Many have installed valves like that with good results, my 2003 came factory with it so you can just buy one for a 2003 F350 and install it. Or you can install a manual 1/4 turn ball valve from Home Depot, you just have to turn it back on when you want heat. Many have used a valve designed for 3/4" PEX as it fits right in the 5/8" heater hose and all you need is 2 clamps.

 

Thanks!

 

I don't remember if my 7.3L had the vacuum line, but you can buy the 6.0L valve at auto parts stores for $36 and install it. If there is no vacuum line, you can use a wire tie to keep it closed all summer.

The PEX valve is much cheaper, at $12.

3/4 in. Brass PEX-B Barb Ball Valve

 

Thank you!

 

I run the ball valve posted above, I close it in the summer and open it in the fall. I live in a desert climate and it works without issues.

 

Thanks for the input....so do you actually get a 10 degree lower vent discharge when on Max Air??

 

I highly recommend using either the stock vacuum or the ball valve.

I never measured the temperature difference, but it did get colder. I went a more complicated way as I needed to incorporate a coolant bypass filter. This was the expensive way, too. But since the heater was always blocked, it made a difference all the time. The downside with the manual valve is if you get into a rain storm where you need to clear the condensation off the windshield, without hot water running through the core, it doesn't clear.

 

Nice setup. Where does the return plug back into? Is it necessary to do the bypass return?

 

This was with the 6.0L; the return went to the hose between the radiator and degas bottle of the 6.0L style. With the 7.3L, the return can go to how I show it in the last picture below. But, when I had the 7.3L, this is how I did the coolant filter:

 

I've cleaned the condensers and radiators on my vehicles and our home A/C condenser. A lot of dirt builds up on the vehicles.

The evaporator, no. My thinking is that since water condenses on the surfaces and drains off, it self-cleans.

 

I've cleaned the condensers and radiators on my vehicles and our home A/C condenser. A lot of dirt builds up on the vehicles.

The evaporator, no. My thinking is that since water condenses on the surfaces and drains off, it self-cleans.

OK....your the man....I trust your opinion....you just saved me a bunch of work....thank you for the feedback!!

 

Good Youtube video on cleaning evap core. Not hard to remove case cover and clean the core.https://youtu.be/TqFf7tP7Nfw

 

That's a good video for showing how much debris is there. I had mine pulled out when I rebuilt my 6.0L engine, but I did not have that on mine, so I guess it's a regional thing. Thanks for posting that.

In the video, he suggests using Simple Green. The common Simple Green corrodes aluminum, so I would not use that. I use Simple Green Aircraft cleaner, which is aluminum-safe, so that's an option. But the foaming coil cleaner is aluminum-safe and better for coil cleaning, so I'd recommend that.

From the video, it looks like you could clean the dirty side by only taking the blower out, not the shell. But if you remove the shell, I'd recommend cutting and taping it back up so the engine side of the shell can be removed easily, giving clearance for easier engine access for the valve cover bolts or injector work.

Aluminum Duct Tape for sealing.

Simple Green Aircraft Cleaner can be bought at Aircraft Spruce, Pilot's HQ, and Amazon. I only use it on aluminum, so it lasts a long time.

 

Literally just installed this a few days ago, seemed to work pretty decently. Not too hard of an install either, I say go for it!

 

Thanks for the feedback....live in southern AZ and this heat is killing me....looking for things to help the performance of my AC!

 

I never temped my air to see how much of a change there was.