I think it’s 2-4gauge - I forgot exCtly

http://custombatterycables.com/application/f350_cables_1987-e99.htm

Make your own would be cheaper.

http://custombatterycables.com/application/f350_cables_1987-e99.htm


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great, exactly what i was looking for, Thanks!

 

That custom battery cables guy makes nice stuff. I've heard it's not that much money saved trying to do it yourself either and chances are they wont turn out as good as the ones he makes unless you're used to working with large wiring like that.

 

Actually you save a lot of money doing it yourself. All it takes is a hammer and a crimper + materials. Now if you didn’t have the equipment - you would be even once all said and done if doing it yourself.
I make all of them myself.

Crimper is $20, wire $50, crimp ends $10-$20. If you don’t want to mess with it, I would just order it from that site I gave ya - way much easier and very convenient.


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Another good wiring upgrade is to add a second positive cable off the alternator going to the driver's side positive battery terminal. (The stock setup sends the alternator power to the passenger side only.)

 

I bought all the lugs and terminals today (all solder on) and it turned out well. The passenger side (the busy side) I used marine type terminals, soldered on heavy duty lugs for all cables and on the driver side I bought solder on post terminals. I used marine heat shrink on all connections, its secure, clean and everything ohms out perfectly. Starts right up. Now, I'll see if this has been the cause of my batteries getting weak over time (I suspect the cross-over cable as it was pretty beat up). Time will tell, I'm seeing 14.25V at each battery when running. At least now, if I have to splash out three bills on new batteries, I know its not the cables. All totaled it was $37

 

:worthless[1]:

 

As requested, here is a picture of what I did. The white crap on the drivers side battery is a baking soda solution residue which I used to neutralize the acid and clean the batteries before starting. As you can see from the battery tags, they are 4 years old and they may be wearing out. I don't know about Energizer batteries, except they are made by Johnson Controls. I've been having this weak battery issue on and off for about a year. The problem cycling is what makes me think it was the cross over cable, perhaps not making a good connection at times and not charging the drivers side battery well. I'll see now I guess.

 

you basically did the same thing i did on my ranger, cut the old ends off, and i crimped and soldered ring terminals on the ends and use marine clamps. looks a little nicer than mine, i used electrical tape vs heat shrink, but the ranger is a trail truck LOL.

 

You did a fine job buddy and you saved a bundle too! Clean and you actually used quality clamps instead of the POS ones that came stock!!! [emoji122][emoji106]


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I doubt they"ll come loose but I plan on keeping an eye on them. I've had boats for years and all of them use this type of battery connector. My current setup has 3 batteries and with a little chop on the water its a rougher ride than my truck and never had a wing not fly off. As for where I bought my connectors, it was a local mom and pop auto parts place. It seems some folks buy the stuff on Amazon or maybe eBay?. I got the wire sizes off of the web page posted by DieselDC earlier in this thread and they worked fine.

 

I don't have the time or tools to make a whole do it yourself project I would really just like to replace the terminal with an quality after market one anyone else know the size or have used something like that

 

I had to replace the positive cable on the passenger side battery and ended up replacing all three cables. The positive cable connects to both batteries and each battery has its own negative cable. I got the positive cable and one negative cable from Riff Raff Diesel and the second negative cable I got from Rock Auto. Just ensure you order the correct cable for your year model.

 

Where did u get the terminal with the 3 wires I am looking for one