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guess its time

15K views 99 replies 7 participants last post by  drivininidaho  
#1 ·
well im starting to have those dreaded 6.ohno problems. Right now I have an oil cooler that needs to go in and just ordered an EGR delete (ebay no name) and a coolant filter setup from PMM from TB on ebay. im gone for the next week so this isn't going to happen soon. but figured i'd get started with thread.

if those don't solve my issues then im down to HG and will do studs and some other work. truck is driveable but getting the white smoke and loosing coolant.

pic right after i bought it


other when i got home


and work setup


any ideas and help would be greatly appreciated.
especially on fun cool little mods.
 
#4 ·
Having issues with missing coolant and white smoke... egr delete and coolant filter on its way.
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yes liquid relief there.
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Wasn't there when I pulled egr turned it over and looked again and coolant everywhere

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#7 ·
^i can handle 6 moths, that will get me some time to get another truck to use for work, then let the playing begin on this.... unless my wife gets her grants and stuff, then i can get all taht done.

are there any special tools i need to do the delete and oil cooler? i have access to a lot of hand tools impact, air compressor. will need a tq wrench for sure.
 
#8 ·
Started the tear down today. Got a lot done for the little I worked.

Image


Pain the arse! I forgot about the bolt behind it on the pedestal. Its all out. Down to the IM. Trying to figure out what to pull next. Plus tired as hell but got help. I need to figure out if I should pull the fuel lines and the filter caps just to lift up pass side IM to delete the egr cooler... :confused::confused:

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#11 ·
well, im down to doing the HGs, and studs, since i'm basically there. now im trying to figure out long cranks when cold or been sitting for more than a couple hours. when cold it will long crank, after it has sat for more than 2 hours or so, it will turn over and start, stumble then die, then crank for a few seconds then start again...
 
#12 ·
so, should i remove the heat shield that is on the Y-pipe? or just bend it so i can access those bolts better. they are stuck on like a mo-fo. i tried to get them off last night. and all one did was spin. plus my ratchet was a piece of chit, and wanted to just spin and not lock like it should.

also should i upgrade the turbo drain or jsut use the stock?

and thinking of replacing the glow plugs/harnesses while im there.
 
#13 ·
so, should i remove the heat shield that is on the Y-pipe? or just bend it so i can access those bolts better. they are stuck on like a mo-fo.

Which bolts?



also should i upgrade the turbo drain or jsut use the stock?

Upgrade it.....its a $10 part and you're already there



and thinking of replacing the glow plugs/harnesses while im there.

Usually the harness will be too brittle and break/chip when you try to take it off so you'll probably be forced to replace what breaks...sometimes the tips of the GPs come too...as far as the rest...I say do it while you're there.
 
#14 ·
so, should i remove the heat shield that is on the Y-pipe? or just bend it so i can access those bolts better. they are stuck on like a mo-fo.

Which bolts?
the bolts that hold hold the y-pipe to the up-pipe (where the egr cooler would go in)
 
#16 ·
so i need to get parts yesterday my loaned truck is running short

so this is what im getting and ordering tonight (input please)
ARP head studs
ICP
driver/pass glow plug harness
oil cooler gasket kit (IPR)
Update turbo drain (from IPR)
OEM HG (from dealer if i can get there in time but doesn't look like it tomorrow)
need glow plugs but unsure of part number and where i should get them to make sure i get correct ones

remember i am doing HGs and trying to replace what i can while there, and trying to diagnose long crank (truck is apart so crank test is out right now)
 
#17 ·
sorry about the HG I felt your pain a while back... do you have a monitor to check some readings on the long cranks? they could be related to: hi pressure oil system, ficm, fuel pump, and few small issues.

try and get these reading befre cranking, during cranking and post them:

ICP voltage

IPR percentange

ficm main power volts

ficm sync

if you did studs might as well replace the following high pressure system fittings they're common failures: dummy plugs/ blank plugs and stand pipe. Call MKM customs and just order one their basic 6.0 soution kits comes with:

arp head studs
oem ford gaskets
full egr delete'
oil cooler
few misc items etc.... and then just do the hpop fittings while your in. looking forward to progress also a wet egr valve can be a blown or suffering egr cooler and not headgaskets happens all the time...

look up a reverse oil cooler flush too its helped a ton of people and if my oil cooler ever shows signs first thing i do before i cough up my hard to come by cash haha...
 
#19 ·
gotcha, I would order al the parts in advance, and also before you replace your oil/egr cooler make sure you ran both vc-9 to remove rust/ sand and restore plus then drive it around for a few days to really flush it good. I did and my temps are 8-10 apart but never above that even when towing so only 1 oil cooler down and been good so far;)

keep us updated
 
#20 ·
I'm deleting egr cooler. And have a used cooler waiting to go in while I'm doing all this other stuff. Any where I should look for GPs? I'm a little sketchy on making sure I get the correct ones.
If it helps its the early 04
God knows where...