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Discussion Starter #1
2KF2507.3PSD250KMILES
I HAVE been running wvo for 150k
70degrees in garage
yesterday morning truck wont start,
is parked in garage, shut off on diesel, been running great,
checked oil and it was sticky and thick on end off dipstick
tried to change oil, wouldnt come out, plugged in engine heater for 24hrs
looks like wvo and oil mixed in engine
oil drained out in big blobs, changed oil and filter, truck starts right up, but runs poorly, removed valve covers sticky stuff all over,
how can i clean inside of engine
and where is wvo getting in oil
thanks for your help
 

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Sorry to hear, couple q's to help understand.

What type of oil you running, sythetic? How long on the oil change interval?

What type of veg system (DIY, vegistroke, GFS)? Some info on your switchover process, i.e how long purge/run cycle?

You obviously have a ton of veg miles on the truck but that may have nothing to do with it.

Can you isolate which cylinder is washing down with a contribution test (if the covers are back on)? Someone with more experience will chime in, but cracked injector?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
reply wvo in engine oil

i switchover to diesel on way to and from destination or if i forget to switchover i let truck run for 5 to 10 minutes
my system is diy, heated tank heated filter and head and fphe
my switchover system has a delay relay and pressure sensor on veg pump (wvo designs)and a delay relay on diesel pump (fass) so both pumps run (pressure, delay)on switchover
i did find injector that was bad, had a broken intensifier piston
how much wvo does it take to gel oil? im going to do a test on that
ive pulled all injectors and taken them apart and cleaned them
i change my oil every 3k religiously 15/40 Rotella
ive changed oil twice and run truck about 100 miles each time since finding sludge in oil
thanks for the reply
 

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Fantastic that it happened where you didn't drive a bunch with the veg mixed in. I suppose there is no way to know when that is going to happen.

Did you snap any pics of the 150k veggie injectors before cleaning? Much buildup?

Is she back to running good after the short oil changes?
 

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call me nuts ... just do it now and get it over with but I will share the "trick" I learned several years ago taught by an old school wrench.

To get the goop out, drain what you can and top off the crank case with diesel. Crank it. If it fires up, let it run! Shut it down and drain it all out. Then refill with mostly diesel and a quart of marvel mystery oil. Crank it again ... if it runs, let it run no more than 5 minutes. Shut it down and drain. You ought to get all the old sludge and goop out of the engine. Fill with cheap oil and drive 50 miles. Drain that out and replace with Rotella and a new filter and you will have cleaned it out.
 

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call me nuts ... just do it now and get it over with but I will share the "trick" I learned several years ago taught by an old school wrench.

To get the goop out, drain what you can and top off the crank case with diesel. Crank it. If it fires up, let it run! Shut it down and drain it all out. Then refill with mostly diesel and a quart of marvel mystery oil. Crank it again ... if it runs, let it run no more than 5 minutes. Shut it down and drain. You ought to get all the old sludge and goop out of the engine. Fill with cheap oil and drive 50 miles. Drain that out and replace with Rotella and a new filter and you will have cleaned it out.

Why not, right? At this point of the game, what do you got to lose.
 

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I read that in Japan they run cars over 2 years old with BioD in the Crankcase to clean out deposits and then drain it.
Same idea I guess
 

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Discussion Starter #11
does diesel have enough lubricity to lubricate engines bearings? we use diesel in the oilfield to clean, but ive never put in an engine
 

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Yeah diesel in the crank case sounds scary to me...I guess it makes sense hypothetically, but not sure I'd want to try that?
 

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If it saved the OP from having to pull the engine to inspect/fix, it's worth a shot at this point in my mind (if the short interval changes are not working already). But 5 mins run time would seem like an eternity with d2 in the case....:please:
 

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I wouldn't try the diesel fuel in the crank case with today's diesel. The old school wrench hand he was talking about was most likely talking about back in the day when diesel wasn't this ULSD garbage we are forced to run in our engines today. It doesn't have the lubricity that the old LSD had. If your going to try that trick (which did and does work just scared to do it with todays fuel) today with ULSD than I would be adding some sort of lubricity agent such as a good 2 stroke oil or something cheap to aid in the lubrication of the engine.
 

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What about using some bio-D? Should have a good deal more lubricity.
 

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If it actually contains diesel fuel than I would say it could possibly work. Am I going to try it? Not likely lol. That said the reason that fuel in the crank case got brought up is that diesel fuel is a great degreaser and cleaner. We use diesel fuel and kerosene to clean dirty engine parts all the time works wonders.
 

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2KF2507.3PSD250KMILES
I HAVE been running wvo for 150k
70degrees in garage
yesterday morning truck wont start,
is parked in garage, shut off on diesel, been running great,
checked oil and it was sticky and thick on end off dipstick
tried to change oil, wouldnt come out, plugged in engine heater for 24hrs
looks like wvo and oil mixed in engine
oil drained out in big blobs, changed oil and filter, truck starts right up, but runs poorly, removed valve covers sticky stuff all over,
how can i clean inside of engine
and where is wvo getting in oil
thanks for your help
In response to the OP, gunk in the crankcase from running WVO-based fuels si not uncommon. The cause is blow-by brings the WVO into contact with your motor oil. WVO and motor oil make glue when combined. The cause of the blow-by is coke accumulations in the engine from running high ash content fuels, or improper combustion, and/or both.
call me nuts ... just do it now and get it over with but I will share the "trick" I learned several years ago taught by an old school wrench.

To get the goop out, drain what you can and top off the crank case with diesel. Crank it. If it fires up, let it run! Shut it down and drain it all out. Then refill with mostly diesel and a quart of marvel mystery oil. Crank it again ... if it runs, let it run no more than 5 minutes. Shut it down and drain. You ought to get all the old sludge and goop out of the engine. Fill with cheap oil and drive 50 miles. Drain that out and replace with Rotella and a new filter and you will have cleaned it out.
I regularly use this method of flushing my engine out to remove crud, and dirt, before replacing the oil filter and motor oil.

However, unfortunately the sludge that is the product of WMO meets WVO is not soluble in petroleum distillates. It is liquid at 160F, so heating the engine and creating a cold trap where the crud can collect does work.

The coldest parts of the engine are the valve cover, oil pan and oil filter. So, the if the valve cover and oil pan were insulated, while a oil filter were actively cooled with a fan, then it might be possible to run an engine up to operating to force the sludge into the oil filter. I have done various experiments like this with one of my engines and it worked fine, but it took several oil filters to collect all of the sludge.

Here are photos of the sludge I removed from one of my research engines with this problem.
This is what came out of the oil pan when I put a hot plate on it overnight

This is what came out of my fuel tank after a WVO+WMO blending experiment

This is sludge in my fuel line from that experiment
 
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