For future reference lay off all the screen shot stuff, post just the code or codes you have.
Clear all the codes out and see what comes back on a new read and let us know.

Start with some basics.
Do you get the WTS?.... no need to look further this must be fixed first.
Did you prove you have the proper amount of oil on the dip stick??
Is the HPOP full or within about 1 inch from full?
Do you have more than 1/4 fuel preferably 1/2 for troubleshooting?
If you have the batteries on a charger take them off and disconnect the battery crossover let them sit overnight, put a proper meter on each battery separately. Easy but not the best check is to make sure each battery is sitting at 12.6 volts, preferably 12.7 volts. Re-attach the crossover and again the same voltage at each battery. If you have anything less that the stated voltage fix now.
Prove physically by wiggling.... Each ground on the block (2), each frame ground (usually two attached from the block ground), fender ground each battery.
Does the tach move when cranking???? (easier to see on FORScan)
Pull the chip.... Try to start without.
Check each and every connection physically on the engine for contamination, damage, and security all the way to the IDM and PCM.. EACH AND EVERY ONE.... If it does not take at least 30 minutes you cheated.
Is the tin nut on the IPR secure?
Is the ICP clean and dry??? Remember to disconnect and look in the plug assembly. While it is unplugged try to stat. This is the 1212 code.. (usually)
Did you run the Buzz test???
P0475 will cause idle and running issues... It may be just the sensor connection, it may be the valve. This should not keep the truck from starting or running. It will cause driving issues.
P1670 is usually the CPS or the wiring within a foot or so is damaged... See the cranking RPM note.
U1260... Check every plug.. Pull the chip... Something is loose. Or a rat got it.
B1352... so what so do I... that is the little piece of plastic in the ignition tumbler that reminds you to take the key. Easy fix if just never have gotten to it.

Get a USB volt meter cigar port and keep an eye on the voltage. 12.6 volts sitting, about 11.5 volts key on with glow plugs, never below 10 volts when cranking, I prefer to see no less than 10.5 volts (this is a fail to start every time, fix the batteries)

Some of the codes make me think you have something not completing the circuit properly.

On FORScan look at BARO, EBPV, and MAP.. They all should read 14.7 psi give or take depending on where you are plus or minus about .3 or so. The EBP tube gets clogged and the sensor gets gummed up but this will not keep the engine from starting. It will mess with fuel per mile and idle.

Are you using OEM Motorcraft and International only parts for sensors and control items acquired from the Ford or International counter guy???? If not try again and fix these first. Never internet (I can count only 4 exceptions), never corner store, never Fleaybay, never Cramazon..


Did you do the NO START FLOW CHART???? See attachment.

Let us know.

 

For future reference lay off all the screen shot stuff, post just the code or codes you have. (Sorry about that....noted )
Clear all the codes out and see what comes back on a new read and let us know. (I cleared the codes and the same ones came back)

Start with some basics.
Do you get the WTS?.... no need to look further this must be fixed first. (WTS light does come on)
Did you prove you have the proper amount of oil on the dip stick?? (Fresh oil change and double checked the fluid levels)
Is the HPOP full or within about 1 inch from full? (It is)
Do you have more than 1/4 fuel preferably 1/2 for troubleshooting? (over 1/2)
If you have the batteries on a charger take them off and disconnect the battery crossover let them sit overnight, put a proper meter on each battery separately. Easy but not the best check is to make sure each battery is sitting at 12.6 volts, preferably 12.7 volts. Re-attach the crossover and again the same voltage at each battery. If you have anything less that the stated voltage fix now. (Will do tonight)
Prove physically by wiggling.... Each ground on the block (2), each frame ground (usually two attached from the block ground), fender ground each battery.
Does the tach move when cranking???? (easier to see on FORScan) (it's an 02 so no tach movement but it does move on forscan)
Pull the chip.... Try to start without.
Check each and every connection physically on the engine for contamination, damage, and security all the way to the IDM and PCM.. EACH AND EVERY ONE.... If it does not take at least 30 minutes you cheated.
Is the tin nut on the IPR secure? (it is)
Is the ICP clean and dry??? Remember to disconnect and look in the plug assembly. While it is unplugged try to stat. This is the 1212 code.. (usually) (replaced the sensor and pigtail)
Did you run the Buzz test??? (Checked out, no issues)
P0475 will cause idle and running issues... It may be just the sensor connection, it may be the valve. This should not keep the truck from starting or running. It will cause driving issues.
P1670 is usually the CPS or the wiring within a foot or so is damaged... See the cranking RPM note.
U1260... Check every plug.. Pull the chip... Something is loose. Or a rat got it.
B1352... so what so do I... that is the little piece of plastic in the ignition tumbler that reminds you to take the key. Easy fix if just never have gotten to it.

Get a USB volt meter cigar port and keep an eye on the voltage. 12.6 volts sitting, about 11.5 volts key on with glow plugs, never below 10 volts when cranking, I prefer to see no less than 10.5 volts (this is a fail to start every time, fix the batteries)

Some of the codes make me think you have something not completing the circuit properly.

On FORScan look at BARO, EBPV, and MAP.. They all should read 14.7 psi give or take depending on where you are plus or minus about .3 or so. The EBP tube gets clogged and the sensor gets gummed up but this will not keep the engine from starting. It will mess with fuel per mile and idle.

Are you using OEM Motorcraft and International only parts for sensors and control items acquired from the Ford or International counter guy???? If not try again and fix these first. Never internet (I can count only 4 exceptions), never corner store, never Fleaybay, never Cramazon.. (Good points...I try not to skimp on quality and utilize Motorcraft or the local NAPA store. Closest ford dealership is almost 2 hrs away from me...I live in the sticks of Montana. Lol. I'll see where the ICP sensor was manufactured and rectify)



Did you do the NO START FLOW CHART???? See attachment. I attempted to use the flow chart before posting but could only find a PID on FORScan for IPR% not PSI so that caused some confusion on my part. Do you know of a way to do this on FORScan? I'm using FORScan lite from my Iphone)

I'll go through and complete the other items you listed and let you know what I find! I appreciate your time!

 

IPR and ICP is data you can pull as a PID. You can tap on the gauges and set different parameters on them once you pull them. I believe you do not want play mode or what ever you call it active.

I believe you can read what is commanded, but to read actual pressure you need a gauge attached to the HPOP system. May be wrong on that but someone else should be along and they may clear that part up for us.

Another check is the fuel pump. Not the best check but checks flow not best for pressure, drain the fuel bowl. Cycle the key once for about 20 seconds and let the pump cycle off. Drain the bowl again while watching the flow (buddy system works for this). Does the fuel flow with authority of just trickle out?

Again maybe after folks have coffee and myself included, we may have more thoughts.

 

If you have the batteries on a charger take them off and disconnect the battery crossover let them sit overnight, put a proper meter on each battery separately. Easy but not the best check is to make sure each battery is sitting at 12.6 volts, preferably 12.7 volts. Re-attach the crossover and again the same voltage at each battery. If you have anything less that the stated voltage fix now. Did this and started with 2 fully charged batteries
Prove physically by wiggling.... Each ground on the block (2), each frame ground (usually two attached from the block ground), fender ground each battery. I physically whiggled and even put a socket on them as well. All tight
Does the tach move when cranking???? (easier to see on FORScan) (it's an 02 so no tach movement but it does move on forscan)
Pull the chip.... Try to start without. Pulled the chip and still no start.
Check each and every connection physically on the engine for contamination, damage, and security all the way to the IDM and PCM.. EACH AND EVERY ONE.... If it does not take at least 30 minutes you cheated. I pulled each connection, made sure they were cleaned and added dieletric grease to them all.

P0475 will cause idle and running issues... It may be just the sensor connection, it may be the valve. This should not keep the truck from starting or running. It will cause driving issues.
P1670 is usually the CPS or the wiring within a foot or so is damaged... See the cranking RPM note. I replaced the CPS and checked the wiring harness, no change.
U1260... Check every plug.. Pull the chip... Something is loose. Or a rat got it. Checked and no damage seen on any of the wires that I could see

Some of the codes make me think you have something not completing the circuit properly.

On FORScan look at BARO, EBPV, and MAP.. They all should read 14.7 psi give or take depending on where you are plus or minus about .3 or so. The EBP tube gets clogged and the sensor gets gummed up but this will not keep the engine from starting. It will mess with fuel per mile and idle. Ran out of time before it got dark to do these but will tomorrow.

My fuel bowl is deleted and has a fuel filter (NEW ONE) in it's place. I will pull it off tomorrow and check fuel flow. When I cranked it his evening there was some white smoke out the tail pipe which was encouraging.

I cleared the codes again tonight after doing all the above and still the same ones....at least no new ones. Lol!

 

On an 02 the tech does not move on the dash when cranking. How much fuel is in the tank? If it’s below 1/4, add some fuel to get it higher up, the pickup in these trucks are known for falling apart over time.

 

You have a 1280, 1212, 1670,,,, Those are Serious Codes! You've got issues!!!

First, be sure you're not cranking the batteries down too low, you can create all sorts phantom codes. If these codes all come back quickly, with proper voltage levels while cranking, you need to monitor the HiPres Oil system.

In any NoStart condition we want to monitor these 4 Important parameters while Cranking on the Starter;

ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors)

IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)

CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)

CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v)

Next, I would do a Buzz Test (that 1670 is an IDM code) to be sure you don't have injection issues too...

 

You have a 1280, 1212, 1670,,,, Those are Serious Codes! You've got issues!!! Thanks! Lol!

First, be sure you're not cranking the batteries down too low, you can create all sorts phantom codes. If these codes all come back quickly, with proper voltage levels while cranking, you need to monitor the HiPres Oil system. Trickle chrging them each night after working on the truck.

In any NoStart condition we want to monitor these 4 Important parameters while Cranking on the Starter;

ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors) No way to currently test PSI here at home but the IPR % is between 45%-55% while cranking

IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)

CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)

CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v) batteries are 1 yr old and I've been trickle charging them each day after working on the truck. they are well above 12.5V on my hand tester

Next, I would do a Buzz Test (that 1670 is an IDM code) to be sure you don't have injection issues too... Buzz test came back good.

 

""I pulled each connection, made sure they were cleaned and added dieletric grease to them all.""

I almost want to cry when I see people using this stuff. It is an insulator, it reduces conductivity, it is the incorrect stuff... Use it on spark plug boots on the edge to prevent spark jump from the boot to plug ceramic surface. It can be used in other places but that is the best use in a vehicle.

 

I disagree... I have always used just Any grease (whl brg, O-ring, silicone, Red, VASELINE if I had to!) The important thing is to keep the surface sealed from the atmosphere. Grease/Oil is never an impediment to a good connection (it seems counterintuitive but look at all the connections we have that are either bathed in oil (under the valvecover) or electrical connectors filled with silicone grease (like the little, round, scotch-locs).

Pretty much all grease is dielectric isn't it? At least what we all have in the shop

You have a 1280, 1212, 1670,,,, Those are Serious Codes! You've got issues!!! Thanks! Lol!

First, be sure you're not cranking the batteries down too low, you can create all sorts phantom codes. If these codes all come back quickly, with proper voltage levels while cranking, you need to monitor the HiPres Oil system. Trickle chrging them each night after working on the truck. Yea but, "trickle" on 2 800CCA batteries can be pretty insignificant.

In any NoStart condition we want to monitor these 4 Important parameters while Cranking on the Starter;

ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors) No way to currently test PSI here at home but the IPR % is between 45%-55% while cranking That % is way too high, shows that the HiPres Oil sys is weak. GET the ability to READ ICP, NOTHING is more important that this right now...

IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)

CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)

CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v) batteries are 1 yr old and I've been trickle charging them each day after working on the truck. they are well above 12.5V on my hand tester Static Voltage is pretty meaningless once you're trying to Start. Use a Meter inside the cab at the "Outlet" (cig ltr) to measure what the PCM is "seeing". That determines Cranking Voltage

Next, I would do a Buzz Test (that 1670 is an IDM code) to be sure you don't have injection issues too... Buzz test came back good. And there were no additional codes generated after the Buzz? (part of the purpose of a buzz test is to query parts of the IDM and generate more specific codes)

 

The IDM has a built-in diagnoses routine which activates each injectors solenoid to give you an Audio Indication of their function. You need the right scanner that will perform this test (we here all like ForScan )

Good Vid;

 

Well, I ended up having old girl towed to the shop the other day and I am hoping to have a diagnosis tomorrow. I'll let you know what they find.

 

I know this is old, but what was the issue

thanks