Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1997 F250 with coolant in oil, advice appreciated

3.2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Mrvmax  
#1 ·
I have a 1997 F250 extended cab with about 155k miles. I bought it from the original owner who took good care of it. Since I've had it I have been upgrading and getting things the way I like. I checked the SCA in the coolant and it was good but I went ahead and flushed the system and added a coolant filter and I have monitored SCA level since I did that, it has never overheated with me or the previous owner. I added the FS2500 bypass filter and started running Amsoil 15W40. After about 9k miles on the oil I took a sample and sent it in the Blackstone, I used a pump type oil sampler I bought off of Amazon and Blackstones container (I sampled from the dipstick).
I got my first sample back and it shows positive for glycol in the oil, it has 33ppm potassium (3 is normal), 16ppm sodium (4 is normal), 12 ppm copper (4 is normal) and 14 ppm lead (4 is normal). Viscosity was barely out of range. I dug through every thread I can find on this and yanked the oil cooler. The orings did not look bad but I did have some of the tubes plugged with solids. I went ahead and ordered a new cooler from Dieselorings as well as new gaskets and orings.
Now looking at it all it looks like I have a small leak since the levels are so low right now. I have not ruled out the possibility that the sample pump could have been contaminated (I should have flushed it but I did not), the sample jar was contaminated, I had coolant in the oil dipstick from a previous coolant change and/or leak I had when installing the A/C mod or Blackstone contaminated the sample. Those are not likely but with such low ppm levels I thought maybe it could be contamination (although the copper and lead levels show the coolant is attacking the bearings) so the cooler seems the most likely. Before pulling the cooler I removed the oil filter and pressured up the system to 16 psi and did not see leaks anywhere but the pressure would bleed off. The coolant tester did not mate up well with the cap on the overflow so I assume that was where it was bleeding down.
I plan on putting the new cooler in and adding new oil, running for a thousand miles then changing the oil and filters again. After the third oil change I will sample again but this time from the bypass filter. Any ideas?
 
#3 ·
I decided to go ahead and pull the water pump and replace it while checking for leaks between the pump and engine since some people say that cavitation will cause leaks there. I'll get to see what condition the metal is in. I guess I will have to see how to change out the injector o-rings and cups.
 
#5 ·
It was plenty warm and I sampled from the dipstick which now I regret. I can sample off my bypass filter but I didn't. I had 33 ppm potassium in about 16 quarts of oil. That equals about .13 grams of coolant in the oil to get 33 ppm. It doesn't take much coolant to make .13 gram (.005 ounces). That is so little that I could have had some coolant sprayed on the dipstick from a leak I had. I should have run the numbers before getting too worried. I already pulled the cooler and the o-rings were not brittle. I had some solids plugging some of the tubes so I just ordered a new cooler. While I am at it I ordered a new block heater and I am replacing the water pump and thermostat housing. I will see how the back plate looks behind the water pump when I pull it (BTW, found a Ford water pump for $115 at Dieselsite.com which I thought was a bargain).
Once I get it all back together I will change the full flow and bypass oil filter, run cheap oil for a thousand miles and dump it all. I'll change out the filters again and run ot for a couple thousand miles and do one more change then sample. I will probably take two samples and send to different places just for the heck of it.
 
#6 ·
There is no back plate on the 7.3 water pump like other small block Fords did.

Do the parts changes and you can run good oil and change it at 3k miles and do a sample then.

Remember every motor's history is different and everyonea driving habits are different. I have the oil reports saying 5000k miles is good for my oil changes. Yours may be 4000k or even 6000k depending on what they find.

I've been through numerous oil classes from various companies and being in Houston I know everyone from chemical engineers down to the guys at Lubrizol making and mixing the additives. Many many many companies use Blackstone and they are not known to ever be innaccurate or screw up a sample. If they did then they will certainly tell you.
 
#7 ·
I meant the front plate of the engine, not the back plate of the water pump. I am leaning toward me contaminating the sample pump or bottle more than Blackstone now. Just looking at possibilities since it takes a minute amount to contaminate samples (I have worked in labs before and taken and analyzed samples so I am familiar with it).