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More thoughts on the bypass filter. First off I'm not a fan of the oem filter adaptor. Main reason is the leaks. My 7.3 is like a Harley Davidson motorcycle (if it doesn't leak you can't put the name on it:LOL:)

No, I haven't used a gauge. That's a good thought though. Friend who owns a diesel repair business could show me a good spot to attach a gauge all though it wouldn't do much good right now as my system is installed. He did just mention that Melling puts out a better low pressure pump. It's right behind the balancer. "IF" there were a drop in pressure, which I doubt, the better pump would make up for it. The size of the orifice leading to the bypass filter from the full flow filter is so small I can't see that there'd be any noticeable drop in pressure.
We ask because quite a few people talk about pressure when they don't even monitor. I have a billet pump and regulator housing from HSM. Puts out 10 more psi at idle 28-30, and up to 70-80 at WOT. Yes, I have a gauge and oil filter housing with 2 extra ports.
 

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More thoughts on the bypass filter. First off I'm not a fan of the oem filter adaptor. Main reason is the leaks. My 7.3 is like a Harley Davidson motorcycle (if it doesn't leak you can't put the name on it:LOL:)

No, I haven't used a gauge. That's a good thought though. Friend who owns a diesel repair business could show me a good spot to attach a gauge all though it wouldn't do much good right now as my system is installed. He did just mention that Melling puts out a better low pressure pump. It's right behind the balancer. "IF" there were a drop in pressure, which I doubt, the better pump would make up for it. The size of the orifice leading to the bypass filter from the full flow filter is so small I can't see that there'd be any noticeable drop in pressure.
Pressure should be the same, possibly a little less volume
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
I've talked to a close buddy who has his own shop and works on diesel trucks and knows the weaknesses of all of them. He said the oil pump is a lot stouter with much more headroom than the Duramax. He said it shouldn't be a problem for the 20+ 6.7 PSD. I looked at the BK 28 dual remote bypass but it looks to be not sold with a debris guard. Can anyone confirm? I looked at the parts diagram and didn't see it. Don Smith Amsoil dealer makes a nice looking mounting bracket and a few other things for $300. That's a bit steep.
Is the Kit from Don Smith worth it?
 
More thoughts on the bypass filter. First off I'm not a fan of the oem filter adaptor. Main reason is the leaks. My 7.3 is like a Harley Davidson motorcycle (if it doesn't leak you can't put the name on it:LOL:)

No, I haven't used a gauge. That's a good thought though. Friend who owns a diesel repair business could show me a good spot to attach a gauge all though it wouldn't do much good right now as my system is installed. He did just mention that Melling puts out a better low pressure pump. It's right behind the balancer. "IF" there were a drop in pressure, which I doubt, the better pump would make up for it. The size of the orifice leading to the bypass filter from the full flow filter is so small I can't see that there'd be any noticeable drop in pressure.
With the dual filter remote bypass, you can mount a gage on the filter block, one on the per filter supply side and one on the post filter side. Good way to check pressure differential and change filters before hitting the filter bypass pressure setting.
 
I've talked to a close buddy who has his own shop and works on diesel trucks and knows the weaknesses of all of them. He said the oil pump is a lot stouter with much more headroom than the Duramax. He said it shouldn't be a problem for the 20+ 6.7 PSD. I looked at the BK 28 dual remote bypass but it looks to be not sold with a debris guard. Can anyone confirm? I looked at the parts diagram and didn't see it. Don Smith Amsoil dealer makes a nice looking mounting bracket and a few other things for $300. That's a bit steep.
Is the Kit from Don Smith worth it?
The Don Smith Kit is spot on, good solid plate steel, no drill lineup to existing frame holes. Rock plate protectors filters from stray rocks. The filter block allows for a port on both supply and return if you want to add gages or remote senders to cab gages.
 
To remove all oil pressure paranoia, use a fixed orifice fitting at the tap port (a good design in all cases).

Parker's offerings are here. From what I've read, the 0.031" can be used without worry of dropping the pressure. But there are a few who insist the 0.016" is the largest that should ever be used (in the PS bypass filter context).

Arguments for each can be made, as with anything. Just don't hit me (yet) since I haven't decided. But pretty sure this is going to be splitting hairs.


On a side note, I'm still looking for a deep media spin-on cartridge that'll work. Will absolutely never use one of those fancy pants filters. Hundreds of dollars, gimme a break. It's motor oil, not snake oil.
 
To remove all oil pressure paranoia, use a fixed orifice fitting at the tap port (a good design in all cases).

Parker's offerings are here. From what I've read, the 0.031" can be used without worry of dropping the pressure. But there are a few who insist the 0.016" is the largest that should ever be used (in the PS bypass filter context).

Arguments for each can be made, as with anything. Just don't hit me (yet) since I haven't decided. But pretty sure this is going to be splitting hairs.


On a side note, I'm still looking for a deep media spin-on cartridge that'll work. Will absolutely never use one of those fancy pants filters. Hundreds of dollars, gimme a break. It's motor oil, not snake oil.
Whatever you do, we need raw data from an actual gauge, pre and post preferably. If not..then it's just snake oil lol
 
Whatever you do, we need raw data from an actual gauge, pre and post preferably. If not..then it's just snake oil lol
You're preachin' to the choir. Pressure comparison with bypass filter in the loop and not (open/close valve) should happen with oil at its hottest and engine rpm at lowest.

I'd frown on any needle deflection at all.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
I sent the brackets to get powder coated in Austin. Waco doesn't have anyone worth a crap to powder coat. I got to looking, with Don's kit the remote setup will add about 8' of hose total length. Will that lower flow or volume. Looks to be lengthy.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
If I was going to mount it closer, where should it be? Where it looks to be going now there will be 8' of hose to and from the bypass setup mounting it under the passanger side front door. Will 8' of hose pose an issue with volume or pressure, the hose looks to only be 1/2" ID?
 
If I was going to mount it closer, where should it be? Where it looks to be going now there will be 8' of hose to and from the bypass setup mounting it under the passanger side front door. Will 8' of hose pose an issue with volume or pressure, the hose looks to only be 1/2" ID?
Good question. It’s been a long time since I took Fluid Dynamics in college and my career hasn’t required me to do these calculations in probably 25 years, but I still have my texts. I’m open to correction.

Assuming:
-8 feet total of ½” ID teflon lined hose, with no bends and no connectors.
-SAE 30 oil at 212 degrees.
- 8 GPM flow rate (I have no idea what this engine actually flows, it just seemed a reasonable place to start).

Converting to metric (which is easier for me) and using standard tables:
-Oil density = 832 (kg/m^3)
-Max kinematic viscosity = 0.0000125 (10*kSt)
-Teflon surface roughness = 0.0000015 (m)

Oil velocity in the hose is 4 m/sec, so Reynolds number = ~4050. Relative roughness is 0.00012, which at that Reynolds number gives a friction factor of ~0.0425. Pressure drop is
Density*Length*Velocity^2*FrictionFactor / (2*Diameter)
which comes to
832*2.42*4^2*0.0425/(2*0.0127) = ~ 53,600 Pascals
= ~ 8 psi.

That’s just the drop due to 8’ of straight hose. Fittings and bends add more.
6 GPM comes to about 5 psi.
10 GPM comes to about 11 psi.
 
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