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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys I've read and read and idk what's going on I have a 2004 hd edition f250 6.0 and the batteries keep dying if the truck sits for a day or two I put a brand new alternator on it 2 weeks ago and it cranked fine even after sitting 3 days... I can drive the truck everyday and it won't die bit I it sits it won't do anything but click click click.... Help please? I tested the batteries but this was after I jumped it off and for it to my buddy's shop and on the digital tester one of them tested bad so we used another tester and they tested good and charging system was working fine I'm positive I messed the ficm up letting this happen a few times Bc truck runs like crap until warm and that's the code it throws but does this have any effect on the batteries? What should I do?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't replaced the batteries yet that was my next thing to do... The alternator is from O'reilieys it was under warranty Bc I put one on it 2 years ago
 

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Mine did the same thing actually went threw three alternators and the last time the alternator took a crap it took out one battery so I replaced both of them been good ever since
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok I'm going to take the batteries out and have them tested.... I'm leaning more toward something sucking power while the truck is off I've pulled every fuse I know of and checked... Bad ground maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Weird thing too when the truck is off I can hear a little buzzzz coming from the alternator?
 

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Ok guys I had the batteries tested and they were 95% and under load tester great too...? I still hear that buzzing sound from alternator when the truck is off but it's new alternator, could it still be bad? Also could it be starter going bad sucking power? Thanks
 

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It's entirely possible that the new alternator is bad. I bought an aftermarket 220a alternator and it was dead right out of the box. The buzzing sound you're talking about.....I don't think I've ever heard of someone with a similar issue.

Do you have a mulitmeter or other way of checking battery volts?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes I do.... And the buzzing I've found out is the regulator sticking inside the alternator that's why it cranks sometimes and it's not sucking enough juice to kill the battery overnight... But sitting for a couple days pulling power is killing them
 

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I just subscribed to this thread because this sounds like exactly what I have going on with my truck. I went as far as disconnecting the Neg. terminal at both batteries and using a test light connecting from the battery post to the clamp to find the draw by pulling fuses until the test light went out or dimmed.

I don't want to totally hijack this thread so I'm going to start my own asking for help because I have a bunch of sh*t that was drawing power while the key is off/door closed etc.

Please let us (me) know how this goes for you and what you found was the problem when you get it sorted out.
Good luck :)

EDIT:I havent heard any noise from my alternator, but I haven't checked for any noise from there either. I have checked my starter for a power draw because I suspected that also, but it's fine....looks like a new starter (just bought the truck about 2 months ago. How loud is the buzzing sound at the alternator?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Na man it's fine maybe we can help each other get the problems fixed... I did the same thing with the test light and pulled every fuse, relay in the truck and it never dimmed or went out it won't Bc some things pull a little power all the time I think... The buzzing is very noticeable if you get close and listen for it.. Check your ground wire going from the negative cable on the passenger side battery where it connects to the block for acid build up, check to make sure your hood light is going off when u shut the hood
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also I havnt checked the starter for draw yet ill do that tomorrow
 

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Well...i went looking for, or shall I say, listening for the buzzing sound from the alternator and NADDA. Started the beast up today and let it run for a bit to warm up. I then thought I would test my alternator, so I disconnected the wires from the alt. while it was running and the thing it throwing out >17 volts. yet when I reconnected it and tested at the battery terminals, I got slightly different readings at each battery. Right(passenger) side battery had 13.98V and the left (driver) side battery read 14.2V.

As for the testlight test, the first thing I did when I was doing the test was I unplugged the light under the hood. 2nd thing was to disconnect both battery NEG. terminals. 3rd (not sure if it made any difference or not) one guy mentioned holding the Neg connected long enough to make sure the electronics shut down (20-30 seconds) otherwise the test light stays bright the whole time. I noticed the light went out when I pulled fuse #2, Instrument cluster. There are 2 sepereate fuses for the instrument cluster, mine still works properly (almost) with this 10A fuse out. I say almost because it works and functions fine when the truck is running, but whenI shut it off, my trip odometer resets to 0.0, but the reg. odo and engine hour meter still keep adding up. The only other difference I notice now is that when I turn the truck off, the radio doesn`t stay on and I cant use the windows like they used to before until the door was opened.

I thought thatthis was all, but I still have a drain on my batteries when it off. So I re-tested (with the test light) again and this time there was a few things taking power. First fuse that dimmed the light was fuse #19 which powers the Vehicle Security Module and Four Wheel Drive Control Module. Now I have to find out which fo those 2 modules is the one draining power. The other one drawing power is the square pink 30A fuse top right corner, fuse #101 - Trailer Electronic Brake Control Controller. I haven't been able to find any more, but I know there is still some draw because whenI first touch the test light, it comes on and then fades within a couple seconds.

Sorry for the hugely wordy response. I just wanted to cover the steps I followed incase it by slim chance there was anything that might help you a little. This is starting to bug me that I can't find the gremlins that are in my wiring. Only fuse box I haven't dug into yet was the one behind the glovebox. I was going to do that today but had to help my 12yr old with her math homework.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think your voltage when reconnecting the batteries is right so you should be fine there... Thanks for the info on the fuses you pulled.. When I did my test light check it never dimmed one time no matter which fuse/relay I pulled but I believe it was Bc my power plug that runs to my switch was still pulling power Bc the voltage regulator is bad in the alternator. I took it today to have it checked and rebuilt and sure enough the regulator was sticking so that was the buzzing sound right there not sure if its completely fixed ill see when i put the alternator back on hopefully tomorrow... Did you check that ground wire off the passenger side battery? It sounds like you have a bad ground with all the things drawing power and dimming that light
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If I'm not mistaken isn't there supposed to be a small current coming from the batteries for the computer memory and stuff?
 

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Thanks for the idea...I'll check the grounds today (if I get a chance). I do expect some draw for memory...but IDK how much of a draw should there be. I mean, the PCM only draws @ about 0.5V (I think). I went and used my multi-meter in place of the testlight and found that it's reading about +/-11V now that I have pulled all those fuses I mentioned earlier, where as before, it was drawing 13. I don't know if this is any way of testing anything, but when it reads voltage, that means that there's still a draw, wouldn't it? When I have both the multi meter and testlight, like I said before, the testlight comes on for a second and fades out, the multimeter drops to around 1.2V as the light fades out then climbs again after I take the test light off again.

Im no electrician, but I think I get the basics (at least) of DC and about the same for residential AC. So I'm not sure if testing with the multimeter this way is telling me anything or throwing me off more....but there's no mistaking that my batteries lose their poop the longer they sit in the truck when it's off. I pulled them and let them sit for a couple days after I charged them. they leveled out to 12.9V about 20-30 minutes after I charged them and read the same 2 days later and when I put them back in the truck, I don't recall ever hearing the starter come to life like that before...so I'm sure its not the batteries.
 

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I had the same problem a year ago. Truck would start good one minute, click click click, the next minute. Tested everything multiple times. This went on for 2 months. It got so bad that the only way i could make sure the truck would start in the morning was to put it on trickle charge every night and carry a jump pack with me. Super frustrating. Batteries tested fine alternator tested good. Everything would test good. I had interstate batteries that were not even a year old. So i decided to start throwing money at it. Even though it tested good I replaced the alternator. Nope didn't work. So replaced the starter(a buddy of mine was convinced that was it). Nope not it. I got talking to the interstate guy and he said bring it over. He took the batteries out of my truck and checked them. Checked good. Now keep in mind I have load tested these batteries several times, even checking the cells looking for a bad cell. Nothing. Problem went on for another month. Went back to interstate pulled batteries out again both were BAD. What the hell. Guy said there was probably something that broke loose inside the batteries causing them to short out. Very frustrating. Not sure if it will but hope this helps.


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