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Discussion Starter #1
Hi , I am new in this, so really need some help , have a f 250 , 2006 V8
diesel engine 6.0 liter , mecanical transmission, truck has 110,000 miles, 2 months ago had to change the egr. valve, as noticed that the water in the reserver had gone several times, changed the head gasket too, now after 2 months started to notice that the truck makes some white smoke and the smell of the smoke is very strung, checked the oil engine , and is perfect , wather in the reserver is OK, I have drove 7000 miles after the repair of the EGR. PLEASE REALLY NEED SOME GOOD HELP ON WHAT TO CHECK.
Will appreciate your prompt response , Thank you .
::please::dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi any help on the issue above???
Really would appreciate some information about this from good experienced people.
Would really appreciate.
 

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Was there water in the bottom of the egr valve? If there was then your egr cooler is ****. I take it you didn't do the egr delete.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have not revised the EGR valve now, when had the problem before, we placed a new EGR valve, Do I need to check the water or cooler reservor?????
If it is down, do I need to see if the egr cooler is broken ??? correct??
Please any of your information will really be appreciate... Thank you .
 

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the egr valve and egr cooler are totally different. sounds like your EGR COOLER is toast.
 

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I'm not quite sure exactly what you're saying. Remove the EGR valve and see if there is water/coolant in there.
When does it have the white smoke? Just on startup? acceleration? all the time?
Do you have a coolant filter? What coolant do you have? Has the oil cooler been replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
THANKS FOR BOTH REPLY. I JUST REVISED THE RESERVOR OF THE COOLANT AND THE LEVEL IS OK.
THE WHITE SMOKE IS WHEN I START THE TRUCK, DURING SOME ACCELERATION AND COMPRESSION TOO, THE TRUCK IS NOT AUTOMATIC TANSMISSION, ON IDLING IT IS A LITTLE BIT OF WHITE SMOKE, WHEN ACCELERATION THERE IS .
NO COOLANT FILETER.
DO NOT THINK THAT THE OIL COOLER HAS REPLACED.
APPRECIATE YOUR FEED BACK,
THANK YOU.
 

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I wonder if he is using google translator?
Park your truck on a decline overnight. (Nose of the truck lower than the rear)
In the morning, remove the EGR valve.
Check the bottom of the hole where the egr valve was installed with a flashlight.
If you see evidence of moisture (small puddle or even just a few drop of visible liquid), you EGR cooler needs to be replaced. Your oil cooler will also need to be replaced. The egr cooler failure is a symptom of a bad oil cooler.
The coolant supply to the egr cooler is from the oil cooler. If the coolant stream is compromised by plugged up coolant passages in the oil cooler, the egr cooler will overheat and fail....and will leak coolant into the intake manifold. When the EGR valve opens, your engine is drinking the coolant, causing the white smoke.
DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK until you repair it. If you do so, you could pop your headgaskets ($$$$).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the detailed explanation,
One more question, if the are problems with the oil egr cooler and the oil cooler, should I notice a decrease of the level in the cooling reservor??? Please advise.
2 months ago we did changed the EGR valve and placed a new one and did changed the head gaskets, we did not changed the oil cooler radiator and the EGR cooler.
Waiting on your information.
Thank you.
 

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This is going to be a long post...

Don't confuse the EGR VALVE with the EGR COOLER. The valve opens and closes to regulate the exhaust gases that are allowed to re-enter the engine (for pollution control purposes). The EGR cooler does as its name implies, it cools the exhaust gases before they are sent back in to the engine.

2 months ago would have been the optimal time to address the oil cooler/egr cooler failures, when you had it all apart. The oil cooler plugging could very well be the reason your head gaskets popped in the first place.

Here is what I would do in your situation:
First: Stop driving the truck, unless you want to redo your head gaskets again.

Purchase a new oil cooler and egr cooler (if you so choose or need to keep your egr system intact).

Click HERE and download a copy of "nylyons' reverse flushing technique"
Read over what it takes to properly flush the cooling system of a 6.0, but disregard any and all mention of reverse flushing. The reverse flush will not help you in your situation whatsoever. This step will remove all the junk that clogged your existing oil cooler previous to undertaking your repair. This styke of flush will not be done by any garage or mechanic out there. The reason is simple. The time involved would require that you pay him for 8-10 hours to flush your cooling system. You would get the bill and faint, and he has much better things to do than to flush your engine/cooling system.

You will need to do a few things to prepare your engine to perform the flush as safe as possible. (By the way, the flushing will take you the better part of a full day to accomplish).
The first is to perform a mod that will raise the idle speed of your engine to 1200RPM so that the chemicals you need to use can circulate throughout the cooling system/engine.
Luckily you have a 2006 and this modification is exceptionally easy to do (someone will let us know whether or not this works on a manual transmission, as I am not sure of that).
Tucked up right above the emergency brake pedal is a bundle of wires that have black shrinkwrap on the ends of them. In that bundle, find the purple wire with a green stripe. All you have to do is get 12 volts (switched/fused at 5-10 amps) to that wire.
There are safety locks that must be in place for the idle to jump to 1200 RPM. Those are:
The emergency brake is on
The regular brake is not applied
The transmission is in Park..for auto trans models. I am hoping that the standard trans being in neutral would also work. If anyone reads this and has a standard trans that has the high-idle mod done, please post what had to be done if anything is different.

The second thing that you have to do to be able to run the engine for the flush is to prevent the leaking coolant from entering the engine. There are a couple ways to do this. One is to remove the EGR valve and verify that it is closed. Reinstall the egr valve back in to the intake manifold and do not connect it electrically...and pray that it will be ok.

Warning: DO NOT think that you can drive the truck with the egr valve unplugged electrically and everything will be ok. It won't be. The boost pressures from the turbo can force the valve open. With the engine running in this manner, a large amount of coolant can be waiting behind the valve, and if the turbo forces the valve open, your looking at yet another set of head gaskets. Don't do it.

If you saved your old egr valve, tack weld it shut and install that back in to the intake.

Again, don't think you can drive the truck around much with the egr valve welded shut. There are other ways that a leaking egr cooler can have a detrimental effect without going past the valve. The leaking coolant still has to go somewhere, and that somewhere is out the tailpipe. Before it can exit the tailpipe, it goes through your turbo. The soot in there, along with coolant can make the unison ring (that controls the vanes that make boost) stick, causing an underboost or an overboost condition.
If you have a Catalytic converter under your truck, coolant going through that can cause it to plug up prematurely also.

Once you get all the above done, its time to replace the oil cooler and egr coolers.
Click HERE to go to a "sticky" on this forum that has the pdf files you need to do this, as well as some parts that you should consider updating while they are already off the truck and in your hand. It also has some tips/tricks posted as well.

Good luck and happy wrenching
 

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Well, I forgot something..

This is the time to get rid of a huge contributor to your problems. That is the Ford Gold coolant. The coolant need to be maintained more often than you could imagine. It needs to have the coolant strength checked and the Nitrite level checked every 15,000 miles.
More detailed info about what it takes to maintain the Ford gold is posted HERE.
What most everyone here would recommend running in place of the Ford Gold is an ELC coolant that meets the CAT EC-1 spec. That link above shows one of them. There are a few others out there. Info about that coolant is all over this forum......
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you very much for the time and the explanation, I do not leave in USA , have already ordered the parts and a customer is coming next week to visit us and will bring them down.
I definitely made a big mistake not to change the eg. cooler and the oil cooler, I have already parked my truck , tomorrow morning will start desassembling the egr valve to check for some water or moisture.
Again appreciate very much for your detailed explanation.
Have a grate day.
 

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i parked my truck on a slight hill over night pulled the high ram and their is oil in it what can it be? i pulled out the egr valve and cleaned it. can the egr o-rings cause the smoke
 

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By "high ram" I will assume that you mean the EGR valve???
If so, that probably is not oil, though it may have that consistency. It is likely a mixture of coolant and soot. That means that your egr cooler and oil cooler need to be replaced...after flushing the cooling system of contaminants.
There are many many threads on this forum that describe just what a cooling system flush should be. There is also a link to a document in my signature line that is one of the best. Click on "nylyons' reverse flushing technique" and review that.
Keep in mind that you should just ignore any mention of reverse flushing your oil cooler in the document because that process will NOT help you now. Just flush the cooling system as outlined.
 

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How much white smoke are we talking about??? It gets cold here at night (like single digits) and a little white-ish/grey-ish smoke comes out right when I first start the truck. But maybe for like 3-4 seconds, and no smoke driving around. This should be nothing to worry about right? People seem to be freaking out about ANY white smoke but does ANY mean I need to start replacing parts before I have a notorious HG job on my hands?
 

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How much white smoke are we talking about??? It gets cold here at night (like single digits) and a little white-ish/grey-ish smoke comes out right when I first start the truck. But maybe for like 3-4 seconds, and no smoke driving around. This should be nothing to worry about right? People seem to be freaking out about ANY white smoke but does ANY mean I need to start replacing parts before I have a notorious HG job on my hands?
Its normal to see white/grayish smoke on start up its just un-burnt fuel. If you keep getting constant white smoke at idle and on acceleration good change the egr cooler went out. But I would recommend doing a coolant pressure test it will help you figure out if you have a egr cooler or head gasket failure, there's tons of how to videos on youtube.
 
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