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Discussion Starter #1
So yesterday on a 120 mile trip my truck started overheating. I’m used to eot temps going up to 230-240. When this happens I clean the ipr coolant filter and everything’s fine for a week or so then I have to clean it again. ie max 200 eot until it needs another cleaning

but yesterday my ect and eot temps got to 240 andafter about 15 minutes they drop down to 200. 10-15 minutes late back up to 240s for both. It happened 5 or 6 times andi always heard a whirring noise when I had high temps. The check gauge light came on once when it got above 240 and I turned the truck off while coasting, turned it back on and itnever came back on again

I have a video of the noise but I dunno how to post vids
What do y’all think?
do water pumps make noise when they bad? Thermostat? One guy I asked said cracked heads.....I’d be upset if that’s it
 

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So yesterday on a 120 mile trip my truck started overheating. I’m used to eot temps going up to 230-240. When this happens I clean the ipr coolant filter and everything’s fine for a week or so then I have to clean it again. ie max 200 eot until it needs another cleaning

but yesterday my ect and eot temps got to 240 andafter about 15 minutes they drop down to 200. 10-15 minutes late back up to 240s for both. It happened 5 or 6 times andi always heard a whirring noise when I had high temps. The check gauge light came on once when it got above 240 and I turned the truck off while coasting, turned it back on and itnever came back on again

I have a video of the noise but I dunno how to post vids
What do y’all think?
do water pumps make noise when they bad? Thermostat? One guy I asked said cracked heads.....I’d be upset if that’s it
My guess is you are hearing the fan. At that temp it should be screaming. The real question is why are your coolant and oil temps getting that high. Are you towing, long grades? Are both EOT and ECT going to the 240s? By the post I'm not 100% sure and don't want to assume.

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Discussion Starter #3
I don’t recall hearing this whirring before
Not towing, empty bed
Flat Michigan ground 85+ degrees I believe
eot and ect are hitting 240
 

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I don’t recall hearing this whirring before
Not towing, empty bed
Flat Michigan ground 85+ degrees I believe
eot and ect are hitting 240
Sounds like a possible bad thermostat. If that doesn't fix it I would then suspect the water pump. You don't have any signs of water leaking from the pump do you?

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Discussion Starter #5
Truck leaks oil..... I don’t see any leaking coolant. How can I check thermostat and water pump to see if they are operating correctly?
 

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Truck leaks oil..... I don’t see any leaking coolant. How can I check thermostat and water pump to see if they are operating correctly?
The only way I know is to pull the thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens fully. For the price if I pull it im going to replace it even if it opens properly in the water. Then you could either pull the pump and check the fins and bearing for play or see if replacing the thermostat brings the temps down. If it does then great if not move to the water pump. Someone else my have a better way but that's how I would proceed.

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Is the water pump in the elbow on the front of the block? Is it a pita to get out?

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Discussion Starter #9
I just saw a dieseltechron video on youthtube. Looks pretty easy, might do a new tensioner pulley while I’m balls deep in the 6literbeater
 

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short answer...yes its a bit of a pita.
change out your t stat and that might fix it if you are only hearing the whirring sound at 240 i might suspect you fan clutch is going also...
IF just the t stat doesnt clear it up i would swp out the fan clutch and water pump if it were me...so sense gong that deep twice BPD is of course the best water pump out there... but i went with the number 2 contender from diesel site just because i didnt have the cash to go with a bpd ...so depends where you are at
diesel site lifetime water pump is a great option
i personally wouldn't go stock again because i am trying to reduce the number of chitty plastic parts on my truck. but they tend to be good for at least 150k so...up to you, avoid part store stuf for the most part
watch out for the fan clutch wires and check them over while you do the t stat that combo of fixing any worn wires and a addressing them as needed might fix ya up without the deep dive unless you are just motivated to do it once and have the peace of mind of knowing the right pump is in there.
tried to post this a while ago but my computer crashed instead...
dtr's video is good as always its not terrible but have some cheater bars at the ready i fought like hell to bust mine lose. easy if you dont have to fight the thing
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I see the point in swapping th t stat but I’m curious what you think about the whirring. If a fan clutch goes wouldn’t it just go? Not be all back and forth about it?
 

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california deplorable
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fan clutch goes in about 6 stages.
its a weird system from what i know of it
so it could kick in full at really high temps but not run like it should at lower temps and or speeds...
that said i am no guru and its really hard to diagnose something from someones description without hearing and or seeing it.
but my best guess is new oil cooler (if that one is unable to be backflushed out any further?) and if i remember what you said earlier right... new t stat, new lifetime water pump and i wouldnt be too worried about it.
i just did all that on mine with new silicone hoses and it seems to run really nice
of course i am still rebuilding the axles so its not on the road but all i need now are lugnuts and they should be in in the morning and i can put on the new brakes and full flush the brakes and i should be good to go.

768662
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It got a ipr oil cooler relocation in December. Also did the full flow coolant flush too. So I don’t think the cooler would be bad but then again.....
 

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The electric fan clutch is a vistronic drive clutch, infinitely variable
the PCM uses the temperature sensors and load on the engine to figure how fast to command the clutch
Your monitor - you do have a monitor, right? - should be able to give fan RPM readout
if the clutch oil level is low or the bearing is loose, then the speeds may not be able to be achieved - time for a replacement
testing the T-stat is a good idea, but I would just replace it -- the T-stat sets the lower operating temperature
the PCM and sensors set the running operating temperatures

Why are you needing to clean the cooler filter weekly, that is waay too often
unless the coolant is junk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The coolant is 50/50 from Autozone. What should I be using? I had 230 ect and 190 eot a while back and I talked to Vince at ipr about it and he told me to clean it and that I would have to do that a few more times until I get all the crap out of the system.
 

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Post your vid to youtube and post the link here, so we can hear the noise @6literbeater
 

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Discussion Starter #19
im a product of 1994 and I just created a youthtube account only because I drive a lemon..... a very nice looking lemon. And I’m not kidding, I get compliments even when Im stranded on the side of the road.

 

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Ayup, sounds like the fan -- was the engine hot in the vid?

That is the reason to monitor engine temps and fan rpm
need to know if the PCM thinks the fan should be on or there is another problem
 
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