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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago, the wrench light came on and I put the truck in limp mode at a red light a few miles down the road. I got it to a gas station and let it cool off for a while and I disconnected the batteries to reset any codes. It went away and hasn't been back until last night. It hasn't gone into limp mode yet but the light comes on every time I get on the gas and turns off when I shut the truck off. Idk what could be causing it.

EOT's and ECT's are normal and within 5 degrees
Boost is a little bit low
No codes
I've noticed a bunch of what looks like oil and dirt in the intake manifold but idk if that is related
The truck also has an EGR delete and the turbo was rebuilt and cleaned about 15-20k ago if that makes a difference
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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If you have a wrench light, you will have a code. Problem is that some cheap scan tools can't read all of the codes.

What scan tool are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its an Ultragauge and I've never had problems reading codes on it before
 

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Some codes are readable by generic code readers and some are not. ForScan is the best aftermarket code reader you can buy for the money ($5 download and $40 OBDII adapter).

I assure you there is a code. Your call.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Decided to take the truck to advance to get the codes read and the light never came on. I drove close to 30 miles and the truck acted fine the whole way. I'll post again if I have anymore problems.
 

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Some codes are readable by generic code readers and some are not. ForScan is the best aftermarket code reader you can buy for the money ($5 download and $40 OBDII adapter).

I assure you there is a code. Your call.
BAFX and ODBLink MX+ are two readers that will work
there are a few differences in the two, like auto shut off, read speed, and smaller size
$21.99 and free shipping for the BAFX reader -- hard to beat the price for a reader that is compatible

 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:
The light started coming on again so i went and borrowed a friend's scanner. I checked everything multiple times so these are all of the codes I've found.

P0401- EGR Valve (Caused by EGR delete)
P0404- EGR Circuit Range
P1408- EGR Circuit Range
U1900- (CAN) Communication BUS Fault (ABS)
P1464- A/C Circuit Range (Pretty sure it is unrelated)
P1703- Brake Switch Out of Self Test Range (Only showed once and pretty sure it was caused by me messing the KOER test up)
P2104- Throttle Actuator Control System- Forced Idle (Causes limp mode)
P2138- Throttle Position Sensor "D"/"E" Voltage Correlation
P2140- Throttle Position Sensor "E"/"F" Voltage Correlation

The P2104 code causes the truck to go into forced idle which means the engine will only idle and will have no throttle response and will cause the wrench light to come on.
 

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I can’t speak specifically to the 6.0, but in general a THrottle Position SEnsor has three sensors and all three need to Correlate. If one is out of wack, a code pops up, and if two are out of wack, it enters a limp home mode. With no TPS sensors correlating, how is the TPS Supposed to know which of the three sensors to trust to inject fuel in the truck?

So could be switching the TPS would fix it, but may be better to trace back the wires and connectors to see things like shorts, opens, rubbing and chafing.
 

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Look, there is no throttle cable in these trucks. There are a series of sensors that tell the engine what amount of fuel, where the "gas peddle" is in relation to on/off % and a computer that deciphers it all. You can't "guess", it's like try to find out where your computer got a virus.
Anyways, my point being, you came here for advice, then when your given advice, you decide that your answer is better. Why you come here?
Take the advice given and run with it. Otherwise, take the truck to a shop and let them handle it.
 

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Its an Ultragauge and I've never had problems reading codes on it before
Sounds like time to throw that ultra gauge in the trash, lol ..................

Look, there is no throttle cable in these trucks. There are a series of sensors that tell the engine what amount of fuel, where the "gas peddle" is in relation to on/off % and a computer that deciphers it all. You can't "guess", it's like try to find out where your computer got a virus.
Anyways, my point being, you came here for advice, then when your given advice, you decide that your answer is better. Why you come here?
Take the advice given and run with it. Otherwise, take the truck to a shop and let them handle it.
Well, at least (after repeated insistence that there were codes) he got a decent scan tool on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The light comes on then goes away when I shut the truck off. Sometimes it'll come on 5 times in a day sometimes it'll go a week without coming on. I only use the ultragauge for what its meant for...gauges...and don't always have access to a high quality scanner. Money is tight as I'm sure y'all will understand. I just don't see the point in dumping 200 bucks on a new throttle assembly (As far as I know that's the only way to replace the sensors) when I don't see how it could be the problem because its so all over the place.

Look, there is no throttle cable in these trucks. There are a series of sensors that tell the engine what amount of fuel, where the "gas peddle" is in relation to on/off % and a computer that deciphers it all. You can't "guess", it's like try to find out where your computer got a virus.
Anyways, my point being, you came here for advice, then when your given advice, you decide that your answer is better. Why you come here?
Take the advice given and run with it. Otherwise, take the truck to a shop and let them handle it.
The only advice I was given was to get another scan tool, which I did.

I'm gonna try ChrisSki's idea tomorrow. Thank you to the people that were actually being helpful.
 

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ForScan was recommended to you because it is very thorough on these trucks -- did you follow up on this?
post #4 and #6
 
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I just have to add if money is tight you need to seriously consider parking the truck and not driving it or selling it altogether.

I’m sitting at around 1$ a mile cost since I got this truck. The work adds up quick and its fine for thousands of miles, and all of a sudden it needs new injectors, so it adds up.Diesel trucks trucks, not just 6.0s or Fords have been the financial ruin life many a people.

Too many temptations if Money is tight to skimp on things like OEM filters etc. and the things the non-OEM parts take off like the fuel water separator on the fuel filter can cause much more damage than you’ll ever save.
 
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