have you checked ebay for a used one? Or maybe rent or borrow one? Or have a welder make one? I agree $500 is a lot for a very limited use tool. Hopefully you can find a less expensive alternative.

 

I've checked for used tools/ brackets on ebay but haven't found anything less than $500 as of yet. I was hoping there was another method of lifting the engine without having to remove the turbo. If I must use the turbo pedestal holes for lifting, I've thought about buying a used turbo pedestal (or using my seized engines) and then welding a lifting eye onto it.

 

I would pay someone if it were me, but I applaud you for doing it yourself. A part of me wants to question using the pedestal to lift a what, 1000lb motor? I wouldn't hesitate trying it on a junk motor but your replacement? Just seems like the bolts are a bit undersized for the task... I'm sure it could probably do it but I'd cringe the whole time til it hit the mounts...

There isn't another location?

 

If you purchase a remanufactured engine assembly from Ford, it should come with lifting brackets that are bolted to the block on the left front and right rear. These are only usable for removal and installation if the cab is off otherwise the engine lifting bracket mounted where the turbocharger goes is highly recommended. Those brackets must be returned with the engine core. Picture taken from the rear of the engine.

 

If you purchase a remanufactured engine assembly from Ford, it should come with lifting brackets that are bolted to the block on the left front and right rear. These are only usable for removal and installation if the cab is off otherwise the engine lifting bracket mounted where the turbocharger goes is highly recommended. Those brackets must be returned with the engine core. Picture taken from the rear of the engine.

View attachment 792083

Thank you, these are exactly what I’d be looking for. This would allow me to not have to remove the turbo to use the special tool (purchased or fabricated). The only issue is I am buying a very low mileage used 2015 engine to install, and it doesn’t include these brackets (because it’s not a factory remanufacture). Does anyone know the part number for these two brackets (green arrows in picture above). I may have to buy them. I can also fabricate them if I knew dimensions/ block mounting location.

 

I'm a 6.0L guy, so no experience here.

I'm going to say I feel your pain. I ran into a similar situation when looking for a lift bracket for the 6.0L. I got so frustrated at prices in the $200 to $300 range I came up with kits that people could buy to weld on their own from $45 to $125 depending on the complexity of what someone wanted.

The turbo bracket might be fine to lift with, but without knowing the alloy and dimensions, it would be hard for anyone to say it could be utilized. The biggest issue here for someone without a machine shop is the situation of the bolts being angled. One 8mm 10.9 bolt has enough strength to support 1,000 lbs under it, but any side loading of a bolt greatly reduces its lifting ability due to the angular (bending) factor.

The factory bracket works because it's drilled to the angle, and the bending load is taken by the plate rather than the bolts.

I have no idea what size those four bracket mount bolts are. If someone wanted to spend the time grinding the sides of a 1/2"or 3/4" plate to the perpendicular angle of the bolts, you could use a simple drill press to drill the through holes at the proper angle. The eye bolt situation is easy. They use a 16mm eyebolt with a lifting capacity of ~3,500lbs, but the quality of the threads in the plate matter.

My kits; just for reference.

 

I'm a 6.0L guy, so no experience here.

I'm going to say I feel your pain. I ran into a similar situation when looking for a lift bracket for the 6.0L. I got so frustrated at prices in the $200 to $300 range I came up with kits that people could buy to weld on their own from $45 to $125 depending on the complexity of what someone wanted.

The turbo bracket might be fine to lift with, but without knowing the alloy and dimensions, it would be hard for anyone to say it could be utilized. The biggest issue here for someone without a machine shop is the situation of the bolts being angled. One 8mm 10.9 bolt has enough strength to support 1,000 lbs under it, but any side loading of a bolt greatly reduces its lifting ability due to the angular (bending) factor.

The factory bracket works because it's drilled to the angle, and the bending load is taken by the plate rather than the bolts.

View attachment 792084

I have no idea what size those four bracket mount bolts are. If someone wanted to spend the time grinding the sides of a 1/2"or 3/4" plate to the perpendicular angle of the bolts, you could use a simple drill press to drill the through holes at the proper angle. The eye bolt situation is easy. They use a 16mm eyebolt with a lifting capacity of ~3,500lbs, but the quality of the threads in the plate matter.

My kits; just for reference.

View attachment 792085 View attachment 792086 View attachment 792087

Thank you, I appreciate the pictures and details on your bracket. They look great. If I’m unable to get the brackets indicated in the green arrows in the previous post, then I’ll look at making a lifting bracket with plate using your recommendations. I’m going to have the cab off, so I’m hoping I can purchase or fabricate the two brackets indicated in green arrows above.

 

$733 seems way steep for a flat plate lifting tool
the angled holes are not that hard to drill

 

I’m only making the 6.0 brackets because I think the shops who are selling them are ripping people off. I’m not a business, I flipping these out of my house while retired to give people a reasonable option. The simple bracket and no options are $45, $10 of which is shipping. These can be 3/8” steel as the bolts are 90 degrees to the plate. Yours might need to be 1/2 to 3/4” plate because of the bolt angles needing the countersink.

You mentioned the cab will be off, so you have a lot of options. Guys are using mine with the cab on and grill in place, so they need something centered and low.

But with the factory brackets, or fabricated ones like them, you should use a spreader bar so the chain load is direct above, IMO. If you have the chain at an angle, there would be more stress on the bolts, more than the already by the angle. It might be fine; I don’t know what’s working at the dealerships.

 

I don’t know what’s working at the dealerships.

For me the specified lifting bracket. Most of the 6.7L engines I have to remove that cab cannot come off. I pull the cooling stack (because it only takes about 1/2 hour to get it out) and do a partial cab lift, about 4" at the front engine mounts. That give a lot of room to get around the top of the engine without removing the cowl and I essentially strip the engine accessories, intakes, EGR cooler and turbo before yanking. I actually prefer doing engines this way now as my days of climbing over the engine bent over are about done. I still have a spine and I want to keep it that way!

 

Thanks, Keith. So it sounds like it's common for the people at the dealership level not to use the OTC bracket. Probably the shops that rebuild engines rather than use a Ford reman swap, I'd guess.

 

Not sure what you mean. "Specified bracket" means the Ford plate adapter.

 

I misunderstood what you said in post #5, as though you were using only the twin brackets. My brain is currently fried on meds to try to clear up my sinus issues before the last resort, surgery.

 

I called the Ford Dealer, and you were absolutely spot on. These are not for sale and not easily obtained elseware.

Ford Doctor: If its not too much trouble, can I please have a couple closer pictures as to where those brackets (green arrows pointing to) bolt into the block?

I'm a welder, and could pretty easily weld up some similar strong brackets (if I knew where Ford engineers intended for reman blocks to be lifted) Attached are some 1/2" thick lifting brackets I made today for another project.

Thank you