Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Northern, Ca
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Common 7.3 problems
Im going to make a list of common problems I've seen on 7.3 powerstroke motors 94-99
I've worked and owned over 7' 7.3s
Overlook your truck and rule out these problems one by one.
So if your symptoms are similar look into these problems.
If your looking to purchase a truck with a no start look into these. You'll know what to look for
These are COMMON problems some motors may have 1 or more of these issues.
There's more problems that can occur but these are what I have experienced.
Common No Start #1:
IPR VALVE, LOCATED IN THE VALLEY ON THE HPOP. these often stick, the sensors go bad
Or the wires get cut.
Replacement cost $140-300 New
Common No start #2:
IDM located on drivers side fender.
These could go bad and will cause a no start or ruff running and cut outs in revving/rpm.
Replacement cost $50-350 for used-new
Common problems #1 Cps sensor. Causes the truck to cut out and evuantually die. Making it not start until it sits or is reset on the batteries. Easy way to make sure yours is good; on OBS's check if you tach moves while cranking if it does your cps is good. If not replace. Cost $24-70 don't buy the sensor from any parts store get it OEM because they can be defective out of the box.
Common problem #2
UVCH. Connectors, when these go bad or ground out on your glow plugs they can cause horrible running conditions to the point where the truck sounds like ut has 17* timing and it lopes bad and will often die. &sputter. Easy way to fix this or check for it , there are four connectors on your block /heads that are under the valve covers unplug them and check for cut wires or burnt connectors if there burnt Replace them. Its not to hard and the average joe can do it.
Replacement cost $134-260$50-350 chines-oem ford
Common Problem #3
fuel filter clogged. Will often cause long cranking or semi loss in power if the injectors can't get the fuel they need the truck wont run its best
Replacement cost $9-30 easy to do
Common Problem #4
Lift pump failure, this will definitely cause a no start. One way to rule this out is check the fuel bowl for fuel b4 and while cranking. If no fuel fill the bowl up and if it starts replace the.pump. Replacement Cost $125-320
Common Problem #5
overheating. This could be anything related to coolant. Radiator, thermo, waterpump, or bad coolant. Cost for thermo could be $12-30. That's mainly the only issue or waterpump. $120-250 for one of those. Both are fairly easy
Common problem #6 Icp sensor. Causes the truck to run but cut in and out and really roughly throttle it colander often die on you and or leave you stranded. Cost $65-167
Easy to do
ADDED BY: bigfuel
Common Problem #7
Hissing from the dash when on "Max A/C" or "Defrost" selection is made on the Climate Control Selector. Open the hood and look to the back left (as you are looking and the motor) of the Engine Bay. Near the firewall and right fender there is a vent blending door actuated by a white (factory) 1/8" vacuum line. Inspect for dry/cracking/broken vacuum line and replace. Hissing under the dash will go away. Fix: easy Cost: $10
ADDED BY: madpogue
Common no-start #3 -
Fuel heater - shorts out and blows maxifuse #22, disabling the PCM. Disconnect the fuel heater, replace fuse, re-try start. Replacement cost $3 (?) for the fuse (always carry spare fuses, including maxifuses, in the glove box)
Common hard-start, no-start #4 :
Glow plugs Usual tests for GP relay function, UVCH continuity, resistance of the glow plugs. Replacement cost - depends on what's found to be defective
Common cold-weather start issue -
block heater. Usually it's just the cord, not the heater itself. Test with an ohmmeter / continuity tester. Replacement cost, $20-30 for a generic cord that fits our heaters, avail at NAPA
Common Problem owner neglect -
Coolant SCA maintenance. SCA degredation results eventually in cavitation. Repair cost - you don't want to know (engine replacement). Prevention cost - $20-ish for a bottle of SCA and some test strips if coolant is still fresh, $100+ for complete coolant flush
Common Problem start / driveability issue -
Clutch linkage/hydraulics issues. Weak hydraulics, or worn pedal box bushings, or worn lever arm / eyelet bushing. Extreme eyelet bushing wear can lead to the eyelet expanding (ovalizing). Repair/replacement cost - $120-150 for the hydraulics (complete pre-bled system), $20 (?) for the pedal box bushings (dealer), $5 for the "cheap" arm/eyelet bushing repair (brass tubing + drill stop collar), $20 (?) for the "fancy" arm/eyelet bushing repair (eBay Heim joint)
"Diagnostic" note to add to the IDM item - remove IDM and shake it, listen for water sloshing. Replace if water is heard.
Common problem 5 speed manual :
bushing in pedal arm wears out, causing slack in pedal and grinding of gears. Easy fix remove brake/clutch pedal assembly and. Knock out worn out stuff on clutch arm. Take a 1/2" drill bit and.drill out the hole, take a long 1/2 bolt and.nut.with 20 or so washers put them thru each hole and tighten them sdown till its solid. Done.
Cost. $15 parts from home depot
-06 F250 SCSB 6.0 191k
TSD Super Panty Dropper
Studded and Deleted.
50" Led Light Bar
4" lift 37x14s
-04 Crown Vic P71 interceptor 160k
Last edited by UNDERCOVER_73; 10-30-2012 at 12:50 PM.