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I just got a 2005 f250 king ranch turbo 6.0L. I haven't done much modifications before I wanna start doing so. I want to put in a new air take but I wasn't sure if I should cold air or ram or what and what brand would and filter has the best efficiency

Thanks in advance
 

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No need to waste money on one. The stock filter is good for up to 500hp and filters better then anything else
 

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S&b, Airaid, or AFE are all good air iintakes to run. I have a drop in airiad. They work.
 

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do a S&B if your not to hot on maintenance with the oil filters. if you dont keep up with cleaning and oiling then those filters will kill a turbo
 

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I just got a 2005 f250 king ranch turbo 6.0L. I haven't done much modifications before I wanna start doing so. I want to put in a new air take but I wasn't sure if I should cold air or ram or what and what brand would and filter has the best efficiency

Thanks in advance
:ORG welcome:

If you use the search engine for the org, then you will see that this subject has been beat in to the ground over and OVER!

:bdh:
 

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OEM air filter will hold over 1400+ grams of dust and dirt before it's clogged. S&B filters will clog after 200+ grams. More maintenance, less flow in the long run.

This info is quite clear and found in the S&B provided ISO 9000 testing report. It's a nice to twist reality to make sales.
 

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Personally I hate the filters that you hafta oil. I have a AFE stage II with a dry filter. Matt at CED makes some nice intakes.
 

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I run air raid . its easy to install and works great . I also run the air raid pre filter , looks cool and saves from washing the filter all the time
 

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OEM air filter will hold over 1400+ grams of dust and dirt before it's clogged. S&B filters will clog after 200+ grams. More maintenance, less flow in the long run.

This info is quite clear and found in the S&B provided ISO 9000 testing report. It's a nice to twist reality to make sales.
Their test did prove the oe filter filters better but it also proved the s&b flows more air. The statement about the stock filter being good up to 500hp is misleading because it really limits you to about 500hp. There are guys out there with dyno sheets to show that the s&b filter got them to and above 500hp. Where the oe was holding them back. One that I read but didn't book mark so I can't provide a link was the highest hp he could achieve was in the mid 400's but then changed to an aftermarket cai and broke 500hp. So yes you will have to clean it frequently and no it won't filter quite as good as factory but no matter what hp level you are at the cai will help make more power.
 

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I will admit you can't beat the stock filter hands down for filtering air. But when I can throw a brand new ford filter in and have my billet Pmax suck the gauge down to about 25% clogged theirs apparent restriction going on. When I do long runs and go to the beach I use the stock filter mainly due to sand and the fact I'm not really worried about top end flow. But for DD around here I'll stick with my Banks filter setup.
 

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Their test did prove the oe filter filters better but it also proved the s&b flows more air. The statement about the stock filter being good up to 500hp is misleading because it really limits you to about 500hp. There are guys out there with dyno sheets to show that the s&b filter got them to and above 500hp. Where the oe was holding them back. One that I read but didn't book mark so I can't provide a link was the highest hp he could achieve was in the mid 400's but then changed to an aftermarket cai and broke 500hp. So yes you will have to clean it frequently and no it won't filter quite as good as factory but no matter what hp level you are at the cai will help make more power.
Sure it flows more with both being brand new filters. When they have been running for miles the S&B is limiting flow. It's pretty easy to see 200 grams clogs one filter, 1400 grams clogs another. When the latter has 200 grams of dust it's still flowing MORE then the prior which is now clogged with the same 200 grams.
 

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I will admit you can't beat the stock filter hands down for filtering air. But when I can throw a brand new ford filter in and have my billet Pmax suck the gauge down to about 25% clogged theirs apparent restriction going on. When I do long runs and go to the beach I use the stock filter mainly due to sand and the fact I'm not really worried about top end flow. But for DD around here I'll stick with my Banks filter setup.

I need to check my filter minder plus throw on a new filter.
 

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I don't think the stock intake/filter is good to 500hp...more like 450. To make 500hp you're gonna need injectors and a turbo. The stock intake isn't gonna flow enough air to be efficient I think. An aftermarket intake will have the ability to flow more air for a cleaner burn at 500hp with bigger injectors and turbo than using a stock intake IMO.
 

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Sure it flows more with both being brand new filters. When they have been running for miles the S&B is limiting flow. It's pretty easy to see 200 grams clogs one filter, 1400 grams clogs another. When the latter has 200 grams of dust it's still flowing MORE then the prior which is now clogged with the same 200 grams.
Copied from their iso test
During the test, the filter is loaded with dust until it reaches a terminal pressure drop increase of 10 inches of water (28”H2O for Heavy Duty Vehicles) across the filter element (please refer to the Average Environmental Conditions and Test Specifications at the bottom of the next page to verify the pressure drop utilized on this particular test).

So they loaded each filter with the amount of dust that it takes to be considered maximum capacity and then conducted the test. The stock filter holds more to be considered max capacity. The s&b cleanable filter was 38% more efficient at 615cfm which is about the max required by a stock 6.0. At 911 cfm it was nearly 40% more efficient. The 200grams does notmean tthat's the clogged point.
Here is the link to get to the iso test2003-07 Ford Powerstroke 6.0L S&B Filters Cold Air Intake Kit (Cleanable Filter)
 

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I can see we disagree about the content of the report. While it does show the flow is better at the 300+ scfm point what it doesn't show is how much media was added to cause that restriction. IF I added 100 grams to the S&B filter to reach that point, then added 600 grams to the OEM filter to reach the same point it's clear which filter is flowing more to me.

Does it take the OEM filter less time to clog?? Does the S&B require more maintenance to flow??

If we disagree then so be it. I'm not sold on aftermarket filters flowing more when it take significantly LESS media to clog their filter.
 

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IF I added 100 grams to the S&B filter to reach that point, then added 600 grams to the OEM filter to reach the same point it's clear which filter is flowing more to me.
The aftermarket filter out flows stock when clean and when both reach a capacity to cause a drop of 10" of h20. The factory filter has much more surface area so it requires more dust to cause that drop. I agree with you that I will need to clean my aftermarket more often but 200grams of dust is nearly half a pound and I don't think I have ever let any filter get that dirty.
 

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I've seen factory filters that looked like they had at least that much dust in them.

I'm debating the same thing in my head. I don't know if I'll go aftermarket or not yet...
 

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may be dual stock air filters or a larger powercore style donaldson aircleaner to mount down behind the front bumper to the side so they don't block the radiators?...i have a steel welded bumper so i have more options this way vs stock...
 

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Well I'm coming up on my 5k oil change and air filter cleaning. So for Hana's with zero restriction showing on the gauge I'm going to weigh the filter dirty and clean. Should be interesting.
 
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