POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL CORROSION if your truck is like mine...... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 08-10-2009, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL CORROSION if your truck is like mine......

FWIW...... Having spent a couple of afternoons trying to track-down my electrical problems last week ->

Injector driver relay clicking - engine dies....

I've found it was All due to the connection block at the top of the, drivers side, inner wheel well. It makes the transition from the battery (+) to Fuseable links feeding the fuse panel (pictured below)

When plugging/unplugging the computer connector on the firewall I disturbed this wire, which is at the bottom layer of many wire looms, and it broke (probably for the best as it was easier to find over the intermittent connection it was making )

It seems that FORD, in their infinite wisdom, secured this block in place by bolting it through the well and then "keying" in with a slot & tab that leaves a hole to the spray the front tire makes when going through puddles. Here in the Northeast, this often contains a corrosive mix of salt & slush in the winter time which is now a 1/2inch from this block that contains the nickel (from the fuseable link), copper, tin, and steel (from the nut & bolt it's all fastened together with) along with the salt, and Galvanic action does the rest!

I don't know how many other trucks have this located here and are susceptible to my problem, but if I owned another truck like mine, I'd go take a look at it now

It's pretty easy to spot, a 1X1 black box labeled "CAUTION HIGH CURRENT" next to the airbox
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post #2 of 24 Old 08-11-2009, 05:40 AM
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First I have heard, must not be a wide spread problem. Maybe some silicone is in order to keep the salt slush out of there.

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post #3 of 24 Old 08-11-2009, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCHornet View Post
Maybe some silicone is in order to keep the salt slush out of there.

NCH
You bet I did

Because I wasn't able to reuse the original stud/block I made the connection with one of those copper "split bolts" used in AC, household wiring. Then covered it in grease and shrunk some of that thick heatshrink tubing with the hot-glue inside. All this OVER the original mounting spot where I used ample silicone to seal the offending slot closed
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post #4 of 24 Old 12-07-2009, 07:52 AM
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I am still having trouble finding this box. My truck is an early 99. is it on top of the wheel well inside the engine compartment or somewhere else im not seeing

Luke

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post #5 of 24 Old 12-07-2009, 09:08 AM
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I found the box but the wire is good. I am guessing since i had a an early 99 it was in a different spot. My box was mounted directly on the fuse panel box right next to the air cleaner. The wire looked fine. My next issue i noticed now was the positive cable connection on my secondary battery looked fried. Maybe the bad connection shorted everything out possibly

Luke

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Much more wanted but $ plays a big factor in college
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post #6 of 24 Old 12-07-2009, 12:01 PM
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thanks for all the help guys. Turned out my battery connections cooked up. I noticed them when i was looking at the computer connections. The lead actually got hot enough and melted. changed out the relays and put on new connectors and she is starting up beautifully

Luke

99 F-350 7.3 turbo diesel ext cab 4x4
All terrain tires
Hypertech Power Programmer III
Hurculiner on entire bed
Tonneau cover
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4" Straight turbo back exhaust
DIY Tymar Intake
wastegate delete
ISSPRO triple pod guages
Much more wanted but $ plays a big factor in college
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post #7 of 24 Old 09-24-2010, 03:00 PM
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I am trying to find this box on my 00. Anyone got any more specifics. Still having a random no start from time to time. Do I need to remove the fender well liner to get to this?

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post #8 of 24 Old 09-25-2010, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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It's really less of a "box" than a cover for the connector lug. Mine is in the open, 1" back from the airbox, maybe 4" in from the inside of the fender itself, and on the top of the fenderwell. You don't have to remove anything....

BUT, I'm not sure it's something that causes a random no-start. It's a corroded connector that doesn't get better It goes bad, and just gets worse with time!
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post #9 of 24 Old 09-25-2010, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
It's really less of a "box" than a cover for the connector lug. Mine is in the open, 1" back from the airbox, maybe 4" in from the inside of the fender itself, and on the top of the fenderwell. You don't have to remove anything....

BUT, I'm not sure it's something that causes a random no-start. It's a corroded connector that doesn't get better It goes bad, and just gets worse with time!

That's what I was about to say.

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post #10 of 24 Old 09-25-2010, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRalPh View Post
It's really less of a "box" than a cover for the connector lug. Mine is in the open, 1" back from the airbox, maybe 4" in from the inside of the fender itself, and on the top of the fenderwell. You don't have to remove anything....

BUT, I'm not sure it's something that causes a random no-start. It's a corroded connector that doesn't get better It goes bad, and just gets worse with time!
Well considering I have new good batts, fresh rebuilt starter, good wiring far as I can see, brand new relay..... I am looking at everything I can find here.

2000 f250 crew cab 4x4 6sp manual, Jim Rosewood 238/100 hybrids, gtp 38r, srp1.1 hpop, DP-Tuner! Driven diesel fuel sys!
269,xxx and counting!!

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