Heres the link to the video...

I appreciate all the help i have received from the ORG. so hopefully this will help someone else out and in some small way contribute back from all i have gotten! Thanks guys...and if your dealing with this issue...GOOD LUCK!!

 

Thanks Jeremy, 100 bucks is 100 bucks and that is almost two tanks of fuel, where I live.
Doug

 

AGREED! Honestly, there wasn't much to it...i think most anyone with the torx bit and a soldering iron could fix it right up. Even if you had to buy the tools you would save big money! Anyway, i'd be glad to help anyone out with this if i can.

 

That is awesome my friend! I checked everything in line also and thanks to your video I'm going to tear into the module itself to see if I can find this. Did you just hit it with a hot soldering iron for a second to reconnect the joint? I've checked the connectors for corrosion, wiring even through the frame, and nada fixed it. As soon as I get a minute I'll check mine out and post back!

 

I tried to just reflow the solder but it didn't look right so i basically removed their solder and put new in its place. If i were you, i would try reflowing it first. Please post back if you find the bad solder joint to be in the same place as mine...i say that because i'm thinking this is the issue on most of them. Also, keep in mind the exact issues i was having..."TBC Fault" in the message center on every start up, The code listed above, no trailer brakes and my lights and gain controls still worked in the TBC itself. I think these are the specific issues associated with the bad solder joint. If other issues are present or any of these missing...my fix might not be the problem. Good luck with your TBC...i know how aggrivating this can be so i SURE hope this fixes it for ya!

 

My symptoms are exactly the same except I don't have a trailer with electronic brakes anymore to test if that part works. I know my utility trailer lights work (brake, park, turn) when hooked into the 4 prong smaller plug. Ill try to get it out tonight and take a look at it.

 

Well, i had a guy comment on youtube and say that his had the exact same solder joint bad! I bet the greatest majority of these things were bad at that one point! When you guys get to yours...let us know if it was the same...i'm real curious to see how this comes out!

 

Any updates on fixing these things? Just curious if this is the problem most of the time!

 

The guy who commented on the youtube video reported back yesterday and said that the exact same solder joint was bad in his and that reflowing the solder took care of the issue! Man, i am so glad this is working out for some folks...that thing drove me nuts!

 

Just got finished with this repair and now there is no light!!! thanks for this...saved me 200 bucks on a new module!

 

Im going to try to take her out this afternoon after work since I don't have to work my second job today. I'll post up what I find. I hope this is it, the other common problem I found by scouring the interwebs is a short in the wiring/socket/bulb to the third brake light may cause it! I hate tracing shorts so fingers crossed!

 

Thats good to know about the third brake light...never heard that one! Hope you can find your trouble and fix it quick...i love working/fixing things but i get frustrated when the trouble shooting runs deep and long..lol!

 

That wouldn't be a TBC problem, that would be a "why aren't my lights working" problem. :dunno:

 

I think he may have meant that the third brake light not working may cause a TBC Fault message but i don't know. I never heard that one before but nothing surprises me on these trucks any more..lol!

 

I was mostly kidding.

 

My Bad...lol!

 

OK I got the controller out and examined all the soldered joints. Everything looks to be fine, nothing burned or discolored or anything that even looked like a crappy joint. Yeah the third brake light thing I found somewhere and can;t for the life of me remember where... Anyways the fella was trying to figure out his tbc fault and found some kind of short with the bundle of wires that runs along the rear drivers door floor, up the C pillar and over towards the tbl. Now that we've figured out what those mystery boxes were under the dash (It was a KARR alarm system that's not enabled) and the joints are good I guess I'll start pulling the sill plates off and tracing wires. I'm not sure what else to check and I can't find a detailed enough wiring diagram. The one in the 6.0Bible didn't show the TBC.

 

Might be worth getting a scanner to pull the codes for the TBC to see exactly whats going on. I've heard of the transducer on the master cylinder and a wiring harness that passes through the firewall. Keep us updated!

 

Well in a last ditch effort I was searching online to find out where relays were located and which ones they are so I could check them with this recurring issue, lo and behold I found a thread somewhere with the EXACT same symptoms that I have. TBC Fault, radio still on w/ key off door open, no dome lights with key off door open, no ding with key in ignition. Looks like these are all related and can be cured by taking it to a tech and having them reload the "came from factory with_" settings. These issues are usually caused by changing out the cluster without resetting the parameters or maybe it even had a power spike. I thought it was odd that all these problems were showing but diagnosing the sensors kept checking out ok so far. I'm going to try the tech before I chase anymore electrical down. The TBC actually puts out voltage after clearing the fault from the dash so I don't think the controller is faulty. Just wanted to update everyone.

 

I have a similar problem, but different. I get the TBC Fault and it blows the fuse to the brake lights. Going slow it wont blow. But at higher speeds (45+)and a good application of brakes....there she blows and TBC Fault rides again.
Any advice?

 

Sounds like a short to me somewhere in-line... The way I deduced it (and I'm no expert!!!) is the higher speed/more force on brake pedal causes higher voltage signal to go to the trailer brakes. Maybe there is a wire somewhere that has slightly stripped insulation or is crimped?! Sorry I couldn't help more, I literally traced every wire and relay checking them out before I gave up. Reloading the came from factory settings fixed mine but yours sounds more like a wiring or module problem. You could check the wiring/relays with multimeter while someone presses the pedal hard to see if you can find it. (Not sure if that'll work or not but my best guess)

 

Thanks. I should have said no trailer attached.
I was thinking back in the day we had pendulums in our TBC that increased voltage. Is that an electronic function now? Also do you know if the are separate wires to the brake lights on the truck versus the trailer and/or the electric trailer brakes ? Colors? Also when you say trace the wires do you mean by eye and did you pull them out of the loom? or was that with a meter somehow?
I looked them over and pulled the two trailer plugs out and cleaned them per these forums.
Will Ford dealer normally charge a brother to identify the fault?
I should also add that I just attained this monster from an online auction and the Bro before had put a 30 amp fuse in the brake-light slot that is supposed to be a 20 amp...so not a new problem.

 

OK... So The cleaning the plugs and wiggling the wires has worked...No blows today under varied city and freeway speeds.

Crossing fingers and riding high for another day. :/

 

Good! Well if it starts to happen again you know you need to start tracing the individual wires to see if one has a loose connection, has been pinched, missing sheath, etc. Wiggling them and making the issue go away could even be a problem with one of the plastic plug connectors.

And yeah i did mine all with multimeter. I'd have to pull my notes out again to see colors of wires and whatnot!

 

that video was great! my bad solder is actually in the same place as yours, what does this mean?

 

Thank you So much for sharing this, it worked perfectly on my 2005, and was easy and straightforward fix with an $8.00 hobby lobby soldering iron.

 

So glad people are able to get some help with this!! Wish everything on our trucks was this easy to handle!