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Interior Guru
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Im a new 7.3L owner and have been letting my truck start and idle for about 5min before driving with this 20degree weather here in michigan. I did notice yesterday that the truck for the first 2 miles or so was very slow to accelerate no matter where the pedal was at. I was just trying to get up to 55mph not putting the pedal to the floor. Is that normal in the cold??
Yes, thats normal. Its more than likely because the EBPV is closed, and the truck is COLD, and not isnt causing a good combustion in the chamber.

Try to let the truck warm up for 10-15 minutes when its cold out. 5 minutes wont do much at all.
 

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is there any damage done to having the truck plugged in while starting it? ive forgot a few times and dont know if its hurting my truck
Wont hurt a thing as long as you remember to unplug it before you leave
 

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Wont hurt a thing as long as you remember to unplug it before you leave
:hehe:Even that won't hurt anything. I know:doh:
Left for school one morning, and didn't even realize it was still plugged in till I got home that afternoon. Nothing bad, just unplugged automatically:woot:
 

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The transmission is also temperature sensitive and plugging in the block heater isn't going to help it. It will not shift out of second gear until it is damn good and ready. It will not lockup either. In fact, mine, once it does lockup will unlock once the thermo valve opens the cooler line and that slug of cold oil hits the transmission. At least, I think that is what is happening.

First off, great post.

Second, the trans holding gears to a higher RPM than you would expect and the TC not locking up are completely normal. It is done to try to build heat in the fluid. Cold transmission fluid is very inefficient so there are a few tricks calibrated in to warm up the fluid as fast as it can. People should also be aware that shift engagements take longer (ie shifting from R to D). If you back out of your drive and shift into D, give the trans an extra second or so before you push the accel pedal. Giving an extra second will make sure the cltuch pack is fully engaged and will prevent any torque loaded slip shift.

Agreed, don't rev your truck at stop lights much over 1400 or so (about what a high idle cal would do).

leave a bottle of 911 additive under the backseat. Never know when you'll need it.
 

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:hehe:Even that won't hurt anything. I know:doh:
Left for school one morning, and didn't even realize it was still plugged in till I got home that afternoon. Nothing bad, just unplugged automatically:woot:
yeah...managed to do that one last winter. i was like o sh!t....but then i was like hmm i wonder if i can do that and it will auto unplug itself in the morning. now to just find a way to make it auto plug in.......:hehe:
 

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Another tip, from the frozen north.

When your truck is idling, and warming up. This only applies to 4wd trucks.

Put the transfer case in neutral, and the trans in 2nd gear or reverse. This helps to get things spinning and liquified in the front end of the drivetrain.

Make sure the t-case goes to neutral. I have been doing this for years, helps save on changing output seals in extremely cold weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
I set my truck up on high idle AFTER the guage reads NORMAL oil pressure also.

I think im going to order my stancor today. My truck is a PAIN to start in the winter, and it took 3 cycles of 2 minutes each to start today.

As for batteries, I replaced mine with DIE-HARD platinum P-4's last winter, and they have been very good to me so far.

I agree that if your batteries are older than 3-4 years, replace them. If they get run dead ONCE, replace them. They will never hold a charge like they used to.
I think I am also going to purchase a cold front for the front of my truck too. We get alot of wind here, and it eats up my truck when its cold.
Cycling the key does no good at all!!! Much better to wait 30-45 sec or so and then kick it over. If you are seriously waiting two min for the GP's no wonder it is hard to start, you're gp's have already shut off!!!!!
Try it my way and see if I am not right.

On the batteries, I don't agree with your statement. My stock batteries lasted 6 years so if I followed your advice I would have thrown away batteries that still had 2-3 years of starts left in them. I don't usually make a habit of replacing parts that aren't bad. Batteries have so many variables, what type of battery, cca rating, how often do you drive it, the temps you drive in, etc..... You just can't make blanket statements like that.

NCH
 

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Cycling the key does no good at all!!! Much better to wait 30-45 sec or so and then kick it over. If you are seriously waiting two min for the GP's no wonder it is hard to start, you're gp's have already shut off!!!!!
Try it my way and see if I am not right.


NCH
I dont cycle it three times, then crank. I let it do its thing, then crank, then do it again. Thats why I mean by cycle. It took three cycles to start including an attempted start.

I did try the 30 second thing. it didnt work. My remote starter is set to wait 30 seconds then crank. It cranked 3 times like that before I went out and had to make it stop and start it manually. Had to cycle it (1-2 minutes with a crank after every cycle as always) twice before it would start. and it was only 25*

I usually wait for the light to shut off, then try it once or twice, then goto the following if its REALLY cold.

I listen for the relay kick, as soon as it kicks off, I hit the key. I dont time it.
 

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Thread closed at Kevin's request. Feel free to PM him with questions.
 
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