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So my mother has been talking about getting a Shelby mustang for a while now. The other night she called me and sent me pictures of her brand new 2012 Shelby GT500 SVT. Its pushing 550 from the engine. When she came into town, she took me for a ride in it and showed me the works. We were at a stoplight, and a blacked out 6.4 pulled up next to us. He was revvin up a bit so when the light turned green they both hit it. Of course my mothers car left him in the dust. I told her that one day she was going to mess with the wrong diesel truck, and she is yet to believe me.

So what im asking is, how am i going to get my old 2000 7.3 to take her. (mods in sig)

I know this very far fetched and will take a lot of time, but what will i need to do to beat her?
 

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how much money do you have?
 

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550 crank is roughly 440 rwhp. in order to beat her you'll need more hp and more traction. probably 600+ rwhp. so....

275-300/200% injectors
HPOP (srp1)
turbo (h2e or similar t4 turbo, probably better off callin irate or gillett, they have good prices)
head studs
valve springs
modded idm
reg return
exhaust
intake
gauges
live tuning

trans will need built if an auto, clutch if a manual, and you better be able to row gears

sorry i dont do sigs, have them blocked.



bottom line, you need a LOT of money.
 

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550 crank is roughly 440 rwhp. in order to beat her you'll need more hp and more traction. probably 600+ rwhp. so....

275-300/200% injectors
HPOP (srp1)
turbo (h2e or similar t4 turbo, probably better off callin irate or gillett, they have good prices)
head studs
valve springs
modded idm
reg return
exhaust
intake
gauges
live tuning

trans will need built if an auto, clutch if a manual, and you better be able to row gears

sorry i dont do sigs, have them blocked.



bottom line, you need a LOT of money.
agreed, minus the h2e think they are only good for 500ish. Add:
full fuel system
meth injection (to keep it cool)
upgraded rods (stock forged only good to 550)
fire ringed head
.... long list...
 

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agreed, minus the h2e think they are only good for 500ish. Add:
full fuel system
meth injection (to keep it cool)
upgraded rods (stock forged only good to 550)
fire ringed head
.... long list...
That why i said call irate, a s366 should be closer to operating range IIRC.

imo all regulated returns should be full fuel, no sense in half azzing it :hehe:
Meth not necessary in a race situation, can be dialed back with the chip for DD.

Forged rods are good to WAY over 550 hp. Pretty sure Jelich hit 996 on fuel only and a stock bottom end, waiting for a confirmation on that.

Really, 600 is definately managable on a stock bottom end. built would be nice, but if you're gonna fire ring it and upgrade rods, you might a well do a girdle and main studs, as well as a partial fill.
 

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That why i said call irate, a s366 should be closer to operating range IIRC.

imo all regulated returns should be full fuel, no sense in half azzing it :hehe:
Meth not necessary in a race situation, can be dialed back with the chip for DD.

Forged rods are good to WAY over 550 hp. Pretty sure Jelich hit 996 on fuel only and a stock bottom end, waiting for a confirmation on that.

Really, 600 is definately managable on a stock bottom end. built would be nice, but if you're gonna fire ring it and upgrade rods, you might a well do a girdle and main studs, as well as a partial fill.
That is a HUGE number on a stock bottom end... That would be some BA tuning
 

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That is a HUGE number on a stock bottom end... That would be some BA tuning
like i said, i'm trying to confirm that, but i'm 95% sure it's true. forged rods are far more forgiving than PMR's and can take way more abuse than some would think. And like you alluded to, it's all in the tuning. Thats why I recommended live tuning, as I would want a good tuner to get their hands on the truck and get everything as close to perfect as possible.
 

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a street driven 600 hp 7.3 would be a monster, and im sure a pain in the *** to keep together
 

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a street driven 600 hp 7.3 would be a monster, and im sure a pain in the *** to keep together
not really. the truck will act like a stock truck until you turn up the chip and mash the go pedal. all in electronically controlled injection :nod:
 

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What will it take to beat here? About $30k, give or take a few.
 

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I wouldn't think 30k, maybe more like 15k
15k seems about right. But I don't know how happy the motor would be at that power level stock... As said before by others before, live tuning would be best here.
trans 5300
turbo 2100
studs 600
springs 100
fuel system 800
injectors 1800
tuning 600
hpop 700
heads resurfaced 1000
upgraded intercooler 1300

Plus all the odds and ends stuff..
Plus labor if paying for it to be done, or plus beer and a pals help if your gonna tackle it

Im sure there is more I'm missing, just throwing some stuff together to give you an idea
 

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Not that it can't be done, but it's like trying to convert a sparrow into a bald eagle... or vice versa... if you want a drag truck, as much as I love my 7.3's, do a single cab/short bed conversion on a 6.0 and do the mods needed to that... or even a 6.4/6.7... more 'go fast' potential, though not the 'last forever' as a work horse you'd get from the 7.3... just not an apples to apples comparison when going up against a mustang with a 7.3. But you could haul that mustang across the country, along with 3 more like it at the same time... let's see the mustang do that!
 

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His mom's Mustang does 0-60 in 4 seconds (flat), and runs the quarter in 12.2...

I don't know where you're getting $700 for a HPOP, but I'd want at least a Stealth Stage 2 ($2400), or a Stage 3 ($3500)...
 

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His mom's Mustang does 0-60 in 4 seconds (flat), and runs the quarter in 12.2...

I don't know where you're getting $700 for a HPOP, but I'd want at least a Stealth Stage 2 ($2400), or a Stage 3 ($3500)...
what for, srp1 is more than enough for almost any injector out there. I never said he would beat it, the previous posts were for 500-600 hp "theoretical build"
 
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