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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have replaced most everything except for the truck and once I get it running good...Bam, bad map sensor. So, I replace it, and the truck runs good for about two days. Then, I get my tuner in from Power Hungry Performance(have not received my custom tunes as of yet). I run a diagnostic on the truck. Naturally I get the EGR codes and one other...Balance/contribution in cylinder #5. I start to think injector. Then I clear them and get the balance/contribution code for cylinder #1, not #5. I clear them, get a code for cylinder #5, not #1, and I repeated this a few times, and almost every time, it was the alternate cylinder. I unhook my battery cables and wait 15 minutes. Hook them up again, crank the truck and it will run fine for about an hour and then the problem shows up again, rough idle, no power. So, I am at a crossroad again. Is it the FICM, is it the injectors? Who knows, I am past "had it" with this thing, but any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Check your FICM. It won't cost anything to do it but some of your valuable time.
First step would be to remove both batteries and have them load tested. Many auto parts stores do this for free. Replace as a set if they fail or test as marginal.
Second is to put the batteries on a charger to verify that they are 100% charged.
You don't want to spend the cash for a new FICM, only to find out it was a battery problem, this is why the first two steps are just as critical as the actual FICM test.

To test the FICM, I copied this directly from Swamps website:

***FICM voltage tests should be performed with the engine oil COLD (ie, close to ambient air temperature). This will force the FICM into it's inductive heating strategy, which will give you a worse case scenario/voltage reading. If the engine has been run (within 5-6 hours of this test), then the warm engine oil may not give you an accurate FICM voltage.

On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.

You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the coolant jug is handled forcefully.

On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).

under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...

if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).

If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).

be careful NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...

Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.

Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.

Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.

If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"...

we have seen FICM's as low as 17volts...some 19v's...some in the twenty's and low thirties...

obviously...the lower the voltage...the 'worse' the FICM is...and the more likely that (cold) rough running would be a result of a bad FICM.

however..if you email (or call) us and say that your FICM is dropping to 43-44volts...while low..I think that you may have some underlying injector issues that may be contributing to your cold rough running, as much as the slightly low voltage FICM

You can email any questions to [email protected] ; however, if your voltage IS low...then your FICM is bad, and you can place an order at the following link. Swamp's Webstore - Custom Electronics

due to the high demand of our (48v &/or 58v) Heavy Duty FICM's, we are typically running 2 days behind on current orders...if you need express delivery, please make a note in the comments section during your online checkout, and we will call you with shipping options and rate quotes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check your FICM. It won't cost anything to do it but some of your valuable time.
First step would be to remove both batteries and have them load tested. Many auto parts stores do this for free. Replace as a set if they fail or test as marginal.
Second is to put the batteries on a charger to verify that they are 100% charged.
You don't want to spend the cash for a new FICM, only to find out it was a battery problem, this is why the first two steps are just as critical as the actual FICM test.

To test the FICM, I copied this directly from Swamps website:
Thanks for the response man. I appreciate it. I have checked the batteries and they are both at 100% charge and have had them tested. I think that my issue is going to be the FICM. Gonna pull it tonight or tomorrow and run the test. HOnestly, I think I would rather it be the FICM than the injectors.
 

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Whatever you do, do not buy a new FICM at FORD.
Remember that the definition of insanity is the repetition of an act expecting a different outcome.
Buy another FORD FICM and you will get another failure, get a Swamps rebuild and get a superior product.
 

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i can say i had some of the same prolbems and tested the ficm, it was bad i shipped my ficm to swamps and had it back in a couple days(overnight shipping) truck ran great i picked up 4 mpg. but i think i waited too long before getting it fixed now i have injector(s) going out (not from their product) i also went with the 58 volt rebuild. i would suggest there product any day of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I am hoping that this is my issue(the FICM). I am going to do the Swamps FICM for sure if it is determined that this is my problem. Will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tested everything today to make sure that the batteries were operating properly....again...Check. Took the lid off the FICM(4 pin) Tested three times. 48, 47, 49. FICM is good. Guess I am going to have to buy some injectors, but I really don't feel like throwing another grand and some in this thing. I will do the injectors myself, but this thing is a money pit. I have nearly $10,000 in it and it still does not do its thing. Should I replace them all, or just the bad one(s)?
 

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i wish i knew for sure ive heard it both way truck has been down for a week and still dont know what im going to do i regret ever buying this truck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i wish i knew for sure ive heard it both way truck has been down for a week and still dont know what im going to do i regret ever buying this truck
You ain't the only one bud. I think I am going to only replace the two bad injectors and pray for the best. Or an asteroid to land right on it. Beautiful truck. POS. Its gotten to the point I really hate it.
 

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I only have one out but as soon as it's fixed it's bye bye baby good bye
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tech, I am not sure how. $10,000 or damn near it in repairs is bad, don't care what you are running. But I have heard their nightmare stories too. On the other hand, my injectors are going to be here Tuesday. I am going to put them in on Tuesday afternoon, two of them. The only problem I have is, today I plugged in my Edge Evolution CS(that is to be a Gryphon, hopefully) and guess what, no injector codes. I am not sure what in the world is wrong with this truck, but I have had about all I can take with it.
 

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i had the same codes come up once actually twice and i never seen them again but i was sitting a light and took off ive found that you either get a good truck or a money pit i will say that the edge evo is good with codes from every one that ive talked to not just on here but around my area just as good as a snap on code reader so you might want to runn a addative like hot shots secret or rev-x both work great but its up to you on witch you like better but good luck
 

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I ran the rev x in my truck fri. I go t bout 70 miles on it since it helped with the running part of it but it still has an injector prolbem. So I have to order an injector now.
 
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