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Discussion Starter #61
As it stands now provided there aren't any hiccups this job should end in late November / early December and the next one will start early to mid January. Not holding my breath on the next one, but either way I might throw the truck in the shop to get bullet proofed at the end of this job. I always hear a mix of actual BPD parts and genuin OEM Ford pieces, so what is the "ideal bullet proof". Right now as is the truck makes more than enough power so I'll probably never go crazy and get a bigger turbo / injectors, etc. I just want piece of mind. When I go to a shop and tell them I want my truck bullet proofed, what list of parts should be going on my truck? Ideally I'll be buying them so I know what goes on the truck but as of now the only parts I know for sure are OEM Ford head gaskets and ARP head studs. I hear a mix of OEM and BPD oil cooler, but I don't know what exactly to get.
 

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The common failure points of a 6.0 are head gaskets, EGR cooler, water pump, oil cooler, and FICM.
BPD covers the EGR, water pump, oil cooler and FICM.
I'd say if you go with o-ringed heads and ARP's, throw a metal impeller water pump in, delete or BPD EGR cooler, watch your FICM voltage and oil temps you'll be good for years. With normal cooling system maintenance the OEM oil cooler is fine as long as you get the gold crap out before the silicates gum it up. If you really need another bullet proof part you could do a relocate.
 
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I've been thinking about buying my brothers 2013 Mustang, but the problem with all the cars I like is they don't do so good on fuel so in buying it all I'd be doing is keeping miles off my truck. Although the 2011+ Kia Optima's look good and get good gas mileage but I haven't heard great things about Kia.

If I head in that direction I'd still have to keep the price below $7500 which should be doable, it's just a matter of how much more expensive will me insurance be.





Cold in my area is like 20 lol. As far as quiet, I'm still young and I don't mind loud which is why I straight piped my 6.0. If I get a 6.7 it'd probably get deleted and straight piped within a year. For reliability, what makes a stock 6.7 (or just deleted 6.7) more reliable than a 6.0? Not trying to start a crap storm here, just wanting to know.
I don't know where you heard that from, but mine has been a great car. I have a 2013 Kia Optima Hybrid (bought used) and my wife has a 2015 Hyundai Sonata (bought new), both with the 2.4 liters. That motor won't win many races, but it gets great gas mileage (the 2015 Sonata gets about the same mileage as my hybrid). Nothing but filters, tires and oil changes for either car. Both now have over 120k on them. The engine bay of my wife's 2015 Sonata is so open you could almost hug the engine and reach your hands at the bottom. New I think they both have a 10 year 100k powertrain warranty.
 

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As it stands now provided there aren't any hiccups this job should end in late November / early December and the next one will start early to mid January. Not holding my breath on the next one, but either way I might throw the truck in the shop to get bullet proofed at the end of this job. I always hear a mix of actual BPD parts and genuin OEM Ford pieces, so what is the "ideal bullet proof". Right now as is the truck makes more than enough power so I'll probably never go crazy and get a bigger turbo / injectors, etc. I just want piece of mind. When I go to a shop and tell them I want my truck bullet proofed, what list of parts should be going on my truck? Ideally I'll be buying them so I know what goes on the truck but as of now the only parts I know for sure are OEM Ford head gaskets and ARP head studs. I hear a mix of OEM and BPD oil cooler, but I don't know what exactly to get.
I put 50k on a 2007 6.0 with an EGR delete, street tune, straight pipe exaust, s n b intake, stock headbolts, oil cooler, and ficm. Got 19mpg on 35 Toyo m/ts

I was extremely meticulate about maint. T6 and MC filters every 5k. Fuel filters (MC or raycor) every 10k. Flushed the Ford gold coolant and ran CAT ec1 coolant.

Archoil helps with the oil too.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
I don't know where you heard that from, but mine has been a great car. I have a 2013 Kia Optima Hybrid (bought used) and my wife has a 2015 Hyundai Sonata (bought new), both with the 2.4 liters. That motor won't win many races, but it gets great gas mileage (the 2015 Sonata gets about the same mileage as my hybrid). Nothing but filters, tires and oil changes for either car. Both now have over 120k on them. The engine bay of my wife's 2015 Sonata is so open you could almost hug the engine and reach your hands at the bottom. New I think they both have a 10 year 100k powertrain warranty.
I do like that warranty and I've thought about that a lot lol. We rent a lot of cars and I rented a Kia optima with less than 10k miles and the engine blew. Could be lack of maintenance from the renting place but my buddy also had a Kia Soul that blew up fairly fast too. I never hear any good things about Kia but come to think of it when we talk about cars it's always Camaro's and Mustangs, not "yeah bro I averaged 35 MPG in my Kia".

I put 50k on a 2007 6.0 with an EGR delete, street tune, straight pipe exaust, s n b intake, stock headbolts, oil cooler, and ficm. Got 19mpg on 35 Toyo m/ts

I was extremely meticulate about maint. T6 and MC filters every 5k. Fuel filters (MC or raycor) every 10k. Flushed the Ford gold coolant and ran CAT ec1 coolant.

Archoil helps with the oil too.
I put 40k on my '06, all stock minus blue spring, 7.3 fan clutch, and tune. Currently I'm averaging 14.9 according to the dash and before I was getting 16.5. I also have 2 other guys in the truck and the AC on now but even with all the hypermileing I don't see how it's possible to get 19 MPG consistently unless you're doing 55 MPH on a down hill grade. Even my trip to the redwoods where it was mostly 60 MPH at night we averaged just shy of 17. That was with cruise control set, 70 PSI in the tires and trying to keep it below 2k RPM.
 
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I don't remember the tire pressure I was running in the 35x12.5r17 but with the EGR delete, exhaust, and tuning g, I got 19 on the highway at 65ish. No cruise it was an XL so just a steady food. Pretty flat out here too. My buddy that bought it gets 19 hwy too.
 

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I do like that warranty and I've thought about that a lot lol. We rent a lot of cars and I rented a Kia optima with less than 10k miles and the engine blew. Could be lack of maintenance from the renting place but my buddy also had a Kia Soul that blew up fairly fast too. I never hear any good things about Kia but come to think of it when we talk about cars it's always Camaro's and Mustangs, not "yeah bro I averaged 35 MPG in my Kia".



I put 40k on my '06, all stock minus blue spring, 7.3 fan clutch, and tune. Currently I'm averaging 14.9 according to the dash and before I was getting 16.5. I also have 2 other guys in the truck and the AC on now but even with all the hypermileing I don't see how it's possible to get 19 MPG consistently unless you're doing 55 MPH on a down hill grade. Even my trip to the redwoods where it was mostly 60 MPH at night we averaged just shy of 17. That was with cruise control set, 70 PSI in the tires and trying to keep it below 2k RPM.
The 7.3 fan clutch cost a little bit in mpg's, the best my truck has ever done since I bought it was 17 1/2 mpg hand calculated, all highway coming back from Indy on I70 which is pretty flat the whole way, 75mph with cruise control. I've hand calculated my mileage for 2 years since I got the truck and just at a glance, if I totaled all the miles and all the fuel it would prolly come in around 15 mpg average. Pulling the stock trailer gets around 11-12 and general all around is 15ish. Never could figure how some guys claim 20 mpg's in these things.
 
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Discussion Starter #68
I knew the 7.3 fan clutch would cost me in fuel economy, but I figured that was better than costing me in overheating the engine this summer lol. Last summer was HELL now it's a breeze.
 
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2011 Ford Superduty fully loaded lariat 6.7 with 215k miles and running stronger then ever with a 8" lift and 37s. I just replaced my front wheel hubs. Most reliable truck I've ever owned and will not sell it or trade it in.
 

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Forgot to post my details ........

2006 F250 6.0L 205k miles and most reliable truck I have ever owned (even more so than the 7.3L that I own that is almost at 300k miles). My 6.9L used oil from the day I got it until I got rid of it at 250k when the oil pressure would drop to near 0 at an idle.
 
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