was actually just reading that thread! ..

Did anyone else notice, THEY HAVE AN M1 ABRAMS IN THIER YARD!!!

............... my Grammar may suck but my comprehension is good .:grin:

 

I was actually just reading that thread! From what it says, Felpro may be my choice. Now if i can find them in a kit with all the other gaskets included...

Did anyone else notice, THEY HAVE AN M1 ABRAMS IN THIER YARD!!!

 

Did anyone else notice, THEY HAVE AN M1 ABRAMS IN THIER YARD!!!

Not a M1 Abrams. A British Chieftan done up to look like an M1 for the movies. There are no Abrams in civilian hands except for a prototype that is extremely different from the real thing. Still very cool.

 

I'd stick with Ford oem headgaskets

 

Nothing wrong with OEM, the felpro look pretty good, it's just too bad they make em in China. Again, the 1st most important thing is getting the heads machined properly, 2nd is proper torque, which should be done with the cab off or engine out so you can get an even pull with the torque wrench. It's almost impossible to get the final pull even enough with the cab on. Guys do it all the time, but you need that smooth pull to the click to get em all the same.
Yeah, the tank is a BPD thing, it's bulletproof :hehe:

 

BPD has a head gasket/stud kit. It's like 1,400 bucks for the 6.4 liter. Has everything you need and it's quite a lot. Don't know about the 6.0 kit but I'm sure it's 1/2 the price!

 

OP, check the thread in my signature.

 

I read that thread, and the 2x pages to follow. Great writeup, but a bit foreign to me. Anyway, a lot of the guys seem to like what felpro did with the thicker surface in places, that makes me want to go with them, not the cheaper price.

The problem I have with OEM is that you can't seem to find them without the TTY head bolts, AND I have never really had much luck with using strictly ford parts on a repair. Had an injector misfire in my Ecoboost Taurus and went through 3 "Motorcraft" injectors before finally switching to Bosch and fixing the problem. Its no secret that some OEM parts are inferior, i mean, aren't the head bolts the reason we blow gaskets?

 

Thanks for all the input guys! Im new to the 6.0 and am taking notes on everything as I go! Im going to do the typical tests (coolant psi and stuff) to confirm its a head gasket problem before I spend $$$.. Its leaking coolant from the right rear cylinder head, 99% sure its a head gasket because its pretty dry between the heads considering the amount of coolant that soaks the driveway when I park after a drive.

 

Despite your belief of a dry valley, I'd almost guarantee the leak you mention is the coolant hose connected to either your EGR cooler or delete. Whichever you have.

Edit: It's probably leaking as it cools down, not while it's up to temp. That may be why you aren't seeing anything in the valley.

 

^^^^^ This

 

I see your edit now, makes sense that the pressure keeps the hose seated correctly. Can that hose be replaced without removing to much on top of the engine? I have an EGR Delete but want to reinstall an EGR cooler with the ends welded up. I hate having questionable hardware decide the reliability of my engine.

 

Replacing the hose isn't too bad. You can do it with just pulling the CAC tube, maybe even without doing that. You probably just need to tighten the clamps a bit for now though. Putting a cooler back in is a bit more involved. A lot more has to be removed.

 

BPD has a tank now?:look:

 

who knew ?

LOL

 

Lots of people? :dunno: It's been in a few magazines, and Roadkill killed a Prius with it. :look:

 

I would also check to see if it's the o ring where the delete tube goes into the manifold. I've changed mine 3 times now.

 

Always a good idea to use oem o rings and seals on those delete kits?
Every time I've pulled them apart, the seals are rock hard. Sometimes within weeks even

 

Part number for oem ring?

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