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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, I've been researching (legal) reliability upgrades for my 2012 F250. I'm wondering how critical these upgrades are. Please number them from highest to lowest priority, in your view:
What am I missing?

Sources:
 

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2011 F350 KR SRW Long Bed that identifies as a 1972 F100
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Delete the EGR and DPF.


😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣

On a serious note… the only thing on that whole list I would consider is the DPK and the cold side pipe. But I’d wait till the new S&S DCR pump is released in a couple months rather than doing the DPK or new CP4.2.

The rest of that stuff can be done but won’t really help with longevity really.
 

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Cold side pipe first if you tow anything.
then use fuel additive every time you fill it up

I did both the DPK and an auxiliary fuel/water filter. If it ever fails I’ll do the S&S DCR pump

2012 will already have a metal pan.

transmission is designed to run hot vs previous generations. Ignore that stuff


wait until it fails to fix the other listed issues. BPD makes an EGR upgrade insert. Or you can just clean it out with soap and water
leveling kit is just personal aesthetics choice. I like the Fox brand shocks but Bilstein is good too.
I’m nearly 340K stock
I’ve had two EGT sensors go bad, but it will no longer leave you shut down. I carry a spare just in case supply’s an issue at time
of need. They’re relatively cheap.
 

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Cold side pipe,and fuel add every tank as stated. If you have the plastic oil pan, (pretty sure your 12 does not) then the metal pan is worth the time and effort.
The rest of the stuff, I don't see a real demand to increase reliability or longevity. My BIL's 2011 has 110k on it now with regular oil and filter changes, fuel filters, and trans, transfer case, and diff fluid changes every 50k. It just keeps on towing.
 

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Cold side pipe,and fuel add every tank as stated. If you have the plastic oil pan, (pretty sure your 12 does not) then the metal pan is worth the time and effort.
The rest of the stuff, I don't see a real demand to increase reliability or longevity. My BIL's 2011 has 110k on it now with regular oil and filter changes, fuel filters, and trans, transfer case, and diff fluid changes every 50k. It just keeps on towing.
Yes you MUST keep the filters and oil changed often! That is probably the best way to ensure longevity for your diesel engine.
 

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2011 F350 KR SRW Long Bed that identifies as a 1972 F100
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Cold side pipe,and fuel add every tank as stated. If you have the plastic oil pan, (pretty sure your 12 does not) then the metal pan is worth the time and effort.
The rest of the stuff, I don't see a real demand to increase reliability or longevity. My BIL's 2011 has 110k on it now with regular oil and filter changes, fuel filters, and trans, transfer case, and diff fluid changes every 50k. It just keeps on towing.
I keep hearing bad things about the plastic oil pan but my 2011 has the plastic pan and it’s still chugging along 13 years later without a single leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cold side pipe first if you tow anything.
then use fuel additive every time you fill it up

I did both the DPK and an auxiliary fuel/water filter. If it ever fails I’ll do the S&S DCR pump

2012 will already have a metal pan.

transmission is designed to run hot vs previous generations. Ignore that stuff


wait until it fails to fix the other listed issues. BPD makes an EGR upgrade insert. Or you can just clean it out with soap and water
leveling kit is just personal aesthetics choice. I like the Fox brand shocks but Bilstein is good too.
I’m nearly 340K stock
I’ve had two EGT sensors go bad, but it will no longer leave you shut down. I carry a spare just in case supply’s an issue at time
of need. They’re relatively cheap.
Do you have a link to the auxiliary fuel/water filter, or was it a DIY?
 

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Do you have a link to the auxiliary fuel/water filter, or was it a DIY?
DIY
 

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Every oil change that this truck has had outside of the factory oil was done by me. Is it shops that break them? Where to they break at?
I think the drain plug strips out.
 

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2011 F350 KR SRW Long Bed that identifies as a 1972 F100
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Does it matter whose cold side pipe you go with? SPE is out of stock at the moment.
I’ve been running an H&S cold side pipe with their bladeless throttle body for 100,000 miles now and it’s still in great condition.



If you don’t want to run a tune, you can just buy the cold side pipe and not worry about using the bladeless throttle body.
 

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You essentially just want to get ride of the plastic one that will blow out.
 
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