Please post when you can. Thanks
Why you shouldn't drive around with injector codes!
Haven't driven my truck but a few times in months, just very short distances. Shortly after I got my early 04 6.0 CC KR swb 4x4 FX4, I started to notice a very slight stumble down the interstate, hardly noticeable. Not long after, my truck started to shudder at around 55-65 mph. I could get on it and it would get up and go, then start to stumble again. This now included rough idle. No unusual smoke, started fine.
Pulled P0270 - #4 injector circuit low and P0272 - #4 injector balance/contribution
I ohm tested both sets of pins #1-2 @ 51.69 ohm and #3-4 @ 0.7 ohm. I knew then that one of the coils was bad. Fast forward to today......
Pulled it out today and found the coil screw nut backed off and the screw was hanging loose. I found the nut. I'll try to post pics, apparently I can't do that from my phone.
Sent from my SCH-I500
Pulled P0270 - #4 injector circuit low and P0272 - #4 injector balance/contribution
I ohm tested both sets of pins #1-2 @ 51.69 ohm and #3-4 @ 0.7 ohm. I knew then that one of the coils was bad. Fast forward to today......
Pulled it out today and found the coil screw nut backed off and the screw was hanging loose. I found the nut. I'll try to post pics, apparently I can't do that from my phone.
Sent from my SCH-I500
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you know i have been having the same problem with mine since i bought it almost 2 years ago. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what the problem was. I know when I bought the truck we took it to the dealership about this problem and they said it had blown hg's and bad oil cooler and was throwing contribution codes for the injectors but i haven't been able to get codes to pop up for the injectors. I still have a feeling that some are on their way out but time will tell when I rip it apart for the hg's.
Yea, I posted this so it might help other guys having similar problems. Ohm testing the injectors is fairly easy and can tell you alot.
Sent from my SCH-I500
Sent from my SCH-I500
do you have to pull them to ohm test them? if so that will have to wait til i rip into it to do the hg's lol. I have had the top end of this motor ripped apart 3 times already and now its going to be a forth lol I dont want to do it again.
No, you just disconnect the injector. The hardest part is making sure you get on the pins correctly. They are small. It should be .4-.6 ohm at ambient temp. The corresponding pin #'s are printed on the plug. #1-2 and #3-4. At least with this check you can know if it is an electrical failure vs mechanical.do you have to pull them to ohm test them? if so that will have to wait til i rip into it to do the hg's lol. I have had the top end of this motor ripped apart 3 times already and now its going to be a forth lol I dont want to do it again.
Edit: the new injector ohmed out at .8 for both coils at ambient temp.
Sent from my SCH-I500
Good deal, that said if its electrical is it repairable or would I still have to replace them?
Replace them as far as I know, those coils are finicky.Good deal, that said if its electrical is it repairable or would I still have to replace them?
Sent from my SCH-I500
lol well that said before i rip mine apart for the hg's i'll get my buddy to bring the dealership computer scanner home and run injector tests to tell me which ones are bad or are going then get some new ones to stick in their places.
Southend good info I am having a low contribution on #6 and had seen you tell someone else about the ohm test. what do you mean - are they are marked on the pins to the ficm?
Yes, tiny little numbers, but you should be able to see them.:thumbup:
Edit: The numbers are on the ficm side plug(female), the pins are the injector side (male).
Sent from my SCH-I500
Edit: The numbers are on the ficm side plug(female), the pins are the injector side (male).
Sent from my SCH-I500
wow thats nuts, this morning I through a code, P0263 wich means Cylinder 1 Injector Contribution/Balance Fault. If you cleared the code does it come back immediatly ? B/c I cleared mine in the morning at like 0700 and the rest of the day the code never came back.
Yep found many spool valve nuts left over from previous repairs.
I've often wondered exactly why this happens. Is it a cause or effect? Does the nut come loose and cause a miss or does the nut come loose because of some other internal failure?
I've often wondered exactly why this happens. Is it a cause or effect? Does the nut come loose and cause a miss or does the nut come loose because of some other internal failure?
yes the codes would come back quickly, remember, i had two different codes. one for balance/contribution and the other for injector circuit low. I looked at it a little closer, the spool valve moves back and forth, smooth as butter. since one of the coils tested out bad, i will have to replace it. I believe the injector circuit low code was because one of the coils was bad, and the balance/contribution code because the injector was unable to inject fuel. If the screw would not have come out the spool valve may have still worked partially, and i may have only gotten the injector circuit low code until it would have finally stopped. IDK?wow thats nuts, this morning I through a code, P0263 wich means Cylinder 1 Injector Contribution/Balance Fault. If you cleared the code does it come back immediatly ? B/c I cleared mine in the morning at like 0700 and the rest of the day the code never came back.
I know this is gonna sound newb but when you say the coils tested out bad, what exactly do you mean ? Is the coil an internal piece of the injector?
...Maybe my injector had slight sticking, i'll throw a bottle of rev-x in thier for extra messure even tho the code didnt come back.
...Maybe my injector had slight sticking, i'll throw a bottle of rev-x in thier for extra messure even tho the code didnt come back.
i explained the ohm test in the beginning, the ohm values for one of the coils was out of spec. There are two coils shown in the picture that move the spool valve back and forth(open and close). My open coil tested out bad, plus the screw fell out, so the coils could not move the spool valve. Save your money on the Rev-X, that is the first thing i did before i educated myself, it did not work. The rev-x is useful if you are having cold start problems, stiction(when the spool valve is sticking).I know this is gonna sound newb but when you say the coils tested out bad, what exactly do you mean ? Is the coil an internal piece of the injector?
...Maybe my injector had slight sticking, i'll throw a bottle of rev-x in thier for extra messure even tho the code didnt come back.
Edit: re-read you post, if it is cold start problem with yours, rev-x may help. If it is hot, and acting up, it will not likely help. It is fairly easy to check the coils.
ok thanx for the info man ! Im tearing my ficm out tomm. and get it sent off to ficmrepair, my volts been low on start. While my truck is down, i'll take the injector out and inspect it along with the wiring harness. If I have any ?'s mind if I hit you up with a pm ?
No problem, i'm no expert, lol. But i enjoy helping however i can. I'm hoping this post helps, others with similiar problems. I would test the coils before you pull it out, pulling it out you can inspect for bad orings and blow-by on the copper washer, but that usually causes fuel pressure problems and/or combustion gas to enter your fuel system, with other symtoms included.ok thanx for the info man ! Im tearing my ficm out tomm. and get it sent off to ficmrepair, my volts been low on start. While my truck is down, i'll take the injector out and inspect it along with the wiring harness. If I have any ?'s mind if I hit you up with a pm ?
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
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