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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
8 Hours on a Saturday I got it all done! Snapped a few pics so you guys can see how it went down. :thumb::thumb: (will post in a bit took me forever to write this)

Zoodad: Cut a big fat hole in the Radiator support for the Zoodad, Biggest issue was taking off and putting back on my grill guard, and realigning the bumper.

Foil Delete: Driver side Intercooler pipe had to come out to get the turbo out, so it was easy to get done too. Bascially just tedious work stripping it. Had it in a vise, and a pair of pliers pulling the foil and insulation off. Once I got it down to glue and fuzz, just kept wetting it with Brake parts cleaner, and using a straight razor at a very low pitch scraped it all off. I am sure there are other things that would make it come off easier, or quicker, but in the moment thats all I had to get it done. :doh:

Wicked Wheel / Pedestal O Rings: You can do the Wicked Wheel without taking out the turbo, like the you tube video, but its easer if its out off the truck for another reason. But also on that note the turbo is a pain to get out for just the WW. Intercooler pipes out of the way, Y pipe, and intake pipe all out, popped loose exhaust clamp. The rear band clamp is the same way but probably the hardest part of the whole day was getting it off. I was able to get the top part of the clamp popped, then un bolted the turbo from the ped, and GENTLY wedged a pry bar on the corner of the turbo, and a few shakes it finally let go.:wink[3]:
Once the turbo was out it was just the 12point 8mm bolts on the compressor housing out, same on EBPV side. Vise grips on the exhaust wheel collar, and it spun loose. I had alot of oil in the turbo, and compressor housing so have to research CCV mod for next weekend. Took a piece of Air Force Grade Safety wire, and wired the Wastegate closed, nice and professional look. would be a pain to do inside the truck since its pretty much on the backside of the turbo. :crazy:

Wicked Wheel installed on right, original wheel on left, can see they are same size, but WW has every other fin shaved down.


Wired wastegate:


Exhaust Doughnuts: Tricky, but I got it to work and I am proud it only took me about 3 hours if thats all I needed to do, but I had the turbo out for other reasons anyways. So turbo is out, pedestal is out. Had everything soaking with PB Blaster for a good 2-3 hours. From under the truck unbolt the uppipes. Hint: the passenger side would be 10x easier if the downpipe wasnt in the way but a wasnt about to unbolt my FBD exhaust for the 4th time this month to pull it out. One doughnut was so bad the uppipe dropped right out when I pulled it all out the top of the motor. In a vise, soaked the doughnut flange bolts for a good nother hour and was lucky they didnt snap like the guys up in Michigan did a few weekends ago.:thumb: The pic shows the differece between the old stock doughnut, more metal looking, and also $17.99 a piece at the dealer!!!!!!!! The new ones are Carquest #17250, or Napa #S17250 soft exhaust flanges. Same diameter pipe, just thicker. OEM ones were cranked down all the way and leaking, where the new ones have plenty of room to crush down and probably get a better seal.
Got doughnuts and flanges all pre assembled, cleaned off lower manifolds, and put the uppipes back in on lower manifolds with a coating of Hightemp antisieze on sealing flange, tighten just till I had friction so the would hold position but I could move them around to adjust. Doughnut manifold slipped back onto uppipes on top with a little antiseize again. Had to turn the flange bolts a few turns to get some friction to hold on the uppipes. Now here was the time consuming part but was very successful for alignment of everything. with it all loose, get the back clamp on exhaust flange with antisieze, pedestal and turbo back in and bolted down, clamped turbo and exhaust flange back to gether. Then from underneath wiggled uppipes to make sure there wasnt any stress in there positioning, then bolted the lowers down tight. Also from below with a few extensions you can reach the driver side doughnut flange, crank that down tight also.:thumb:

Doughnuts on the bench, 221k on stock one on left, new CarQuest on right


Doughnut manifold with new doughnuts installed ready to go in truck.


Now here is the part that would have saved me some time, if the downpipe was out, I probably could have reached the passenger doughnut flange from bellow, but I couldnt get in there, so the turbo and pedestal comes back out, to tighten the passenger side. I left the upper bolt loose, and tightned the lower doughnut bolt as much as I could with a small 10mm wrench (very little room or leverage) then with a ratchet was able to crank the upper good and tight. So turbo back in with a good coat of antisieze on both flanges and new Orings. DONT FORGET TO CONNECT THE EBPV ACTUATOR!!!!! I did :doh::doh: and found it when truck would only boost to 3psi, and felt like a potato in the tailpipe. :doh::doh: Intercooler pipes, Ypipe, intake all back in reverse order.

Wow the truck sounds awesome and drives great.:woot: Unfortunately I did all the mods at once so I cant tell you what mod did what.:dunno: I am not sure if it was the foil delete, or the Wicked Wheel, but the truck whistles like mad now!!!:nod: The boost in the same, so no gain there but I knew that. Fixed the exhaust ticking that was driving me up the wall!! 17psi to the floor with no chip. I am guessing by wiring the actuator closed, that when I am doing say 2-2500 rpm (manual trans) and I step on it, the boost response is very noticably better!!!

It was a good weekend!!!! going to run into town to get coffee and step on this beast a little more :woot::woot::woot::woot: Will post pics and a few other "lessons learned" when I get back. :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

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ya can wait to see the picks. i need to do the dounut gaskets on mine also. starting to lose some boost and coating my fire wall with soot
 

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Electrical Ogre
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I know your pain of the turbine exhaust inlet clamp, those things wedge on there pretty tight!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry guys I wish I had more pics but I was too busy covered in grease and grime to take more pics than what I did.

So some lessons learned. The Wicked Wheel comes with a pretty good info card from Dieselsite.com on turbo removal.

It was a pain to get clamps off this time, but now antiseize is my friend, it makes the clamps tighten up nice. on another note, its also messy, you get it on your fingers and you leave silver finger prints everywhere!!

Holy Ginsu!!! Watch your fingers!!! The edges of the turbo clamps and the inside of the intercooler pipe are SHARP!!!:yikes::yikes: I didnt do it this time, but when I was installing my FBD turbo back, and Vegistoke, I sliced my fingers open hardcore!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ya can wait to see the picks. i need to do the dounut gaskets on mine also. starting to lose some boost and coating my fire wall with soot

The OBS is a different story. I would rate the Superduty turbo removal and doughnuts a 6/10, where the OBS turbo removal is a 9/10. You need to buy a set of swivel sockets to get to the 4 pedestal bolts, since the turbo is bolted from underneath it needs to come out as one. I mean swivel sockets as in the swivel is part of it, not a swivel attachment, tried, and it doesntnt work. Plus you need to get the EBPV housing off while still in the truck to get to the turbo flange bolts. I took the turbo out of my 1995 and it was not a fun experience.
:dunno::dunno:
 

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The OBS is a different story. I would rate the Superduty turbo removal and doughnuts a 6/10, where the OBS turbo removal is a 9/10. You need to buy a set of swivel sockets to get to the 4 pedestal bolts, since the turbo is bolted from underneath it needs to come out as one. I mean swivel sockets as in the swivel is part of it, not a swivel attachment, tried, and it doesntnt work. Plus you need to get the EBPV housing off while still in the truck to get to the turbo flange bolts. I took the turbo out of my 1995 and it was not a fun experience.
:dunno::dunno:
ya ive heard that its a pain. thats why its still not fixed. and its just the one on the passenger side. between the up pipe and the turbo. but its going to have to be done before i leave to go to school this summer
 

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Just a thought for getting the glue/residue off the intercooler pipe....could you soak it in something like purple power and then take a high pressure pressure washer to it? Anyone tried this?
 

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use some laquer thinner to remove the glue from your pipes. just soak them a little bit, and then wiper them down with a rag.

Also on an OBS turbo removal you just need practice. when I rebuilt my engine I had to take the freakin turbo out atleast 5 times! GRRR but after the 2 time I could do it in about 5 minutes.
 
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