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Discussion Starter #1
so i've got a pair of 16x8 steel wheels that are coming off to make room for 19.5s. i got the steel wheels from tirerack and they came with 14x2.0 wheel nuts (conical types). i rotated them front to back periodically and they've come off when i needed to work on the truck. the nuts that came from the tirerack never spun on and off like the OEM nuts. they all (all 32) seem to have more resistance to threading. they certainly are not cross threaded in the sense that i think about crossthreading... they do go on just not by hand after i get the thread started. ratchet at a minimum but i'm not honking on it with a breaker bar and they always come off just not spinning off with ease.

am i on crazy pills here? do everyone's wheel nuts (factory or aftermarket) spin right on and off?

i'll post a pic of the stud tomorrow night for y'alls evaluation.
 

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they certainly are not cross threaded in the sense that i think about crossthreading... they do go on just not by hand after i get the thread started. ratchet at a minimum but i'm not honking on it with a breaker bar and they always come off just not spinning off with ease.
Do the threads look like they are galling up at all? Have you tried to lubricate them to see if that changes anything(clean them off before re-install of course)? I had a similar issue on my first 2002 F-250 with the OEM nuts and cleaning them with a wire brush and then a nylon brush with brake cleaner seemed to make them go on a little easier.

But, if they are aftermarket the machining process used may have put the thread specs on the smaller size of the tolerance thus making it tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i guess they kinda of look like they are galling... mostly it looks like the top of the thread is being blunted off. i put all new lugs on (dorman conical types from summit) and they behaved the same way. i also bought a 14x2.0 tap and die and chased all the original lug nuts. everyone had some level of thread deformity. new lugs went on (albeit not easily) and torqued down okay.
 

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i put all new lugs on (dorman conical types from summit) and they behaved the same way. i also bought a 14x2.0 tap and die and chased all the original lug nuts. everyone had some level of thread deformity.
I can't remember which are which, but are these the fine thread or the course thread lugnuts that you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The studs and nuts are 14mm x 2.0 rather than the finer 14 x 1.5 tht I believe Ford went to for 2003...
 

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The studs and nuts are 14mm x 2.0 rather than the finer 14 x 1.5 tht I believe Ford went to for 2003...
Hate to say it but sounds like the Dorman brand wheel nuts fudged the threads. 99% of Dorman products are total junk. I've had more issues develop from people using dorman brand parts then the issue that caused them to replace it. Dorman brand UVCH's have had a reputation for lighting on fire in the 7.3ls, I went through three dorman brand vac pumps when I was new and didn't understand the lack of quality in the brands, and the story goes on.

Just hope this helps. Im betting if you buy a different brand of wheel nuts they may chase the threads and come on/off easier. But dorman is just so risky these days and they're not even super cheap either now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
but the studs seem to be fudged up before i eve got the dorman nuts on... here's the full time line. :)

- stock 16x7 alloys and flanged faced nuts
- black hawk 16x8 steels and tirerack-provided conical closed end nuts (this is when I first noticed difficulty)
- vision 19.5x7.5 and dorman conical closed end nuts (current setup)
 

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but the studs seem to be fudged up before i eve got the dorman nuts on... here's the full time line. :)

- stock 16x7 alloys and flanged faced nuts
- black hawk 16x8 steels and tirerack-provided conical closed end nuts (this is when I first noticed difficulty)
- vision 19.5x7.5 and dorman conical closed end nuts (current setup)
Its very possible the tirerack provided nuts were the wrong thread type (fine vs coarse) I would go to an auto store and see if they'll let you look at the studs and bring your wheel nuts with you. Im betting the wheel studs and wheel nuts will need to be replaced. It looks like you use a truck camper and you do not want to mess with stripped wheel studs with the weight of the truck alone and the camper.
 
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