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Hi All,

I have a 2003 F350 with only 80,000 miles on it. I'm changing the heads as they rusted through, see my other post for info on that. Anyway, the engine is out for the head replacement, which makes a number of things easier to do. I'm cleaning the rust off the frame, changing the oil pan, fuel lines, Power steering hoses Trans coolant lines, oil cooler all horribly rusty. My goal is to keep this truck long term, so I'm looking to replace anything now that is likely to fail. While my primary goal is long term reliability, I'm open to some performance mods, keeping in mind this is a towing working truck, not a hot rod race truck. For instance, there are all of those electronic sensors ICP, Crank angle, ebp, etc.. They are all probably 16 years old, should I just replace them all?

Your thoughts? I don't want to waste money, but I don't want to break down on vacation while towing my RV trailer either.

Thanks
 

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Premium Member
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2,390 Posts
Hi All,



I have a 2003 F350 with only 80,000 miles on it. I'm changing the heads as they rusted through, see my other post for info on that. Anyway, the engine is out for the head replacement, which makes a number of things easier to do. I'm cleaning the rust off the frame, changing the oil pan, fuel lines, Power steering hoses Trans coolant lines, oil cooler all horribly rusty. My goal is to keep this truck long term, so I'm looking to replace anything now that is likely to fail. While my primary goal is long term reliability, I'm open to some performance mods, keeping in mind this is a towing working truck, not a hot rod race truck. For instance, there are all of those electronic sensors ICP, Crank angle, ebp, etc.. They are all probably 16 years old, should I just replace them all?



Your thoughts? I don't want to waste money, but I don't want to break down on vacation while towing my RV trailer either.



Thanks


I replace chit ain’t even broken... having said that, replace all

filters
sensors (major icp, ipr, cps)
Up pipes
Fuel line on passenger rear head (its a sob)
Pedesestal delete
All Cac boots
Rebuild turbo
Reseal hpop
Updated valve cover gaskets
Reseal fuel bowl
Glow plugs
New injector o-rings
Drain block/rad. Flush and fill with ELC red rad fluid

Check and clean or replace ebps and tube...




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Not sure if its manual or auto....
Auto, do a Valve body and torque convertor
Manual, Rear Main, Clutch

If you have a manual and the rear main goes you're gonna need a clutch to
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not sure if its manual or auto....
Auto, do a Valve body and torque convertor
Manual, Rear Main, Clutch

If you have a manual and the rear main goes you're gonna need a clutch to
I have an Auto.

For valve body, do you mean shift improver kit?
Why do you recommend a Torque Converter? Are these problematic?

Thanks!
 

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I understand your logic...while it's out...
But he only has 80,000 miles on it

OP, you can do what I did and get a winter beater and park the super duty while the salt is on the roads. Makes you love your truck all the more when spring rolls around.

Oh and since it's an automatic get a 6.0 transmission cooler. And lots of POR15 or Chassis Saver. I have experience with the POR15 (GOOD STUFF, if you follow the directions) and I've heard good reviews about the Chassis Saver. Here's a review if you're interested.
https://4wdlife.com/chassis-saver-vs-por-15
 
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