Stolen is right. ...and not just because it didn't fix the issue.

I can't tell if the one part that he put in was the IPR valve or ICP sensor but - regardless - he charged you about $1100-$1200 to put two parts in that maybe - MAYBE - took him 15 minutes. Seriously. Now... I realize that he may have some "diagnosis" time, but he sure-as-shiite didn't do well at that.

About the rest... standpipes and dummy plugs, perhaps. I know that @kaya can tell you how to bench test that HPOP. I'm pretty sure you just spin it and see if it sucks on your finger. The details are clearly better left to him...

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Edited to add...
If it *was* the IPR valve rather than the ICP sensor, that is a little more involved to swap out. I'll give him an extra 45 minutes on that. So... IMHO... unless his posted shop rate is $1000/hr, he's robbing people.

 

he did the icp sensor, telling me it was all the way down below the turbo, having to tear the truck apart. I was on vacation and the boat was in the water at the lake and needed the truck fixed and didn't want to do it myself, so i let him. now i do my homework and find that the icp sensor is on the front right valve cover, he charged 5.22 hours of labor @ $90 an hour for that sensor!!! its literally a 2 minute job!!! he's a crook!! But since AAA drove me there, dropped me off, and said he's a AAA certified mechanic, they warranty his work. so should get that all back. and HOPEFULLY they pull his AAA cert.

forgot to say.... checked the ipr, it looks perfect, screen looks brand new, no dishing, no tears.

 

Yes to the ICP sensor. He has some 'splaining to do.

I completely get the urgent situation that you were in. This is no way on you. The AAA angle is the right one, too.

Good regarding screen. If the HPOP sucks (you know what I mean), you may end up reinstalling and then air testing.

 

how much should the hpop suck? gear facing me on the bench, I'm putting my finger over the hole on the bottom side on the left, (stc fitting is on the right) I'm pretty sure this would be the inlet for the oil, clockwise turn nothing at all, counter-clockwise turn it slighty grabs my finger but not enough to really hold it there. is that all the pressure i should expect? it did pump the oil that was in the pump onto my floor though, so it is pumping something.

 

This is the quote that I remembered:

Put your finger over the suction side of the pump (bottom) and rotate the gear. Does it create suction on your finger?

The problem for you is that *I* have never done it. I only read of his doing it. I'm hoping that he'll stop by. He's the finger sucking expert...

 

hahaha, got it, well in the finger sucking experiment so far, i spun it by hand, tiny sucking but possibly tiny blowing also, hard to tell, hooked it up to a makita drill thinking motor spins it faster than i do, still nothing. thinking maybe it needs oil in it to create suction...submersed the inlet in oil, spun with makita, nothing pumped. thinking maybe it needs to be primed to pump, flipped it upside down, filled inlet with oil, used makita, still no oil coming out the stc fitting.....thoughts?

 

I had a very similar problem with my 05. Tested damn near everything, replaced STC, ICP, IPR sensors and a **** ton more than that. FICM tested fine, so I finally gave up and brought it to my buddies diesel shop. After a couple weeks of him not being able to figure it out, he said **** it and swapped in a spare FICM he had laying around. No problems since. Very strange.

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i have done ficm twice before, maybe it went bad again? but it is showing 48v hot or cold on the scan gauge

 

anyone know how to test the hpop on the bench see if its pumping or not?

 

I can't see your HPOP being bad if the system is running fine till you shut it off. Hot restart is your issue yeah? I would lean toward something in the oil rails but that's me. Could be an HPOP, but to me unlikely if it runs till you shut it off.

 

yes runs perfect until its hot and i turn the key off, then no restart. cools down, runs great again, tows the boat, drives around, everything. until i shut her down hot. then no bueno.

 

Have you checked the low pressure oil system? Might be a long shot, but it's easy to test.

Remove the oil filter and cap, have someone crank the engine for a couple seconds at max and watch down into the filter bowl to see if the oil level rises quickly. If it doesn't, you've got an issue there.

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Guys guys guys. That test id mentioned was for a specific thread on an 04 where he was building 0 ICP. It's definitely not a valid test for all instances lol.
On a no start hot, low ICP, get the vehicle to temp to induce the symptom. While no start is occurring, does the oil pressure gauge rise? Pull the oil filter cap and check that you're building adequate supply. If so, air test. Could be an injector o ring, among many other possibilities.
-confirm supply
-air test

 

Guys guys guys. That test id mentioned was for a specific thread on an 04 where he was building 0 ICP. ...

He already pulled the HPOP. That's why I thought of you and the bench test.

I know that you don't *want* the HPOP pump on the bench. ...but it *is* on the bench.

 

I'd throw it back on, and air test.
I just didn't want that test I'd mentioned to circulate as a valid test. It was just a generic check for any pump really that was in question of building any pressure at all.

 

I will never mention your finger sucking again. Promise!

 

ok cool, ill throw it back on, i really pulled the hpop initially expecting an easy fix and to change the stc fitting, then to my dismay it was already changed. i got the air fitting on order should be here tomorrow, ill get the hpop back on today, and do the lop system check. the gauge was coming up when hot, but I've heard thats not always 100%. do i need to put the hpop cover back on to air test/lop test or just leave it off so i can still see the hpop?

 

Since it's all apart already, just install the pump and IPR (if you didn't get the IPR air test tool) and run the air test. It's probably an injector o ring. especially if it was all recently apart and you have all the updates already in there.
Just remember to charge the IPR while air testing (again, if you didn't get the IPR air test tool)

 

haha thanks, i was feeling pretty discouraged of my abilities.

 

ok, got the air test hooked up, could hear just a tiny leak coming from the stc fitting, took the hpop back out, took off the (updated) stc fitting and there was a bad spot in the o-ring, super excited, problem fixed....course not...put the air back up to it after changing the o-ring and re-installing hpop, now I'm hearing a very loud gurgling down below the hpop? it wasn't there before, i definitely would have heard it over the barely leaking stc o-ring....what did i mess up now?

 

Did you remember to charge the IPR while testing?
Charge and discharge the IPR with air applied while listening for air to commence and stop to be sure it's functioning

 

Yes, without charging the ipr I could hear the air coming from the hpop which I could hear before changing the stc oring, and the gurgling coming from under it, after charging the ipr the noise went away coming from the hpop same as it did before, but the gurgling coming from under it continued.

 

Pull the cap off the oil filter housing, charge IPR, then apply air. If the air is coming out from "under" the HPOP, you should hear it louder or see bubbles in the filter housing.

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Ok, should I be charging ipr then applying air? I've been doing it the other way around. Or does it not matter?

 

new seal kit on its way...in the mean time try to test the low oil pressure system, pop the top of the oil filter canister, ummmmmm no oil filter! Wtf? The truck was bullet proofed, do they move the oil filter somewhere? Or did someone not put one back in? And cranking no oil fills the canister, at all. Still got the cover off the hpop, it should still build lop though, ya?

 

If you have a BPD oil cooler kit, your filter will be in the left front fender well. If you have a rock guard, you will see a large piece of steel there. My truck is lifted, can't miss it. When you looked in the oil filter canister, was there a large bolt in there? If so, start following the lines (they will not look like factory Ford lines) and locate your remote filter on the left side of the truck.

 

Charge first, then air. Some BPD systems have remote filters, but I thought that the oil filter tower disappeared.

Strange things are afoot at the Circle-K...

 

Whoa. Bill Esquire and Theodore Logan. Whoa.
Depress the filter drain while cranking. If still nothing, check the regulator at bottom passenger side of front cover. Should be a 10mm hex. Remove it. If the spring shoots out with force, it was likely jammed.

I would think you'd notice a remote filter kit. And as mentioned, the tower is usually deleted

 

Ok ya, found the remote filter. So how do i check for lop now? And/or air leaks at the filter?