Well, headed down to the dealership to get numbers on a 2025 F-350 Crew Long Bed to ponder. Didn't start out well, Sales guy made a bold move to sell $1,000 off MSRP. I stayed calm and just matter of factly countered that wasn't competitive and wouldn't waste any more of their time and stood up. That was followed by let me talk to my manager and see what we can do. I replied that sounded fine to me and sat down again. They came back with $7,000 off MSRP, which did include a $2,000 coupon I didn't know about. They came back with a stellar offer on my trade.

So, now mama and I are having a conversation.

 

We bought ours, a 2024 SB CC, 6.7 SO, Lariat, with the Lariat Ultimate package in January of this year. The sticker was $91K and we were able to get it for 8.5% off of that. Like you, they gave me top dollar for my 22 Ram EcoDiesel Limited (loved that truck, I'll buy another when I get a little more cash). Good luck! We are really enjoying the F350.

 

A short background; I bought a 99 new (31K) and had it 16 years and sold it at 311,000 miles ($12K), great truck, but going deaf!

Since then Ive purchased 5 new F-350 loaded 4X4's (Live in Colorado), for hauling heavy loads.
I have never finalized a deal until the dealer has dropped at least $10K off the price. The dealer has his own "discounts" that they allow on most sales to knowledgeable buyers, but not a lot of people know that the dealer also gets a Kickback from the factory that is not seen in the paperwork. This kickback is up or down depending on how many vehicles the dealer sells. So when the sales guy tells you he can't go any lower because he has to feed his kids, he's not giving you the whole picture.

I never go in and tell the dealer that he must drop 10K off the price or I'm leaving, just shuts them down. I always give the dealer the true impression that I need this truck, that I want this truck, but I still need to replace the roof on my house this year or braces for the kid; giving the dealer a reason (no need to lie, everyone has needs), gives them a reason to work with you.

I'm always more knowledgeable than the sales person. I always reach out to dealers within a 300 mile radius for their input. I always go to Auto-trader, or Truck-trader type web sites and see what the truck I'm purchasing is going for across the county. We've purchased three vehicles from out of state, a Jeep from Florida person, a Jeep from a dealer in Chicago, and a 15 SD DRW in Louisiana from a dealer, all good deals. By the time that research is complete I have two options out of state to finalize a deal, and Then I go to My Dealer, not before. When I enter the dealers showroom I don't let the first sales guy come up to me, I ask for the manager. I tell them I'm purchasing X and would like the most knowledgeable Sales Rep for that vehicle and I'm hoping we can make a deal today. This signals to the dealer that you are a viable purchaser and mean business. I'm always respectful even if the dealer can't get to my known to me sales number.

After the purchasing of the 15 SD, I then purchased a 17 SD, two 19 SD's. and finally landed on the 21 SD that I still have. On the 21 SD my local dealer, who had sold me all but the 15 unit could not meet my sales price so I thanked him and left. I told him I will get home and finalize a deal I have on the table on my computer. I live 30 minutes from home and he knows this, when I was pulling into the drive lane of my ranch he called me and said, "its a deal, come on back, we'll stay open for you". Deal Done.

Remember, the dealer gets his kickbacks from the factory rated by how many vehicles he sells, I believe the dealer sold this at close to his cost to add the truck to his total sales number. I know my sales guy very well and believed him when he made that statement.

It's all about homework and best to you, Rick

PS, On a 90K plus truck I would not buy until the discount is over the 10K number, the higher the MSRP the more room there is to give.

 

Dealer factory sales incentives are quarterly and yearly. So, for a customer to take advantage, the dealer has to be close enough to hitting it to really make a couple of sweet deals. If they have already hit it, no sweet deals.

 

No offense here Rick, but you can’t say you don’t care and then say you purchase from a high volume where you are clearly a repeat customer.

You have that power because they care more about service than the sales, I would say you definitely have the upper hand over someone walking in off the street which is Weather Man’s scenario.

 

No offense here Rick, but you can’t say you don’t care and then say you purchase from a high volume where you are clearly a repeat customer.

You have that power because they care more about service than the sales, I would say you definitely have the upper hand over someone walking in off the street which is Weather Man’s scenario.

Hey Heavy, I understand your point, but if that was the case, then how do you explain that on every truck purchase I make I first go to other dealers across the nation, and am approaching them from the absolute get go where they have no knowledge of who I am, and still come away with a fantastic deal, written up, and ready to close? I truly believe if you present yourself as an honest possible purchaser, of which I do and am, and have proven because I've purchased vehicles from across the nation, and you get to know the sales person well, always respond back in a timely and professional manner, you will build this trust and close a great deal. In any case, I always appreciate your input HeavyG!

 

I want to add a few more points to how I purchase a new, or used for that matter, vehicle. In this case new Super Duty's.

I always put together an Excel report that completely details the exact items I want the dealer to price. That way they can't get a lower price and I'm thinking everything is included, I check their pricing sheet against my list every time as I've had some dealers remove an item, and call it a mistake when I correct them, to lower their price point.

I usually pay cash for these trucks, but but I don't believe it makes a difference. From my experience it doesn't seem to matter how they get paid. I generally tell them I have cash available to pay for the truck but may choose their lending options for special pricing, 6 months no interest, etc. On three occasions I was allowed an extra grand off the prices if I choose their lending and I'm contracted to maintain the loan for a minimum of 90 days. I will run that and then pay the truck off, with no harm, no foul.

I always find all the information I can on the final closing of the deal, before I complete with the sales person. Any extra items like a clear coat finish sealant, or interior sealant product? Do I want to pay for the extended full service program or not? I don't usually. I do however always purchase the extended warranty as the electronics in these trucks can be very expensive to repair. I'm 76 with a good retired income, but still need to control my spending. I've had good luck with this program, I know some have not. Basically I don't want any surprises when I get to the management closing room.

I know and appreciate that some will have had different experiences, no worries on that, I'm always looking for new knowledge. My notes are based on the experiences I've had, and done well on closing good deals. Good Luck, Rick

 

I also take the time to create excel spreadsheets. It really helps in keeping everyone on the same page during negotiations. I pay cash for my vehicles too; but like you will finance when it is to my advantage or zero percent. We just purchased a new RV that we had to finance to get the price point that they were offering, and it is a higher interest rate loan. The day after we sign the papers, we make a cash payment and leave a balance equal to the 6 remaining payments required under the agreement reducing the interest owed to a couple of hundred bucks (did this on our last RV too).

 

That’s great insight, Rick.