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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I decided I had to try upflow settling after I saw it on the Frybrid message boards here:

Galt upflow filtering method. - Forums

Some folks use cold upflow settling as a stand alone filtration method. I don't completely trust it to make sure that the oil is completely clean and water free, but I think it's a great way to pre-filter/dewater oil for long term storage. My Vegistroke kit is on its way and I am trying to stockpile as much oil as I can so that I can hit the ground running once it's here. Also, I will continue to use upflow settling once my centrifuge is up and running so that I can continue to stockpile. Here is my setup-please bear with the crappy cell phone pictures:



Pictured here is the setup consisting (from the top) of a standard 5 gallon spackle bucket nested into an upside down 15 gallon barrel that used to contain Rain-X. Your local carwash is a great source for poly barrels as most soaps/chemicals come in either 55, 30, or 15 gallon barrels. Most places will be happy to give them to you rather than wait for the supplier to take them back. The spackle bucket has approximately 20 1" holes drilled (using a hole saw) in it. The bucket is lined with an old cotton t-shirt which is fastened around the rim by a 12" HVAC duct clamp. My t-shirt supply came from my brother who used to work for a pool service in the summers when he was in college. They gave him a ton of workshirts which no longer needs. They're a pretty heavy material and make a great pre-filter. Another good source for shirts is the local Goodwill/Salvation Army store-you can often pick them up for $0.10 a piece. The bucket nests in a hole cut in the bottom of the upside down barrel. The hole is just small enough so that the outer lip of the bucket keeps it from falling in. This makes for a convenient removable pre-filter that's fairly fine but doesn't clog immediately. I've gotten about 30 gallons through at a time but keep in mind that this is very dirty (french fry chunks, etc...) partially hydrogenated oil.

Here you can see some of the oil:



The top barrel is connected to the 55 gallon barrel on the bottom via a 4" long by 2" NPT nipple with a 2" automotive exhaust pipe sleeved (flared at one end) inside extending about 24" into the barrel. The purpose of the pipe is so that oil poured into through the filter at the top flows into the bottom barrel but is introduced at the very bottom. This causes water, fats, and crud to remain at the bottom while clean, dry, clear oil rise to the top. This oil then flows through the bung on the opposite side through this valve:



The valve is a simple boiler drain valve plumbed into the drum via 3/4" street elbow, a series of reducer bushings, and a bung adapter. Most drums have two 2" bungs-one is standard NPT threads and one is what are called "buttress" threads. You can buy a simple adapter which will allow you to change the buttress opening to NPT at McMaster-Carr. You want this valve to be barely open so that the oil trickles out VERY slowly. This will keep any turbulence inside the settling barrel to a minimum, ensuring that only the clean oil rises to the top and makes it's way out of the settling barrel and into the storage barrel. The valve dumps (via a short section of garden hose) into an adjacent 55 gallon drum for storage. When this drum is full I'll seal it and store it until I can process it with my centrifuge for use in my truck.

You can also take the filtering a bit further by adding a bag filter (blue jean material works great for this) for the oil to pass through on its way into the storage barrel. Or if you really wanted to get creative (and had the space) you could put the settling barrel on a platform and run the oil through a series of filters on its way down. Either way its a good cheap way to experiment...

Cost breakdown:
Spackle bucket - FREE
15 gallon barrel - FREE
55 gallon barrels - FREE
T-shirt - FREE
Old garden hose - FREE

12" Hose clamp - $3.00
4" by 2" NPT nipple - $4.00
Buttress thread to 2" NPT thread adapter - $18.00
2" to 3/4" reducer bushing - $5.00
3/4" boiler drain - $8.00
2" O.D. exhaust pipe - $15.00
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Grand total: $53.00
 

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I've been thinking about John Galt's design for the past week now and will put mine together soon. Yes they're crappy photos :hehe: but your set-up makes up for them. :thumb: Good timing!
 

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ya need to clean that garage out buddy, no telling what you might find :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ya need to clean that garage out buddy, no telling what you might find :lol:
You're not kidding! :doh: That's actually my grandmother's garage. My grandfather was a "collector" and there's a lifetime worth of stuff in there. There's a lot of junk, but there's also a lot of useful stuff too-it's just a matter of actually finding it :hehe: I'm just using the space until my fiancee and I close on our house. I've already got the floorplan for my garage laid out with space for the upflow system, centrifuge for final polishing, and room for 12 55 gallon barrels-660 gallons.
 
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