First I have heard, must not be a wide spread problem. Maybe some silicone is in order to keep the salt slush out of there.

NCH

 

Maybe some silicone is in order to keep the salt slush out of there.

NCH

You bet I did

Because I wasn't able to reuse the original stud/block I made the connection with one of those copper "split bolts" used in AC, household wiring. Then covered it in grease and shrunk some of that thick heatshrink tubing with the hot-glue inside. All this OVER the original mounting spot where I used ample silicone to seal the offending slot closed

 

I am still having trouble finding this box. My truck is an early 99. is it on top of the wheel well inside the engine compartment or somewhere else im not seeing

I found the box but the wire is good. I am guessing since i had a an early 99 it was in a different spot. My box was mounted directly on the fuse panel box right next to the air cleaner. The wire looked fine. My next issue i noticed now was the positive cable connection on my secondary battery looked fried. Maybe the bad connection shorted everything out possibly

thanks for all the help guys. Turned out my battery connections cooked up. I noticed them when i was looking at the computer connections. The lead actually got hot enough and melted. changed out the relays and put on new connectors and she is starting up beautifully

 

I am trying to find this box on my 00. Anyone got any more specifics. Still having a random no start from time to time. Do I need to remove the fender well liner to get to this?

 

It's really less of a "box" than a cover for the connector lug. Mine is in the open, 1" back from the airbox, maybe 4" in from the inside of the fender itself, and on the top of the fenderwell. You don't have to remove anything....

BUT, I'm not sure it's something that causes a random no-start. It's a corroded connector that doesn't get better It goes bad, and just gets worse with time!

 

That's what I was about to say.

 

For what it's worth (well first, THANK YOU to the original poster of this) I've had an intermittent no start (no crank) issue that I've been trying to solve. I searched today on here and found this link, went out and looked at my connection point, and when I just held the fusible link side, it fell right off in my hand.

I spliced it, put everything back together, and so far it's starting fine. I believe this connection was not able to support the current required to keep the solenoid for the starter closed. This wasn't an obvious spot to check for me, and it seems to be the culprit.

Thanks again,

-dave

 

anyway you could take a pic of where it's located? or have a very good description of where it is located. I am still having random no start and driving me crazy

 

I'll try to get a pic of the location tomorrow in daylight.

Okay, it's kind of hard to see, and mine is no longer a "block" or "box", since I've just spliced the connection and eliminated the corroded contact bolt/block. I've circled the area behind the air filter box where it is. The cable leads through the firewall. On my truck you can see the cable has a spiral white wrap on it.

Hopefully the picture attachment comes through.

 

Thanks, I'll check it when i get home this evening.

 

The 02 and 03 trucks have completely different wiring than the older ones. They don't have a fuse box in the engine bay like the older ones. So if your truck has fuse box in the engine bay you won't find it. I have seen that joke of a connection fail more than once. They should have never put that exposed connection right there.

 

02 F250 intermitent electrical problems

Well I did check that connection on the inside firewall fender, drivers side...actually when I replaced the underdash fuse block two weeks ago I was in that connection with the new power lead to the fuse block...mine was still in exceptional shape after 10 years....still cleaned and made sure all was good and tight.

Still did the stupid stuff of shutting off and starting right back up this morning...loaded truck on trailer b/c I couldn't hardly get out of driveway without it electrically going dead....at a SHOP....will let you all know the outcome when it is fixed.

 

NoRalPh - Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have been chasing this problem in my F450 for weeks and I might never have found it without your post. The junction box on my truck was trashed by corrosion. The truck would stall, then it wouldn't start, then it would start but only run for a few seconds, then the gauges would reset and the IDM relay would click like mad... It was driving me to drink. I bought a new junction block from Ford for $25.00, crimped and soldered new lugs onto the cable ends and put it all back together with a liberal helping of dielectric grease. Truckasaurus now runs like a beast again, and just 24 hours before she has to haul the RV out on vacation. I'll hoist a beer to you while I'm away.

 

Glad you found it!

Next round's on me :drinking4:

 

had same prob on my 02 f250 with 5.4l prob be easier to find if you look up under the fender well tire side look for a nut the connection box is bolted there from top down

 

Found this exact problem on my truck...Thanks for the post... I have a question:will this impede battery charging?

 

I think it will. Before I did this fix, I was replacing alternators and using my battery charger with some frequency.

 

This solved my problem, then I started my truck and saw puffs of smoke coming out of the oil fill cap which is of course the sign of blow by...

 

So I've had mysterious no cranks lately, and found this thread. It's too early to tell, but I took the junction apart and cleaned it up, it didn't look too bad, but the truck cranked right up twice after cleaning when it wouldn't crank before. Weird thing is, I could tap on the starter and make it start. Maybe it was just getting a little corroded and wasn't allowing enough amperage to pass. . . . Time will tell though.

 

could be a starter solenoid
the tap and crank leads in that direction

so if it was mine I would get a low mile 6.4 starter from ebay and do an upgrade / repair

 

I have the same issue but I can't find the part from ford, rock auto or any other place currently. Any suggestions on a replacement part.

 

I don't ever think I even considered buying another one,,, it's just a connection point, and a flawed one at that...

Clean-up the eye terminals, replace them if you can't, and redo the connection. As I remember (you see how old this thread is) after cleaning everything, I slid shrink tubing down one side (the good stuff with hot glue inside), bolted them together with s SS nut & bolt after covering the parts with grease, and shrunk it down (I Love seeing that glue push-out against the wires ~ hehe).

MUCH better than the steel bolt that's getting wet from the ft wheel spray coming thru the wheel well hole below it!

 

I don't ever think I even considered buying another one,,, it's just a connection point, and a flawed one at that...

Clean-up the eye terminals, replace them if you can't, and redo the connection. As I remember (you see how old this thread is) after cleaning everything, I slid shrink tubing down one side (the good stuff with hot glue inside), bolted them together with s SS nut & bolt after covering the parts with grease, and shrunk it down (I Love seeing that glue push-out against the wires ~ hehe).

MUCH better than the steel bolt that's getting wet from the ft wheel spray coming thru the wheel well hole below it!

Dang it! I went months without looking in the engine bay now I have to crack the hood again lol...

 

2003 would start, shut off 5 or six times. new crank sensor (recall), check ICP - seemed good. Relays under dash would chatter with key on. Pulling on some wires by air cleaner and the big wire on juncton box lifted right off! Finally got the junction box off fender and was looking online to find new box and ran across hour post. Will just splice and heat shrink too - thanks so much!

 

NoRalPh, I know this is an old thread, but I'd like to thank you for your knowledge here as well. My wife's 03 7.3 had some terrible symptoms two weeks ago, cause by that same corroded wire. Would have never given that wire a 2nd look if it hadn't been for this post. After a new terminal and heat shrink repair, the starter turns the motor over faster than ever now, lol. Again, thank you!

 

Well, Thank You for the acknowledgement!