Here I sit at 0440 EST, after reading so many different posts across the web about what the proper coolant is for my truck. I have read a 2019 post that the factory specified coolant from 2003 is no longer valid and that HD ELC coolant is now the recommended coolant to use. So I did some research on HD ELC and found the Shell website, Heavy Duty Antifreeze - Shell Rotella® ELC Coolants, to be more confusing with the multitude of options to choose from.

I have read that the process to purge the coolant system properly, takes ~12 hours, and distilled water must be used at the end, before concentrated HD ELC coolant is added. What has happened to the good 'ol days of anti-freeze?

If someone can have mercy on me, I would appreciate any advice that is current day guidance vs 2003 era.

Thank you kindly for any constructive advice (with links so I can try and redirect my research effectively).

And I found this, how am I to know if this is the correct process? Ford Super Duty Coolant Flushing Procedure - Superdutypsd.com.

 

Here I sit at 0440 EST, after reading so many different posts across the web about what the proper coolant is for my truck. I have read a 2019 post that the factory specified coolant from 2003 is no longer valid and that HD ELC coolant is now the recommended coolant to use. So I did some research on HD ELC and found the Shell website, Heavy Duty Antifreeze - Shell Rotella[emoji2400] ELC Coolants, to be more confusing with the multitude of options to choose from.

I have read that the process to purge the coolant system properly, takes ~12 hours, and distilled water must be used at the end, before concentrated HD ELC coolant is added. What has happened to the good 'ol days of anti-freeze?

If someone can have mercy on me, I would appreciate any advice that is current day guidance vs 2003 era.

Thank you kindly for any constructive advice (with links so I can try and redirect my research effectively).

Standard green coolant should be fine. I've had 2 73s (hopefully soon a third) and green was fine but you have to add the silica additive.

ELC maybe slightly better because it's ELC but green should be ok

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Sounds like it may be easier than the confusion of 'Internet Experts' suggestions.

Thanks Guitarnut.

 

Early 99 model years use regular green coolant. ELC will break down the injector cup sealant.

I use either Amsoil coolant, or Rotella ELC. ELC is nice because you don't have to worry about putting the additive in the regulator green coolant.

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I think you're best off with sticking to the ELC (I use Rotella concentrate from my local Tractor Supply). Your truck never had Green coolant in it, no reason to change now and it only makes the need for such a complete flush a necessity as Silica base (green) and ELC's don't mix well. Your truck came with the Ford "Gold" coolant and it's a kind of an ELC, just a rather poor one

So, I can't imagine it should take 12 Hours to flush, I just pull the lower hose, take out the thermostat, see if any of the little plugs at the bottom of the block come out easily, and do a complete drain (depending on how old/bad the coolant in there is, this might be much more than you need though). Then refill with Distilled water only, drive it around, get it hot, be sure to use the heater on full hot. Pull the hose again and drain, replace the thermostat (if it's the original, maybe replace it just ~ because) and start refilling with Concentrate (assume there's still a fair amount of distilled remaining) and then measure the concentration level and adjust the mix (concentrate & distilled) as needed.

I donno, Under 2hrs anyway

 

I think you're best off with sticking to the ELC (I use Rotella concentrate from my local Tractor Supply). Your truck never had Green coolant in it, no reason to change now and it only makes the need for such a complete flush a necessity as Silica base (green) and ELC's don't mix well. Your truck came with the Ford "Gold" coolant and it's a kind of an ELC, just a rather poor one

So, I can't imagine it should take 12 Hours to flush, I just pull the lower hose, take out the thermostat, see if any of the little plugs at the bottom of the block come out easily, and do a complete drain (depending on how old/bad the coolant in there is, this might be much more than you need though). Then refill with Distilled water only, drive it around, get it hot, be sure to use the heater on full hot. Pull the hose again and drain, replace the thermostat (if it's the original, maybe replace it just ~ because) and start refilling with Concentrate (assume there's still a fair amount of distilled remaining) and then measure the concentration level and adjust the mix (concentrate & distilled) as needed.

I donno, Under 2hrs anyway

My truck was purchased from the original owner about 6 months ago with 97,280 miles and it was/is, in hear perfect stock condition. It had the gold/yellow then and it has it now. I need to replace a seeping water pump and original hoses and thermostat, etc., but want to do it correctly. I am new to diesels, so your help is greatly appreciated.

I have found Clay at RiffRaff, Bill at Powerstrokehelp.com (local to me ~60 miles), Joe at 'Living on Wheels', Powerstroke.org, and others to be helpful with my learning experience.

Thank you for your constructive support.

 

I think the NF is all about Aluminum...

As many diesel engines went to Aluminum with Alum radiators and coolants became so long lasting an issue came up with corrosion problems on those engines and were addressed with that Nitrate Free version. You don't need it

 

Took it back and purchased the Rotella ELC coolant. After replacing the water pump that actually started leaking this week, I hope to have this all refreshed and ready for another 5 years. Thanks.

 

I would buy a flushing kit and install the flushing “T” in the heater core hose up by the oil fill spout. Drain your current coolant, install your new water pump, leave the thermostat out of the housing, hook up your water hose to the flushing T and turn the water on while letting the truck run. Have the heat on full blast start to finish in this process. Leave your reservoir cap off and allow the system to fill up and spill out of the reservoir until your water is completely clear. Then shut the water off, pull the lower radiator hose and the two block plugs, allow it to completely drain. Install your thermostat, put the plugs back in and lower hose back on and fill with distilled water. Drive the truck till the thermostat opens and the temp levels out. Park the truck let it cool a bit and pull your lower hose and block plugs again and let it completely drain. Put it all back together then start pouring 1 gallon of coolant then 1 gallon of distilled water back and forth till full. Then drive the truck till the thermostat opens and temps level out. Crack the reservoir cap a time or two to let it burp air and top off as needed. Should get you taken care of.

 

A few weeks ago I finished up several truck projects at once, with the water pump, new coolant hoses, coolant filtration system and new coolant part of the overall 2-week project. I ended up using the Rotella ELC coolant after much research here and in other venues. I flushed the system fully 5x, to include draining the block on both drivers and passenger sides every time; I am too fat to get under it on a creeper so I ended up wet everytime over the 4 day period I took to flush the system. I used distilled water for every flush and in the end, 4 gallons of Rotella ELC coolant. I added a 1 quart coolant filtration system that some say is not needed, however, I feel it is cheap insurance.

Thanks to everybody for your comments, and I hope my recent experience has helped someone with their project.