So, just want to shed some light on Body Mounts for 2008-2010 F250/350.
Daystar mount kit doesn't include hardware (bushings), and encourages you to reuse the old hardware. Chances are if this is your 1st mount replacements on a 2008-2010 PSD, you should not attempt to just reuse the old hardware, get a set of factory (200.00).
****If you're on a budget and you need to save that 200.00, add a 22mm (cheap) flare nut wrench, a handheld propane torch (with trigger), a 20+ inch breaker bar, and a 7/8" bi-metal hole saw with a 3/8" bit (long shank or you will have to grind the back of the hole saw bit flush).
You will also need:
Replacement cab mount set (8 mounts upper and lowers)
bench grinder
bench vice
2 floor jacks
1-8' 2x4
1/4 inch drive set (metric)
1/2" drive set (metric)
1/2" torque wrench
Multiple pry bars, screwdrivers
4+ lb sledge
2bungy straps
Panel popper tool
1can PB thrust
Anti-seize
***air chisel is optional
The 2x4's are to make an "I" that will help you fill in the gap between your jack and the cab body.
1st step: remove the headlights (4 bolts each) and use bungy straps to hold them out of your way
2nd step: remove black rubber splash guard from behind passenger headlight - this enables you to look into the bottom channel with a flashlight to make sure the cage nut is still intact - driver's side does not have one.
3rd step: spray PB thrust into the space where the nuts are for mount 1(radiator mounts), let it set for 20 minutes.
Step 4: take the handheld torch and heat the nut cage in the channel - try to avoid heating up the plastic radiator support. Heat it up for at least a minute- Ford used some terrible loctite on all of these nuts and you will need to heat them with a torch to remove them without damaging the cage nuts.
Step 5: take the breaker bar with a 15mm 1/2" drive socket and try to remove the front bolts. Remember the nuts are only being held in place by a flimsy metal cage that you can bend and that's bad news if you have t figured that out already. If the bolts don't turn for you don't just crank on them, more heat, more PB thrust.
Step 6: Repeat the previous steps for the 3 passenger bolts and remove them completely. You will do this same thing for the driver's side bolts. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH SIDES!!! The driver's side you will only loosen so the cab will not shift when you jack up the one side to remove old mounts.
Step 7: attempt to remove the lowers on the passenger side 4 bolts. Chances are 2 of 4 will be too far compressed and the hole saw with 3/8 bit will allow you to cut the bottom bushing off to basically make a washer that will hold your new lower mount in place when it goes back together.
Step 8: find the support places under the cab and use the jacks and the wood "I" you made to slowly and EVENLY lift up passenger side to remove the upper mounts. PLEASE make sure you did not remove the driver's side bolts, only loosened them a little bit.
Step 9: clean up all of the old bushings, removing rubber and Foam (yeah Ford is cheap and used foam on 1/2 of the mounts). Replace the foam/rubber with the new mounts and put them back together. Place upper on the truck frame.
Step 10: clean the bolt threads and before reinstalling coat with anti-seize.
Step 11: slowly lower the cab back down until it is 1/4" above the bushings and thread each bolt back in the holes. Take the 15mm and thread the bolts back up 1/2". Lower the cab all the way back down. Turn bolts up until they are 1/4" from the bottom bushing.
Step 12: remove all driver's side bolts (PASSENGER SIDE are slightly loose but most of the way in!). Repeat steps 7-11 on Driver's side.
Step 13: tighten all bolts to 50 lbs with a torque wrench. Once all bolts are 50 lbs, tighten the bolts to 65 lbs. remember cage nuts are a disaster to work with so don't jerk on them, slow consistent pressure is safer.
Step 14: replace rubber by driver's side headlight and then install headlights.
****If you the radiator cage nuts fail, the 22mm flare nut wrench will need to be ground down to 3/8" thick and will need to be bent in the vice to fit the angle to hold the nuts for the uppers.
**** the sledge will allow you to bang out stubborn mounts if you don't have an air chisel.
**** having brand new hardware eliminates the need to be careful with the bushings. And that is awesome!
**** I would recommend retorquing the bolts after 50 miles and then with the next oil change to make sure they are adequately snugged.
If you have troubles and need help, reply to the thread and I will try to give you some support....and good luck! I can take pictures of the 22mm wrench if you struggle with that and post them here.
Daystar mount kit doesn't include hardware (bushings), and encourages you to reuse the old hardware. Chances are if this is your 1st mount replacements on a 2008-2010 PSD, you should not attempt to just reuse the old hardware, get a set of factory (200.00).
****If you're on a budget and you need to save that 200.00, add a 22mm (cheap) flare nut wrench, a handheld propane torch (with trigger), a 20+ inch breaker bar, and a 7/8" bi-metal hole saw with a 3/8" bit (long shank or you will have to grind the back of the hole saw bit flush).
You will also need:
Replacement cab mount set (8 mounts upper and lowers)
bench grinder
bench vice
2 floor jacks
1-8' 2x4
1/4 inch drive set (metric)
1/2" drive set (metric)
1/2" torque wrench
Multiple pry bars, screwdrivers
4+ lb sledge
2bungy straps
Panel popper tool
1can PB thrust
Anti-seize
***air chisel is optional
The 2x4's are to make an "I" that will help you fill in the gap between your jack and the cab body.
1st step: remove the headlights (4 bolts each) and use bungy straps to hold them out of your way
2nd step: remove black rubber splash guard from behind passenger headlight - this enables you to look into the bottom channel with a flashlight to make sure the cage nut is still intact - driver's side does not have one.
3rd step: spray PB thrust into the space where the nuts are for mount 1(radiator mounts), let it set for 20 minutes.
Step 4: take the handheld torch and heat the nut cage in the channel - try to avoid heating up the plastic radiator support. Heat it up for at least a minute- Ford used some terrible loctite on all of these nuts and you will need to heat them with a torch to remove them without damaging the cage nuts.
Step 5: take the breaker bar with a 15mm 1/2" drive socket and try to remove the front bolts. Remember the nuts are only being held in place by a flimsy metal cage that you can bend and that's bad news if you have t figured that out already. If the bolts don't turn for you don't just crank on them, more heat, more PB thrust.
Step 6: Repeat the previous steps for the 3 passenger bolts and remove them completely. You will do this same thing for the driver's side bolts. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH SIDES!!! The driver's side you will only loosen so the cab will not shift when you jack up the one side to remove old mounts.
Step 7: attempt to remove the lowers on the passenger side 4 bolts. Chances are 2 of 4 will be too far compressed and the hole saw with 3/8 bit will allow you to cut the bottom bushing off to basically make a washer that will hold your new lower mount in place when it goes back together.
Step 8: find the support places under the cab and use the jacks and the wood "I" you made to slowly and EVENLY lift up passenger side to remove the upper mounts. PLEASE make sure you did not remove the driver's side bolts, only loosened them a little bit.
Step 9: clean up all of the old bushings, removing rubber and Foam (yeah Ford is cheap and used foam on 1/2 of the mounts). Replace the foam/rubber with the new mounts and put them back together. Place upper on the truck frame.
Step 10: clean the bolt threads and before reinstalling coat with anti-seize.
Step 11: slowly lower the cab back down until it is 1/4" above the bushings and thread each bolt back in the holes. Take the 15mm and thread the bolts back up 1/2". Lower the cab all the way back down. Turn bolts up until they are 1/4" from the bottom bushing.
Step 12: remove all driver's side bolts (PASSENGER SIDE are slightly loose but most of the way in!). Repeat steps 7-11 on Driver's side.
Step 13: tighten all bolts to 50 lbs with a torque wrench. Once all bolts are 50 lbs, tighten the bolts to 65 lbs. remember cage nuts are a disaster to work with so don't jerk on them, slow consistent pressure is safer.
Step 14: replace rubber by driver's side headlight and then install headlights.
****If you the radiator cage nuts fail, the 22mm flare nut wrench will need to be ground down to 3/8" thick and will need to be bent in the vice to fit the angle to hold the nuts for the uppers.
**** the sledge will allow you to bang out stubborn mounts if you don't have an air chisel.
**** having brand new hardware eliminates the need to be careful with the bushings. And that is awesome!
**** I would recommend retorquing the bolts after 50 miles and then with the next oil change to make sure they are adequately snugged.
If you have troubles and need help, reply to the thread and I will try to give you some support....and good luck! I can take pictures of the 22mm wrench if you struggle with that and post them here.
