can u link to the adj regulator ?

 

I found someone online who talked of opening the internal regulator and carefully disconnecting the wire which went from the potted circuit assembly to the alternator field winding and cutting the wire lead going to pin #3 of the 3-pin connector. Then connect the field winding directly pin #3 of the 3 pin connector so that the field can be energized externally Finally change the harness wiring so that the external regulator connects to the #3 on the 3-pin connector which will energize the field winding. I have not done this and I wanted to find if anyone here on the forums had performed such a change. It sounds plausible. The existing fusible links in the harness would still protect the alternator output and the added external regulator.
I may discover that the external regulator may require a relay connected to the key On to prevent the field from always being activated.
Comments?

 

the internal regulators I have seen on these are not going to be easy to open and I would be surprised if there was wires you can manipulate
the external regulators I have seen are like the one below but thats probably not the one for us ?

 

So no link to the source?

 

The OP is way ahead of me. He knows what he wants.

 

thats why you have a captive audience

 

I've been using one of these on my Toyota with good success since I have dual AGMs in them. Battery voltage is now around 14.5-14.9 depending on temp and battery charge level.

https://www.hkbelect.com/

 

Agreed! Such devices work well on alternators which have a separate 'S' Sense line which is not the case with the Ford 6G Alternator. The device 'fools' the Internal Regulator and controls at a higher voltage. In the Ford the current to the field winding is included in the lead to the regulator.

 

I always thought fords had a separate "sense" line. But I could be wrong. Is pin 3 not the sense wire?

Ford also makes a plug in diode to make it even easier, you could use them to replace the alt-s fuse. If your voltage isn't high enough and this isn't the case then you may be stuck with using an external regulator.

 

Here was the info I found on the 3G and 6G regulators, I figured you could boost the voltage by tricking it to thinking the voltage was lower.

 

Could you use a DC to SC converter to charge these batteries? Victron has lots of options. A normal alternator output could be ran through this can produce up to 30 amps of charging.

Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated - Victron Energy

I have 4GC2 12 volt lead acid batteries for my 1350 watts of solar panels. If I wanted to charge off an alternator, I would use something like the 12/12/30 from the extra alternator. The good thing about putting it through the Victron, is you'd be able to properly set a Bulk, absorption, and float voltages for charging profiles.

 

Could you use a DC to SC converter to charge these batteries? Victron has lots of options. A normal alternator output could be ran through this can produce up to 30 amps of charging.

Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated - Victron Energy

I have 4GC2 12 volt lead acid batteries for my 1350 watts of solar panels. If I wanted to charge off an alternator, I would use something like the 12/12/30 from the extra alternator. The good thing about putting it through the Victron, is you'd be able to properly set a Bulk, absorption, and float voltages for charging profiles.

Chris, yes that would be another option. I know that Renogy makes 20, 40 and 60 Amp 12V-12V chargers with adjustable charge characteristics. The 20 A is just over $100 as purchased one to charge our existing deep cycle batteries. With the Renogy the batteries are able to be charged while I am driving and I also connected it so the 12V from the trailer's converter will also fully charge them through the Renogy DC-DC. I think the 60 Amp is just under $300 so I was exploring options which might be lower cost to charge a custom Lithium pack which needs closer to 16V (I plan to build a pack using ~20 modules from a Nissan Leaf for the trailer: two sets of 10 modules in parallel which are then wired in series). Each Leaf module is rated ~7.5V and conservatively 60 AHr. With an external regulator on the alternator I could set the output to 16 or 16.5V which would give me close to a full charge on the Lithium pack.

 

I found the article on how to modify a Ford 6G alternator to use an external regulator. It is here and attached: Adding a 2nd Alternator for Direct Lithium Battery Charging – Working on Exploring