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4" Front Lift Question

2.1K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Karls03  
#1 ·
I just bought an 01 F350 and right now it has a 2" front pro comp lift spring and I want to change the springs to a 4". If i go to the 4" do I need to do a trac bar bracket and pitman arm as well?
 
#2 ·
That or an adjustable tracbar
 
#3 ·
I'd do a 2in hanger kit and adj track bar. That would be a good cost effective route. And you can get your axle recentered. If you already have the adjustable track bar you're good to go.
 
#4 ·
I would ditch the pro comp springs in favor of most any other spring
 
#5 ·
I'd agree depending on op's budget. If ride quality is a concern, I would stick to oem springs and 4in hanger kit.
This is what I did on mine.
 
#6 ·
I agree with that
 
#7 ·
i was planning on ditching the springs and going to a set of Icon 4" springs and shocks.

So all i would need would be an adjustable trac bar and i should be good to go?
 
#8 ·
sounds like a solid plan and yes
 
#9 ·
I agree with scparrish
Possibly longer shocks depending on your current shocks.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Better late than never.

The problem with a longer (adjustable) track bar is that a track bar travels in an arc, longer the bar bigger the arc. In a coil sprung application (or on a concrete four wheeler for that matter) it's not that big of a deal because the coils will let the axle move to the right under compression and to the left during extension. Leaf springs want to move the axle straight up and down.

That being said, a drop bracket is the best answer over 2" of lift. Because the drop bracket needs to be parallel to the drag link, a dropped pitman arm works best with said bracket. 4" is a lot to ask of the drag link so get a pitman arm.

As far as sway bar links go, flip the mount to the bottom of the frame and reuse the links. That's what Rough Country suggests with their 4" lift and it works.

Finally, I like my Pro Comp front springs. While they are firm, they aren't as stiff as the Icon/BDS price is.

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#12 ·
I do not fully understand the track bar deal... it could be because I'm tired. From what I remember while lifting my truck, even with leaf springs the axle shifts a lot during suspension cycle.
I was not aware that drop pitman and bracket would be better.
With 5inches of lift up front roughly, my adj trac bar and drag link are pretty darn close to parallel. I'll have to check the angle of the drag link rod end though but I thought it was still at a good angle with the pitman arm.
I guess in my case its not as big a deal cause its a dually and wont see much off street use where it will flex/ articulate the suspension/truck much
 
#13 ·
When I had the add-a-leaf/hanger lift I didn't get the dropped pitman arm in the kit at the same time. After some research I extended my drag link to minimum safe thread engagement (I forgot that number) and my steering wheel was still tilted (stooped word filter doesn't like the work cauked) to the right. Once the pitman arm was swapped, all was good.

The track bar swings in an arc, the leafs want to move straight up and down. The leafs will twist to maintain axle pad angle, but they physically can't move side to side enough to match a longer track bar. Sooner or later, the leafs and the track bar will bind. This is probably why the Super Duty went coils in 2005 and never looked back.

Ours is one of few vehicles that uses leaf springs with a track bar. Normally, track bars are only used on coil suspensions (called a panhard bar) to prevent side to side movement, such as in cornering.

For best results, keep the drag link and track bar at the same angle. If you use a drop bracket on one, use a matching drop bracket on the other. If using a longer track bar, then you need to have that much length available in your drag link adjustment.

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#14 ·
Ok, I thought I would have to do a drop bracket and pitman arm as well. I had already planned on it that is the original reason I asked. Hopefully gonna get this done soon, just trying to find the cheapest way to do it while still using the Icon springs. I get a good deal on the springs through a buddy
 
#17 ·
You do need a dropped pitman arm and track bar bracket. You can mount the sway bar mounts to the bottom of the frame. This negates the need for longer sway bar links.

Doing it on the cheap is one thing, cutting corners at the expense of safety is another.

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