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2012 F250 w/ Factory Nav and Sub Speaker Upgrade

21K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  wh-7  
#1 · (Edited)
I have had my F250 for a couple of years now and have always though t the so called "Premium Sound System" is not so premium. It has been over 15 years since I did my own system install. I figured on my lack of knowledge on the new components and new vehicle complexities, that I would go to a local audio shop and have them do the install for me. Well after getting pricing from the local shops, I must have missed something over the past several years, because retail pricing and installation pricing for a base system have gone up quite a bit. I want to keep my factory nav and upgrade the speaker system. I was not looking for top of the line but something that sounds decent. After speaking with the local audio shops in my area over the past week and getting quotes from $4500 and up for a 5 channel amp, components in front and 2 way 5x7 in rear, single 10" or 12" sub w/ box, and LC7I to make the system work correctly, I decided that I could do the job for at least half that.

With all the research I have done and thanks to the forums there is tons of info on how to do the install correctly. But most have been lacking pictures. I will be installing my system in stages on the next couple of weeks and documenting the process with pictures to help the next guy out.

After getting my hands on the wiring diagram I have traced all the wires down over the past couple of days. The first problem I ran into was running new speaker wires to the front doors. I do not want to drill into the molex connection in the door frame. Too many horror stories. After a couple of hours trying to figure out how to drill new holes without removing the door this is what I came up with. I was able to drill new holes in the door and frame without getting in any kind of a bind. Because i was drilling on a slight angle I used a punch to mark (dent slightly) where I was going to drill and used a small bit to create a pilot hole and gradually stepped up to a large drill bit until I got the desired hole size.

While waiting for my components to come in over the next week, I plan on pre-wiring everything so that the hard part will be done.

Will post more info through my install progress.
 

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#2 ·
Looking forward to it. Any particular reason you didn't want to swap out the oem head unit? Just doing that alone will help with sound quality especially since everything's being upgraded.
 
#3 ·
That was the original intention but after looking for replacement nav units, it was going to cost me anywhere from $1200 to $1600 plus and additional $200 for the harnesses for sync, bluetooth, and steering wheel controls by the time you add taxes I would have been at $2000. Really did not want to spend that just for a new head unit and I was not really that unhappy with the factory nav unit. As I understand, the factory head unit is decent it is just the sound processing that is garbage and with an LC7I by audiocontrol I can clean that signal up quite a bit and have a signal to feed the 5 channel amp nicely. Will be receiving product this week and next to complete the install. Again I could have spent $5000 plus on system but I really just wanted a decent clean budget system. All in I will be less than $1200.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Looks good, great job on the doors. I will add that I prefer the Audio Control DQ-61, it is a much better unit, has time delay and compensates for the "bass compression" at higher volumes that the factory head unit does. If you haven't chosen an amp yet I have a ARC 900.6 half retail and Zapco DC series amps (built in DSP6) and HI/LO converting transmitters that would eliminate the need for any Audio Control product. The DSP is awesome. What wires did you pull signal from?
 
#10 ·
Had planned on completing my install this past weekend but after wiring everything up my amp was DOA. Will have to wait until next weekend. Did however put some sound proofing down. I am too cheap to buy dynamat or something like it. I was not going to use the Peel n Seal that I have seen some people using due to the smell and asphalt based glue. Did not want to chance the asphalt melting and or dripping in the heat. I was reading on some corvette forums that quite a bit of folks have been using some HVAC duct self adhesive insulation that has been working well for them. Go to lowes.com and the sku# is 28929. Seems to be working great. I noticed a huge difference in how much quieter the truck is.
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#12 ·
First amp I installed was DOA. I had to wait for the replacement to come in. Replacement came in this past week and was planning on finishing up the install this weekend but ended up throwing out my back Friday. Damn the luck! Will have to wait a couple of weeks for my back to heal up before I will be able to pull the rear seat out myself. Fortunately I had an older mono amp I was able to hook up to the sub and just ran my replacement door speakers directly from the factory head unit in the mean time. I had no experience with Pioneer subs until this unit and man I am impressed. Yes I could have used the JL-13TW5v2-4 and spent 500-600 for a sub but why? The Pioneer TS-SW3002S4 12" is only $100. I'm sure the JL doesn't sound that much better or hit that much harder and if it does well I am building a budget system. All in all my total system build will be less than $1000 when my local shops wanted 4000-6000k (insane) depending on shop. Although with all this extra time, I am contemplating a new deck. Thinking about upgrading to Pioneer AVIC-7100NEX!!! Decisions decisions.
 
#13 ·
Finally finished the install! Half way through I decided not to keep the factory nav. After considering the cost of the components needed to keep the factory nav, stepping up to an aftermarket was not much more. The install was not as bad as I thought it would be and well worth the savings by doing it myself. Listed Below are the components used:

1. Pioneer AVIC-6100 NEX Receiver
2. KnuKonceptz 8 Gauge OFC Amp Kit
3. 2 Additional 17ft RCA Cables
4. Power Acoustik BAMF4500/5D 5-Channel Amplifier
6. Metra XSVI-5520-NAV Harness (Does not retain steering wheel controls additional adapter needed for steering wheel controls)
7. Metra 95-5812 Double Din Installation Kit
8. Metra 82-5600 Door Speaker Adapters (Front Doors)
9. Polk Audio DB571 (Rear Speakers)
10. Polk Audio DB5251 5 1/4" components (Front Speakers)
11. Pioneer TS-SW3002S4 12" Shallow Mount Sub
12. Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter.
13. RCA Male Plug to Positive and Negative wire http://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Male-Cable/dp/B003U44LA8 (used for backup camera tie in to factory harness. Factory harness is 10 pin with only three pins used. White w/ Green Stripe is positive and Brown w/ Violet Stripe is negative for camera and the single black wire is the shield wire. Camera is powered from factory at the reverse lights)
14. Custom built speaker box for single 12"

If I was going to keep the factory deck I would have needed the Audio Control LC7i Converter (~$125), PAC Audio MS-FRD1 Interface (~$120), and PAC Audio SWI-RC Interface (~$40) for a total ~$285 and lets not forget the headaches of tapping into the factory harnesses for the LC7i to work properly.

Complete Installed system cost less than $1300 and sounds amazing. Exactly what I wanted. Custom audio shops quoted $4500-$6000, I would say it was worth it to do myself. I could have selected better components but I really wanted to try to build a budget system. This was a great build.

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My dumb a$$ forgot to take pics before I put my seats back in. Will remove them later and take more pics. The amp is mounted where the jack use to be. Just using a carpeted piece of MDF with an L Bracket attached.

Project took a little longer than anticipated for multiple reasons and in the process i also upgraded my Cold side Intercooler Pipe to the Mishimoto Replacement (no more factory cheap plastic) and changed out all my shocks to Bilstein 5100 (did not think they would make as much of a difference as they did).

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Strongly suggest all modifications!
 
#16 ·
Awesome build and documentation, I saw a pioneer that had apple play that allowed the phone to sync and display iTunes and nav Maps I saw it at Best Buy was this head unit comparable to it in cost ? I've got an XL so no steering wheel controls no sync so looking for something to take care of hands free stuff, I have a back up camera but it's wired and has a garmin like display, I drive a lot for work it's a company truck but free to upgrade for "safety" purposes
skycrane:

Steering wheel controls is just an additional module for the Metra wire harness. If you call Metra and give them the model number I have listed above they will tell you which additional part you need. I believe the cost is around $50 for the additional part.

H&E:

Not sure which unit you say at Bestbuy, but this unit does have the carplay and will give you the handsfree options you are looking for.

Anyone looking to to get any audio equipment for you vehicle email me a info@voodoodiesel.com I can get you taken care of.
 
#15 ·
Awesome build and documentation, I saw a pioneer that had apple play that allowed the phone to sync and display iTunes and nav Maps I saw it at Best Buy was this head unit comparable to it in cost ? I've got an XL so no steering wheel controls no sync so looking for something to take care of hands free stuff, I have a back up camera but it's wired and has a garmin like display, I drive a lot for work it's a company truck but free to upgrade for "safety" purposes
 
#17 ·
For steering wheel control, I used the Metra ASWC-1 in my 2013 Tacoma and it auto-detected the Toyota + the Pioneer (App Radio 3 at that time). EZ.

I'll do something similar to what you did in my 2012. I hate the stock headunit and I desire better sound. I have the same premium crap in my Lariat Ultimate, but its far from premium :)