Did you look in the center section of the dash? There should be a connector there the trailer brake system. All you should need is an adapter cable that matches your BC to the Ford plug. Here's a pic I found on the internet.

 

Yes, I have the tow package that already had that connection inside the center console...
I just butted the bare ends of the new controller in.

Well, I'm still not sure what those relays and fuse is for in the box closest to the driver side and firewall corner, but I replaced a 30amp (Littelfuse type 495) fuse in slot 101 under the dash inside and at least have power to the brake controller now.

 

Those wires are just "extra" in case you need to run thru the firewall -- they are not connected to anything

The brake adapter plug in your pic has the wire colors mixed up -- may need to check the truck power, ground, and brake wires to see if they really are matching up to the brake controller -- looks like maybe someone wired the connector wrong

Black = Battery power
White = Ground
Blue = Electric Brake
Red = Stop Lamp Switch

Use a test light to verify the truck connector -- and the brake controller plug
the adapter may be what is wrong, so match the terminal positions on the brake controller

 

Those wires are just "extra" in case you need to run thru the firewall -- they are not connected to anything

The brake adapter plug in your pic has the wire colors mixed up -- may need to check the truck power, ground, and brake wires to see if they really are matching up to the brake controller -- looks like maybe someone wired the connector wrong

Black = Battery power
White = Ground
Blue = Electric Brake
Red = Stop Lamp Switch

Use a test light to verify the truck connector -- and the brake controller plug
the adapter may be what is wrong, so match the terminal positions on the brake controller

Yes, I tested all connections coming from power out of the plug and play adapter that goes into brake controller. I have 12.7v power out of the black, I have a lit circuit light in red when brake pedal is depressed, I have no lights from circuit in blue or white...

 

For what it's worth, I'll share this story.

We bought a new (to us) camper a few months ago, including a new load bearing hitch installation.

When all was done, I put the the truck in neutral, let it start rolling forward (it was on a slight incline), and attempted to apply brakes manually on the factory brake controller. Nothing happened.

Kudos to the crew at the dealer, Adventure Motorhomes in Greer SC. They spent at least 45 minutes troubleshooting the problem, and established without a doubt that my truck wasn't applying power to the brakes, but the brakes worked fine when power was applied through their test box.

Being an hour and a half from home through foothills and mountains, I wasn't eager to make the trip without brakes on the trailer.

So I whipped out my phone and did a Google search. It turns out that the factory trailer brake controller won't apply brakes if it doesn't think the truck is decelerating (or perhaps moving at some minimum speed).

A trip around the dealer's facility revealed that trailer brakes were indeed working. I could feel the trailer brakes engaging when I applied brakes on the truck, and I am pretty sure the manual control also worked - as long as we were moving.

Your controller may have similar logic built in. I'd suggest testing it while the rig is moving.

 

For what it's worth, I'll share this story.

We bought a new (to us) camper a few months ago, including a new load bearing hitch installation.

When all was done, I put the the truck in neutral, let it start rolling forward (it was on a slight incline), and attempted to apply brakes manually on the factory brake controller. Nothing happened.

Kudos to the crew at the dealer, Adventure Motorhomes in Greer NC. They spent at least 45 minutes troubleshooting the problem, and established without a doubt that my truck wasn't applying power to the brakes, but the brakes worked fine when power was applied through their test box.

Being an hour and a half from home through foothills and mountains, I wasn't eager to make the trip without brakes on the trailer.

So I whipped out my phone and did a Google search. It turns out that the factory trailer brake controller won't apply brakes if it doesn't think the truck is decelerating (or perhaps moving at some minimum speed).

A trip around the dealer's facility revealed that trailer brakes were indeed working. I could feel the trailer brakes engaging when I applied brakes on the truck, and I am pretty sure the manual control also worked - as long as we were moving.

Your controller may have similar logic built in. I'd suggest testing it while the rig is moving.

I did take it out around residential streets, and even with manual press at full, failed to apply brakes to the trailer.
It's weird... I confirmed I'm getting signal from the red wire (brake switch) from ight of the brake controller input under dash, but when the brake is pressed, no display on controller.
Only shows a display when I manually press and as it seems, unless I was going to slow like in your situation, it did not apply brakes to the trailer.

 

The factory controller in my '06 will hold the trailer using the manual slider button
this is in Park, use the manual slider for holding the trailer while I load -- with a clip to hold the slider together

Maybe not all act the same ? -- need to try mine in Neutral

The Tekonsha P3 in the other truck also holds the brakes with the manual lever control

 

What I was getting at -- are the controller connector wire positions correct to the truck ?
Disregard the wire colors for now and look at the controller and truck -- be sure the wires in the truck (power, ground, brake switch, and trailer) line up

Do you have to tilt the controller to a certain angle to get it to work -- according to the installation manual ?
Aftermarket controllers use an inertia control to sense when the truck is braking, and the angle of the controller affects this preformance

 

What I was getting at -- are the controller connector wire positions correct to the truck ?
Disregard the wire colors for now and look at the controller and truck -- be sure the wires in the truck (power, ground, brake switch, and trailer) line up

Do you have to tilt the controller to a certain angle to get it to work -- according to the installation manual ?
Some controllers use a inertia control to sense when the truck is braking

F'ing thing didn't come with a manual can you believe that? Could not locate one online either, but I did find one for a similar model.
I bought a Hopkins 47233 controller and matching Ford plug and play adapter 47715.
The manual I referenced was for model 47235, so I'm guessing that's a newer model than the one I just bought.
I was not aware of the angle requirements, but it sits loosely at an angle on its bracket on the lower dash console, which is also angled.

 

The red wire turns the brake lights on the truck (and trailer) when the controller activates -- either manually or via braking
it is an output from the controller

The blue wire sends power to the trailer brakes -- you can use a test light in the connector while using the manual control to see the output of the controller -- also use a meter or test light with the controller disconnected to see if the trailer brakes are connected to the truck

 

So yeah, time based, mounts at any angle
they have a manual .pdf here

Impulse™ Brake Control

 

I don't really like time based very well
they start slow and apply more and more brake, up to where you have it set

But whatever works -- personal preference
you have to spend a little more for the inertia brake controller, but I like the response to the braking force they give -- more braking force from the truck - more from the controller

 

Weirdest crap, this morning I come out to troubleshoot again and I had a red dot on the display on the brake controller indicating it was operating normal, and sure as sh** when I pressed the pedal with my hand, it correctly showed the display of applying pressure.
But...
Lo and behold, as soon as I started everything up and turned on the running lights, the display disappeared and has stayed that way since...
I unplugged the 7 way connection and nothing changed. I've been checking the condition of the 7 way between firewall and bumper and don't readily see an issue.
IDK man...
I hate electronic troubleshooting...
Is there a main ground that anyone knows of that the tow package connects, could it be a grounding thing? Might be a voltage surge coming from somewhere at start up?

The blue trailer power coming from truck reads .6v when no pressure applied and 1.1v with pressure applied, so I'm assuming that this is normal and that it operates at a low voltage? I get normal 12.7v from the black at all times and from the red when brake pedal is pressed. 🤦🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️

 

I returned the controller and got a replacement.
Same issue 🤦🏼‍♂️
It'll power up initially and show whatever the brake setting is at then goes blank (should have a red dot at all times while connected to trailer and display the pressure when pedal is pressed).
It will show display when manually pressed on controller but doesn't actually apply brakes...
Thinking there's something squirrelly going on with the 7 way cable, voltage or ground issue?

 

Only connection to the 7 way is thru the blue wire for the brakes , and thru the red wire to turn on the lights

With the controller disconnected, you could apply power to the blue wire to see if the trailer brakes come on -- jack one of the trailer wheels, and have a helper rotate the tire
Putting power on the red wire should light the brake lights -- the controller does this when you use the manual button

Are you getting power and ground on the Black and White wires at the connector to the controller ?

 

Update. I was able to get 'trailer connected' display (red dot) by slowly maneuvering the plug connection from truck to trailer. As I was doing that, the running lights also went on and off randomly. It's been difficult to get the lights and the brake controller powered up at the same time and I'm wondering if all the teeth coming out from the plug are simply not all making contact to the female trailer plug...
I looked for a main ground contact, but I don't readily see it...
Does anyone know if there is a main ground for the trailer plug and where it's located?

As long as it's not a grounding issue, I'm ready to throw a hail Mary at replacing the 7 way plug.

 

Yeah, that plug is gone
Supposed to be fastened to the rear bumper anyways -- and I can barely see under the tape job a bare green wire -- need to remove all that tape and see what is going on under there
Likely you will fix a lot of your problems with just addressing the loose and bare wires


What is that roll of wire next to the trailer plugs ?

 

That wire is just my backup camera excess.

 

You need to baseline this hot mess express before you throw anymore parts at it, starting with the replacement of that hamburger patty that you call a 7 way harness.

 

🤣 It wasn't me, I swear... 🤣
There is a stock replacement for this then? So it can be mounted to the bumper again?
And holy sh*t, it does look like a hot mess. Pretty surprised I was able to get power to everything else all along.

 

I shop at etrailer.com, but yes you can replace that and get it mounted.

 

Tractor Supply has the plug and most any truck stop also
Need to strip back more tape and get rid of those Scotch Lock taps -- they are bad

 

This thing was all wired up DIY while in the original owners possession, there's nothing OEM about this trailer harness.
I thought I could do this myself but it's just been one thing after another. I bought another plug and installed a new bracket but as I started uncovering more tape, it just looks like more wiring and electrical boogering knowledge that I'm used to.

Is there any company that does these as a service?

 

Gotta love some hack job -- just discover all kinds of "fun" stuff in the process
There should be a trailer tow connector on the truck harness near the rear of the bed (also some near the front for 5th wheel), that the trailer plug harness connects into -- now, I do not know if this is on all trucks but I think, yes

You can make up the part of harness that goes from the trailer plug to the truck harness -- A trailer 6 (ground can be done at the plug) or 7 wire cable is available at any trailer shop - truck stop - or make one up from single wires
plenty of wiring diagrams on the webs, so you get the right wire in the right spot on the plug -- color does not matter, but is helpful for later if you need to replace the plug again, and forget which wire goes where
a simple test light grounded to the truck will help locate which wire on the truck harness is "hot" -- like for left turn, rt turn, tail, etc.

 

Yeah. I mean, I can splice wires and I'm not afraid to crimp new connections, but when you suggested (Hydro) that I remove all the Scotch tabs, those things are all over the place and they run high up the harness. I do not have an OEM connection to the back of the plug, so I bought an RV plug with wire terminals.

 

Scotch connectors are evil -- only good for short term, because they will fail -- not a question of if, is a question of when

I have not seen your actual situation, so it is easy to say how easy the wiring job is, from this side of the keyboard
I do apologize if I come off a little gruff on this stuff -- most of the stuff on these forums comes easy for me

That connector you bought should do fine -- the truck harness should have a plug on it, or splice into the harness
You have the trailer connector in the cab, so should have the correct wires in the truck harness as well

Maybe one of the guys will chime in on the truck harness situation -- I am not sure if the factory tow package made a difference in the truck harness

 

This thing was wired from the engine out, it was a rebuild more or less. I know he towed with it, but he used a gooseneck with a connection through the bedliner. I haven't seen what it looks like at that connection. I'll send some pics tomorrow of what I'm looking at

 

Any one know wth this style connector is outgoing to the trailer connection? I don't see any plug and play harness or any trailer plug adapter that has this connection. FML. I've seen it mentioned as C410 but I still can't verify that or find anything with it. It's got 6 different posts or pins inside.

 

I think that is the plug for the in bed 7 way.