Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
working on step 2 ( Cab on head stud/manifold install)

well i finally recieved the rest of my latest parts and im in the process of installing. heres the new arrivals. arp head studs, ported and coated 6.0 manifolds, rudys custom up pipes coated, and a double disc sintered iron clutch. i started the installing today and its definately a process that requires some patience! so far i have the old clutch out and the new flywheel in. the manifolds are in and the driver side head is now done and studded:woot:. by the way im doing all of this cab on which is a good reason why its taking two days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
Hopefully the job goes well for you :thumb:

How were the studs to do so far?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
Subscribed for updates
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Pics and updates please! How did the studding go with the cab on?

Did you pull one stud at a time or pull the heads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well all done! :woot::woot: i just drove the truck home from my dads garage and all is well so far on the maiden voyage. it was was getting a little late so i just kinda did a good once over before i decided to head home with it. ill be doing the coolant flush tomorrow as well.

Anyhow i took some pictures and im not sure how to post them but ill figure that out soon. But i did the studs one at a time. that acually wasnt all that bad. i was really surprised. now dont get me wrong there isnt a lot of room on the back studs but it can be done. ill get a write up done here soon though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
Well all done! :woot::woot: i just drove the truck home from my dads garage and all is well so far on the maiden voyage. it was was getting a little late so i just kinda did a good once over before i decided to head home with it. ill be doing the coolant flush tomorrow as well.

Anyhow i took some pictures and im not sure how to post them but ill figure that out soon. But i did the studs one at a time. that acually wasnt all that bad. i was really surprised. now dont get me wrong there isnt a lot of room on the back studs but it can be done. ill get a write up done here soon though!
Thanks for the update and feedback. If you need help hosting them let me know and I can help you out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Awesome!

Please post the how to of the studs one at a time. I'm very interested
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ok so this is how i attacked my truck this past weekend....
first off i was doing heads studs, ported 6.0 manifolds with up pipes, and a double disc clutch. so to give myself more room for the manifolds and the up pipes i pulled the transmission, clutch, and all the necessary components that go with it( transfer case, front/rear driveshafts, cross member, slave cylinder, shifter, shift tower etc.) and one note on the front driveshaft is it works best to use a good 8mm 6 point socket to remove the front yoke of the driveshaft so you dont round off the bolts. just my two cents.


Manifolds
First off if your doing a 6.0 manifold upgrade i would highly reccommend having your A/C system pumped out and buy new bolts for the manifolds since the old ones are about 1/2" too long. And another thing to do is match the gaskets to the manifolds with a dremmel or something similar.
Ok first i removed the down pipe and then the up pipes and egr down pipe. now is where things got fun. Since i was doing the manifolds and studs i wanted to make sure i was going to do it in a way that had the easiest access for both things i was doing so to do the manifolds im not saying all of the following steps are absolutely necessary but i did find it made it easier to see/do. Now to get to the driverside manifold i went and removed the driverside inner fender(8mm and a 6mm bolts), the battery tray and coolant reservoir (13mm) (i disconnected both batteries and drained all the coolant) then disconnected the radiator hose, the lower hose from the reservoir, and the small coolant hose on the front of the reservoir. Once that was out of the way i unscrewed the back pressure line and then removed the manifold (10mm). Now for the passenger side manifold i again removed the inner fender(8mm and 6mm) now i took a 3/8 ratchet and a cheater bar to slack the alternator belt and then slid an allen wrench into the tensioner slot to hold it slacked, then i pulled the air box and then i removed the alternator (13mm). Next thing i did and i dont know if there is any way around it, but i removed the 2 A/C lines from the compressor and the one upper stud from the compressor. Once that is out of the way i unbolted the heat sheild and then the manifold, now its really tight for some of the bolts but i found that a 3/8 air ratchet was really helpful and if you had a 1/4 drive air ratchet you would probably be better off. Now some of the bolts are still hard to get at but a good 12 point wrench is good enough to get the front bottom ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok here we go!!!

Head studs
Before attempting to do my studs i bought about 3-16mm impact sockets(kobalt) just in case as well as 4-13/16 12 point sockets (craftsman) only because i have heard of so many people breaking them. I would also suggest locating a torque wrench that goes to 275ft/lbs (as dumb as it sounds i had a hard time finding one, all of the 1/2" drive ones i found only went to 250ft/lbs so i had to use a 3/4" for my final torque) and if you have a 3/4 drive make sure you buy a decent adapter to go to 1/2 drive unless obviously you have a 13/16 12 point 3/4" drive.
First i disconnected the batteries and drained the coolant(i put a hose on the drain so it didn’t make such a mess) then removed the driver side battery and reservoir along with both inner fenders. On the driver side i also removed the one plastic Y coolant line that connects to the timing cover (2-8mm bolts 1 by water pupp and 1 on head). Next i removed the fuel lines from the fuel cooler(17mm) dont lose the washers/gaskets i put them on the banjo bolts and screwed them back into the cooler. Then unbolt the turbo vane acuator arm and the 3 bolts that hold the acuator to the turbo(10mm). Now you should be ready to unbolt the bracket that holds the cooler and the turbo cross over tube. Dont forget to unplug the connector that goes to the acuator motor. Once you unbolt it you can set the cooler, bracket, and vane acuator where the battery box was. Then disconnect the glow plug harness at the front of the valve cover and remove the glow plug connectors. Be sure not to pull on the wires when unplugging the glow plugs. I popped the rubber grommets out of the valve cover a little bit and then pinched the T connector and gently wiggled and it seemed to work pretty easy. Now remove the back pressure tube from the manifold and now you should be able to remove the valve cover(10-12mm bolts and the bolts and studs locations dont have to be marked since they dont completely come out of the valve cover). Now you should be ready to start your studs. I had a 3" and a 6" 1/2" drive extension on hand and a standard 16mm 6 point impact socket. Some of the bolts you can get with an impact gun but the rest i used a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar. Obviously be extremely careful breaking these bolts loose because there isn’t a lot of clearance near your injectors. I removed the bolts in the same order as the arp torque sequence and then installed the stud and used a 3/16 Allen wrench to hand tighten the studs in the block.( i prepped all of the studs with a light coat of oil on the coarse block side threads and then the moly lube on the fine thread side threads of the studs and i also put moly on both sides of the washers and on the nuts) take your time tightening the stud with the allen wrench because there is oil in the bolt holes and it can give you a false sense of being tight. Then i tightened the nut to the first torque torque setting 90ft/lbs then i loosened it up and retorqued again to 90ft/lbs and then torqued to the second torque setting 175ft/lbs. For the back bolts i had to jack the back of the motor up( i had the transmission out already so you can probably loosen the transmission mount and jack up the back of the transmission) And to torque the back bolts down i went through the inner fender, its tight but it seemed to work for my truck. Once i had all of the studs in i went and did my final torque of 275ft/lbs in the recommended order. I then removed the air box and intake tube going to the turbo. Then i unbolted the oil fill reservoir 4-8mm bolts. Next i disconnected the heater hose from the plastic line on the top of the valve cover. Be careful with this because its easy to break, this plastic line will be somewhat of a nuisance when torqueing the studs down later,but you can gently move it while your torquing the studs. Then disconnect the glow plug harness at the front of the valve cover and remove the glow plug connectors. Just like on the drivers side be sure not to pull on the wires when unplugging the glow plugs. Now finish up disconnecting the rest of the wiring on the valve cover there are 2 connectors on the glow plug control box on the back half of it and one small one for your egt sensor as well as one last connector on the fire wall above the A/C accumulator. Next thing to do is unbolt the A/C accumulator 2-10mm nuts. Now there is one bolt to remove from the heat shield under the turbo and then pry up the shield to remove the bolt that holds the bracket to the valve cover 4-8mm. Now you should be ready to remove the valve cover 10-12mm bolts.(the bolts don’t come out of the valve cover so you don’t need to mark where the studs and bolts go) Now you should have access to the head bolts. Same as the drivers side some of the bolts you can get with an impact gun but the rest i used a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar. I again removed the bolts in the same order as the arp torque sequence and then installed the stud and used a 3/16 Allen wrench to hand tighten the studs in the block. Then i tightened the nut to the first torque torque setting 90ft/lbs ( remember to be careful to not break the heater line on the passenger side head)then i loosened it up and retorqued again to 90ft/lbs and then torqued to the second torque setting 175ft/lbs. For the back bolts i had to jack the back of the motor up. And to torque the back bolts down especially the back lower stud i moved the A/C accumulator and torqued it through the inner fender its tight but it seemed to work for my truck. Once i had all of the studs in i went and did my final torque 275ft/lbs in the recommended order. Now the worst one i had to do was the back lower passenger side, and like i said i did that one through the inner fender. The one A/C line was in the way for my 3/4 drive torque wrench but i was able to use a regular short socket and slide the wrench under the line and do my torque. Now your done!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,149 Posts
awesome posts! good job!!! so detailed. would like to tackle it but not so profficient at removing the trans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks capt dong! I'm sure i forgot something but i hope its still helpful. By the way great job with the dyno numbers

Sent from my SPH-D710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
240 Posts
Great post, helped me a lot this weekend when I did mine! I would like to add one thing, on the pass side to make things easier I would suggest just removing the accumulator to the a/c if u have access to some gauges and 134a
( I do HVAC so it was easy for me) by doing so it makes that pass side ALOT easer.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Great post, helped me a lot this weekend when I did mine! I would like to add one thing, on the pass side to make things easier I would suggest just removing the accumulator to the a/c if u have access to some gauges and 134a
( I do HVAC so it was easy for me) by doing so it makes that pass side ALOT easer.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Agreed! If I had an a/c machine I definately would've removed it. It would've made life a lot easier. I'm glad this helped ya out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Ok here we go!!!

Head studs
Before attempting to do my studs i bought about 3-16mm impact sockets(kobalt) just in case as well as 4-13/16 12 point sockets (craftsman) only because i have heard of so many people breaking them. I would also suggest locating a torque wrench that goes to 275ft/lbs (as dumb as it sounds i had a hard time finding one, all of the 1/2" drive ones i found only went to 250ft/lbs so i had to use a 3/4" for my final torque) and if you have a 3/4 drive make sure you buy a decent adapter to go to 1/2 drive unless obviously you have a 13/16 12 point 3/4" drive.


First i disconnected the batteries and drained the coolant(i put a hose on the drain so it didn’t make such a mess) then removed the driver side battery and reservoir along with both inner fenders. On the driver side i also removed the one plastic Y coolant line that connects to the timing cover (2-8mm bolts 1 by water pupp and 1 on head). Next i removed the fuel lines from the fuel cooler(17mm) dont lose the washers/gaskets i put them on the banjo bolts and screwed them back into the cooler. Then unbolt the turbo vane acuator arm and the 3 bolts that hold the acuator to the turbo(10mm). Now you should be ready to unbolt the bracket that holds the cooler and the turbo cross over tube. Dont forget to unplug the connector that goes to the acuator motor. Once you unbolt it you can set the cooler, bracket, and vane acuator where the battery box was. Then disconnect the glow plug harness at the front of the valve cover and remove the glow plug connectors. Be sure not to pull on the wires when unplugging the glow plugs.


I popped the rubber grommets out of the valve cover a little bit and then pinched the T connector and gently wiggled and it seemed to work pretty easy. Now remove the back pressure tube from the manifold and now you should be able to remove the valve cover(10-12mm bolts and the bolts and studs locations dont have to be marked since they dont completely come out of the valve cover). Now you should be ready to start your studs. I had a 3" and a 6" 1/2" drive extension on hand and a standard 16mm 6 point impact socket. Some of the bolts you can get with an impact gun but the rest i used a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar. Obviously be extremely careful breaking these bolts loose because there isn’t a lot of clearance near your injectors. I removed the bolts in the same order as the arp torque sequence and then installed the stud and used a 3/16 Allen wrench to hand tighten the studs in the block.

( i prepped all of the studs with a light coat of oil on the coarse block side threads and then the moly lube on the fine thread side threads of the studs and i also put moly on both sides of the washers and on the nuts) take your time tightening the stud with the allen wrench because there is oil in the bolt holes and it can give you a false sense of being tight. Then i tightened the nut to the first torque torque setting 90ft/lbs then i loosened it up and retorqued again to 90ft/lbs and then torqued to the second torque setting 175ft/lbs. For the back bolts i had to jack the back of the motor up( i had the transmission out already so you can probably loosen the transmission mount and jack up the back of the transmission) And to torque the back bolts down i went through the inner fender, its tight but it seemed to work for my truck. Once i had all of the studs in i went and did my final torque of 275ft/lbs in the recommended order. I then removed the air box and intake tube going to the turbo. Then i unbolted the oil fill reservoir 4-8mm bolts.

Next i disconnected the heater hose from the plastic line on the top of the valve cover. Be careful with this because its easy to break, this plastic line will be somewhat of a nuisance when torqueing the studs down later,but you can gently move it while your torquing the studs. Then disconnect the glow plug harness at the front of the valve cover and remove the glow plug connectors. Just like on the drivers side be sure not to pull on the wires when unplugging the glow plugs. Now finish up disconnecting the rest of the wiring on the valve cover there are 2 connectors on the glow plug control box on the back half of it and one small one for your egt sensor as well as one last connector on the fire wall above the A/C accumulator. Next thing to do is unbolt the A/C accumulator 2-10mm nuts. Now there is one bolt to remove from the heat shield under the turbo and then pry up the shield to remove the bolt that holds the bracket to the valve cover 4-8mm.

Now you should be ready to remove the valve cover 10-12mm bolts.(the bolts don’t come out of the valve cover so you don’t need to mark where the studs and bolts go) Now you should have access to the head bolts. Same as the drivers side some of the bolts you can get with an impact gun but the rest i used a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar. I again removed the bolts in the same order as the arp torque sequence and then installed the stud and used a 3/16 Allen wrench to hand tighten the studs in the block. Then i tightened the nut to the first torque torque setting 90ft/lbs ( remember to be careful to not break the heater line on the passenger side head)then i loosened it up and retorqued again to 90ft/lbs and then torqued to the second torque setting 175ft/lbs. For the back bolts i had to jack the back of the motor up. And to torque the back bolts down especially the back lower stud i moved the A/C accumulator and torqued it through the inner fender its tight but it seemed to work for my truck.

Once i had all of the studs in i went and did my final torque 275ft/lbs in the recommended order. Now the worst one i had to do was the back lower passenger side, and like i said i did that one through the inner fender. The one A/C line was in the way for my 3/4 drive torque wrench but i was able to use a regular short socket and slide the wrench under the line and do my torque. Now your done!
I had to break it down in paragraphs to read it lol. Where in PA are you located from? Also want to help with mine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
do you have a manual trans??? how does the mbrp downpipe fit???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I had to break it down in paragraphs to read it lol. Where in PA are you located from? Also want to help with mine?
Im in Montrose. In the middle of nowhere :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
do you have a manual trans??? how does the mbrp downpipe fit???
If that question is for me, then yes I do and I have a flo pro downpipe. And I had to dent it. But from what I hear street diesel performance makes one that fits way better.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top